Hondata intake gasket
I would expect to see a gain on the dyno before and after, but only a few HP, and assuming the runs allowed the motor/coolant to warm up to operating temp. The insulator does a lot to keep the manifold cooler and prevent heat soak.
CMiS2k's was the first to use Loctite... but that seems to be the key. He's the only one to have NO coolant usage that I'm aware of. I have repeatedly torqued mine over the last year, perhaps once every 2-3 months (maybe every 1000 miles). I'm still using a very small amount of coolant, almost imperceptible. Not enough to have to refill it ever.
The key appears to be to egg out the mounting holes for the bracket (be sure to use it), torque to 20 ft-lbs, and use Loctite on the bolts. I'm not sure if the material I used had any impact on it (I'm pretty sure it's the same as Hondata's), but I doubt it.
Whoever installs this, be sure to tell the mechanic to torque inside-out on the bolts (the pattern), stepping up the torque (like torqueing a head), and using Loctite. Check the bolts before buttoning everything back up, the material does deform some.
FWIW, I'm running the insulator with the stock fan switch and thermo (switched back to stock) and the only other cooling/intake mods being a wrapped/insulated intake and box.
CMiS2k's was the first to use Loctite... but that seems to be the key. He's the only one to have NO coolant usage that I'm aware of. I have repeatedly torqued mine over the last year, perhaps once every 2-3 months (maybe every 1000 miles). I'm still using a very small amount of coolant, almost imperceptible. Not enough to have to refill it ever.
The key appears to be to egg out the mounting holes for the bracket (be sure to use it), torque to 20 ft-lbs, and use Loctite on the bolts. I'm not sure if the material I used had any impact on it (I'm pretty sure it's the same as Hondata's), but I doubt it.
Whoever installs this, be sure to tell the mechanic to torque inside-out on the bolts (the pattern), stepping up the torque (like torqueing a head), and using Loctite. Check the bolts before buttoning everything back up, the material does deform some.
FWIW, I'm running the insulator with the stock fan switch and thermo (switched back to stock) and the only other cooling/intake mods being a wrapped/insulated intake and box.
I did not used Locktite, and don't have any perceptible coolant leak; I would recommend using Locktite, however, and would have should this advice have been around longer. 
I have used all original mounting points, including the one to the alternator bracket. This might have kept vibrations down to a minimum and prevented bolts backing out.
I also used the Hondata washers which deformed quite a bit when I installed the bolts.

I have used all original mounting points, including the one to the alternator bracket. This might have kept vibrations down to a minimum and prevented bolts backing out.
I also used the Hondata washers which deformed quite a bit when I installed the bolts.
It is possible to get to them with a 3/8" ratchet, 2 6" extensions, a 3" extension, and a u-joint. You do need to be familiar with the fine art of Mechanic-Jitsu, but anyone who can operate these tools should be able to do it. Be patient.
I forgot to emphasize, also, that the washers are a waste. When I was trying an install on a Prelude, the washers deformed so badly that I don't believe they accomplished anything. All they did was prevent accurate torquing of the bolts, as far as I could tell. I'd recommend against them; the amount of heat communicated through them is relatively minor, as attested by my temp data (I did NOT use them on the S2000).
I forgot to emphasize, also, that the washers are a waste. When I was trying an install on a Prelude, the washers deformed so badly that I don't believe they accomplished anything. All they did was prevent accurate torquing of the bolts, as far as I could tell. I'd recommend against them; the amount of heat communicated through them is relatively minor, as attested by my temp data (I did NOT use them on the S2000).
[QUOTE]Originally posted by marcucci
[B]It is possible to get to them with a 3/8" ratchet, 2 6" extensions, a 3" extension, and a u-joint. You do need to be familiar with the fine art of Mechanic-Jitsu, but anyone who can operate these tools should be able to do it. Be patient.
[B]It is possible to get to them with a 3/8" ratchet, 2 6" extensions, a 3" extension, and a u-joint. You do need to be familiar with the fine art of Mechanic-Jitsu, but anyone who can operate these tools should be able to do it. Be patient.



