So, I hit a HUGE pothole caused by some poor work by a construction crew. 2 1-week old rims on the right side were bent, one coilover was leaking fluid, car bumpsteers left when going straight, my e-brake brake light in the dash console stays lit when the car is cold and stopped, and I get a clicking noise from the rear left under moderate acceleration from a stop.

So, let's diagnose this....

1) Both rims have been fixed, rebalanced, and are basically good as new. Car is lowered about 1.5 inches on 18" rims. Running Zeal B6 coilovers with 10kg/mm springs.
2) My alignment was knocked out of line, but the rear has been fixed. The front still needs to be realigned, but the alignment guy didn't want to continue when he saw that my rear right coilover was blown and leaking fluid badly. A new coilover is getting flown in from Japan, so I'm running on a blown one right now.
3) My car "pushes" left when I go straight over a bumpy road. It's hard for me to tell if it's my front wheel turning, or a symptom of my right rear coilover being blown, but it feels as if a strong wind "pushes" the right side of my car. I'm thinking the right rear is dipping further than the other 3 corners, and the car wants to bounce left because of it.
4) My e-brake light in the dash console (the idiot light that says "BRAKE") stays lit when my car is cold, but goes off once I begin moving. I haven't had a chance to bleed the brake lines since the pothole disaster, but this only started happening since I hit the damn pothole. I have no idea what would cause this. Brakes feel fine, ebrake works fine.
5) I'm now getting a clicking noise that sounds like it's coming from the rear left when I accelerate from a stop. Slow acceleration will not cause the noise, but moderate accelleration will. It's not a clicking that is in time with the wheel turning, like as if someone held a stick against the spokes of my rims, it's more of a random pattern, and it varies in volume. I was thinking this was either my left rear axle or the diff. I could probably test the diff my trying a clutch dump to see if I leave one tire mark or two, but I'm hesitant to given the state of my car.

Ugh. So, what's busted?

 

Art,

1 - First off, running that busted shock is a definite no no. It may further damage any components that are already damaged. You will need to check all 4 shocks to ensure they're in spec to the Zeal damper/rebound settings. B6s are tough but not designed to withstand such shock.

2 - Now you say that your alignment is knocked out, but I'll like to find out specifications on what's done when they "fix" it after/before you get your replacement Zeal shocks. There can be possibly other components damage, watch your camber. If that's an issue or they raise a flag, it's most likely something else is damage.

3 - That is definitely alignment related and also caused by 1 and 2 above if you eliminate a proper 4 wheel rebalance. This will be resolved when 1 and 2 have been resolved. I suggest not to continue driving it like I first mentioned.

 

Thanks SSS,
Everything you are saying makes perfect sense to me. It's a delicate balance of correct wheel balance, correctly tuned (and working) coilovers, unbent steering geometry, etc. I guess I won't know for sure the full extent of the damage until I at least get the new coilover in.


Any clue on why my brake light might be sticking on or what the clicking noise is?

 

Sorry to hear about this Art

For the clicking, check the hub and bearing along with the inner and outer CV.

Is there a vibration accompanying this clicking at speed? Is it more prominent when turning in either direction?

Check behind the rotors to see if there is anything rubbing, or if any of the components have shifted. Do you have any pics?

 

Could this incident have damaged a brake line? Check your brake fluid level. If you are leaking fluid, then you are using it up in the reservoir and when cold, the fluid has less volume and perhaps you are tripping the low level sensor (float).

 

What does that have to do with anything?

Anyway, you still haven't gotten a 4-wheel alignment so you can't complain about the pull to the left. I would pay close attention to your steering rod ends.



That makes no sense. So is it on when it's cold, and turns off when it's hot? Or is it on when you're not moving, and turns off when you've pulled away?

 

Why, it means that none of this is my fault, of course!


When my car is cold, the brake light will come on as I am nearing a complete stop or at a complete stop. As the car warms up, the light will not come on anymore. Strange, I agree. xviper has offered the only semi-logical explanation so far. I will check the levels / lines this weekend.

Asura, I'll snap some pics this weekend.