You can also unbolt the upper control arm instead of popping the ball joint. I went that route when I swapped my diff, but putting one of left-rear bolts back in was a REAL pain because the spring ended up directly in line with the hole the bolt was supposed to go in. I had to compress the spring until I could get the bolt in. That and stripping 2 of the hex-headed driveshaft bolts were the only real problems I had.

 

I have seen reports here of someone removing the diff WITHOUT popping the ball joint OR doing anything with the suspension. Once the diff is unbolt and can be moved side to side freely, there is enough lateral play in the CV joints that you can slip the inner CV end pin out of the diff one side at a time.

 

thats pretty cool, but no neat airhammer noises accompanied by tim allen like grunting.

 

I've used an air chisel at work for extricating trapped people out of crashed cars. I imagine this is similar to your device. I know what you mean. The noise and vibration is powerfully intoxicating. And the "damage" it can do to a car is spectacular.

 

Isn't that similar to a gear/steering wheel puller?

 

Not sure. I've seen steering wheel pullers and they have a kind of bracket that you can run bolts into the wheel to yank on it.

 

Also if you unmount the charcoal canister and remove one of each of the front diff mounts bolts, and loosen the other. It slips right in and out. I have it down to an hour on a lift now.

 

Oh, I forgot. I used Xvipers thread to pull mine the very first time. I am a nerd by trade, but I am mechanical and it was a piece of cake. It is heavy so you will need help with that. You can do it.

 

Naw. I did mine with the ass end of the car up on jackstands. I laid on my back and benchpressed the thing on and off my chest. Mind you, I had to lay there for about 1/2 an hour and take a nap so I could rest up to get the thing off my chest.

 

i just used a car jack to lower and raise my diff