How to change your oil
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Joined: Dec 2005
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How to change your oil
I just want to say that I have never done this before and half of this is a way to check if I did it right and the other half is to show othere people how to do it if done correctly.
I am in no way a certified mechanic so everything you see here is intended to show you how I preformed the maintenance. Do this at your own risk. You accept full responsibility for all your actions when proceeding with this guide.
To change the oil in your s2000 you
I am in no way a certified mechanic so everything you see here is intended to show you how I preformed the maintenance. Do this at your own risk. You accept full responsibility for all your actions when proceeding with this guide.
To change the oil in your s2000 you
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,191
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From: Saint Augustine, FL
That is alot of work on your part for a DIY THAT ALREADY EXISTS.DIY Oil Change
There are a bunch of other ones written up in the "FAQ" section that you can duplicate as well. Take a look.......
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2005
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Well the reason why I wrote this up is because I couldn't find it in here. I did look but i guess it wasn't obvious enough for me. well now that if you search "how to change oil" you will be a little more likely to find the answer. =) thanks for reading it.
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Joined: Oct 2000
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From: Davie, FL
[QUOTE=Avernus,Jun 27 2006, 05:19 PM] 1. Towels------------------------------------------------------$5
1. 5.1 quarts of Oil 10w30 (I used Q full synthetic) --------$5.23(6)
2. An oil catcher-----------------------------------------------$4
3. 17 mm wrench--------------------------------------------$in your toolbox
4. Towels-----------------------------------------------------$5
5. Funnel (unless your really careful) -----------------------$3
6. Jack--------------------------------------------------------$used my neighbors
7. Jack stands-------------------------------------------------$30
8. New Oil Filter (Honda filter) --------------------------------$9
9. Towels------------------------------------------------------$5
=====================================
Total----------------------------------------------------------$56 +/- some if you don
1. 5.1 quarts of Oil 10w30 (I used Q full synthetic) --------$5.23(6)
2. An oil catcher-----------------------------------------------$4
3. 17 mm wrench--------------------------------------------$in your toolbox
4. Towels-----------------------------------------------------$5
5. Funnel (unless your really careful) -----------------------$3
6. Jack--------------------------------------------------------$used my neighbors
7. Jack stands-------------------------------------------------$30
8. New Oil Filter (Honda filter) --------------------------------$9
9. Towels------------------------------------------------------$5
=====================================
Total----------------------------------------------------------$56 +/- some if you don
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 37,305
Likes: 18
I commend anyone who does his own oil changes and I commend you for taking the time to write it up. I know the effort it takes to document this sort of stuff. 
A hint: The extent you go to to jack up the car is very time consuming and isn't really necessary. The only reason you need to jack up the car is to get the drain plug off, so jacking it up is only a momentary thing. Some guys can even remove the drain plug from above and not ever jack the car up. As you found, putting it up on a pair of jackstands required you to jack up the rear to make the car more level so the drain goes better. Check out my thread (in the FAQs) to see how the jacking can be as quick and painless as possible.
A low profile drain pan will aid in this matter greatly. I can see why you needed to have the car raised in order to get that pan under there.
BTW, absolutely gorgeous garage floor you've got there.
A hint: The extent you go to to jack up the car is very time consuming and isn't really necessary. The only reason you need to jack up the car is to get the drain plug off, so jacking it up is only a momentary thing. Some guys can even remove the drain plug from above and not ever jack the car up. As you found, putting it up on a pair of jackstands required you to jack up the rear to make the car more level so the drain goes better. Check out my thread (in the FAQs) to see how the jacking can be as quick and painless as possible.
A low profile drain pan will aid in this matter greatly. I can see why you needed to have the car raised in order to get that pan under there.
BTW, absolutely gorgeous garage floor you've got there.
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 36,017
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From: Queen City, NC
jacking the rear of the car is certainkly a novel approach...never thought of that before.
I just jack one side of the car up, get my pan under there, get the drain going, and drop the car back down to do an extended drain. Jacking the car up twice and sliding a jack stand under twice is still less work than getting the whole car off the ground.
I just jack one side of the car up, get my pan under there, get the drain going, and drop the car back down to do an extended drain. Jacking the car up twice and sliding a jack stand under twice is still less work than getting the whole car off the ground.
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Seabrook, MD
Originally Posted by CoralDoc,Jun 28 2006, 03:56 AM
1. Yes, you want the car level when draining and filling the oil. I place a level on the door sill to check this.
