How hard is it to remove and replace the oil pan?
Does it require anything gnarly like hoisting the motor a few inches, or removing the header? I want the extra insurance a baffled Mugen or Spoon pan for my next couple track days. Just trying to plan it amongst all the other work that still needs to be done.
TIA!
TIA!
None of the gnarly procedures listed are required. Basically removing many bolts and the two bolts of the air conditioning unit that go into the pan. While you're at it, consider swapping out the oil bolts?
Does anyone know if the new oil bolts officially supercede the old ones? Without a TSB in the US and UL's observation of the '02's extra power (and hence a potential performance advantage) these parts may not be legal in SoloII stock. With a couple years left on the warranty I'm not sweating it too bad. I may drive fast but my take on this is that it requires prolonged 6th gear VTEC-speed (110+) cruising for the issue to arise.
OTOH, my dealer is pretty cool, maybe they'd do the bolts for free. Then they could swap out the pan for me at no charge...hmmm...
OTOH, my dealer is pretty cool, maybe they'd do the bolts for free. Then they could swap out the pan for me at no charge...hmmm...
The new oil banjo bolts are an upgrade, not a performance change. They should not change any classifications. As for the oil pan baffle, there is a fairly large amount of fabrication required to do a self install of a baffle. Speed requires a oil pan for modification. You might be better off buying a already baffled pan.
Originally posted by FSures
The new oil banjo bolts are an upgrade, not a performance change. They should not change any classifications. As for the oil pan baffle, there is a fairly large amount of fabrication required to do a self install of a baffle. Speed requires a oil pan for modification. You might be better off buying a already baffled pan.
The new oil banjo bolts are an upgrade, not a performance change. They should not change any classifications. As for the oil pan baffle, there is a fairly large amount of fabrication required to do a self install of a baffle. Speed requires a oil pan for modification. You might be better off buying a already baffled pan.
Baffled pans aren't that expensive in the grand scheme of things, and not really any more than having somebody reputable modify the stock pan. Plus by having two I can still go back to stock, which for me is a fundamental requirement.
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The new bolts supercede the old.. all cars have them now and the old bolts are no longer available. I doubt there is any performance advantage although there is a durability / reliability advantage. It is a relatively easy swap covered in detail in other threads.
yes, the bolts were superceded by the new ones (although it doesn't say that anymore in the parts listing for our car available at dealerships). The whole bottom end (short block) has been given a new part #, suspected of the bolt change, otherwise internals are same (pistons, rods, crank). Last I checked, UL suspected the increase of power due to the ECU, but testing was still pending on that. If I were you, I'd swap out those bolts while you have the pan dropped and you'll have the added safety of having an updated part in there that was obviously replaced due to some lubrication reason that was never revealed by honda. It's not a performance upgrade, to be disqualified for auto-x reasons based on the bolts is ubsurd.
BTW, to order the mugen, spoon, J's baffled pans...they require a core deposit. It's not very hard to get baffling made for, mind you have someone available to do it.
After studying the shape of the pan and the way the engine sits while hard cornering, it's safe to say that the baffling keeps oil from getting to the crank as opposed to keeping a supply of oil to the pickup. Next time you have a chance with the pan dropped or have a spare pan handy, you'll see what I mean. I believe there is no problem of supplying oil to the pickup while high G corners.
cheers,
-ardy
BTW, to order the mugen, spoon, J's baffled pans...they require a core deposit. It's not very hard to get baffling made for, mind you have someone available to do it.
After studying the shape of the pan and the way the engine sits while hard cornering, it's safe to say that the baffling keeps oil from getting to the crank as opposed to keeping a supply of oil to the pickup. Next time you have a chance with the pan dropped or have a spare pan handy, you'll see what I mean. I believe there is no problem of supplying oil to the pickup while high G corners. cheers,
-ardy








