Hi, folks,

Well, to get into another club (The El Mirage 200mph Club, affectionaltely called the "Dirty 2's) we're finally going down the turbo road. Current record is 189, and NA my Bomber runs 192.5. So to get into a Blown class I need to have a, guess what? A blower!

The computer says I'll only need about 15% more power to push over 200mph in 1.3 miles. So I'm going with a T-6 turbo and need to do a quick and dirty install.

Soooo... does anyone make a little jobby thingie that I can use to punch a drain hole into my oil pan without taking the whole thing off and Mig welding on a fitting? -12 in size (about 3/4 inch) would be cool, and I'm told I can't use the drain plug as that would be bringing the oil in below surface level.

Actually have any of you drained oil back through the oil drain plug hole successfully?

Anyway, enquiring "minds" want to know.

Thanks,

Jim

 

- when you drill the hole shavings will get INTO the oil pan, thats why you have to take it off...
- or yea, you can try to use the oil drain threading real quick...

 

Look at the oil return fitting from the Comptech SC kit.

It just drains into the oil pan's drain hole..

replacing the drain plug with a fitting..

 

Thats not a good idea for a turbo. It needs to be above the oil level. You are going to have to drop the pan and weld in a fitting.

 

You can put in an adaptor plate between the engine and the oil filter to drain oil for the turbo and returns it back to this plate. This will prob reduce the oil pressure to your oil filter but since you are only using this engine for shortish race purpose I assume that your oil will be fresh and oil filtering is prob not your top priority.

 

GREAT idea, honda9krpm!

My kind of creativity. But why would your oil pressure drop? Unless of course you didn't put a restrictor in the line to keep the pressure up.

I started pre mounting everything last night and it turns out that the best place to mount the turbo is at the back of the motor, high above the transmission. The drain port is actually high enough to just barely drain down into the cam cover. And if I run the oil in from the bottom, it will easily drain to a fitting drilled into the back of the cover.

And I don't actually change the oil all season. After all, it's a stock motor and only gets maybe 200 miles of use in an entire season.

All the best, (and thanks!)

Jim

 

sorry I wasn't thinking to hard when I typed as it's the weekend over here
The oil pressure at the turbo may increase because you are adding more resistance to the oil flow when you add the turbo. The oil pressure at the oil filter may be lowered due to (possible) decreased flow of oil from the turbo. This may means that the oil pressure at the filter may be lower than before. This is just some basic flow vs pressure theory, as to how much this happen in real practice is another story.

I don't know your setup that well so I am not too sure if your location of oil return is ok though. You should keep in mind that the volume of oil flow through the turbo is large and your car MAY have more positive cam cover pressure with the turbo than NA. It would be difficult to predict what will happen to this oil flow from the cam cover. I suspect that you will have a lot of oil entering the intake plenum (incorrectly called "blowby" by lay people).
Some other issues are
-does excess oil affect the valve train function?
-is the valve cover rubber gasket adequate for this high oil temperature?

Just some food for thoughts.

 

has any one else tapped a block instead of an oil pan ?

 

He's not actually tapping the block(which is a really bad idea). Hes trying to tap the valve cover which would probably be fine as long as the turbo sits higher than the valve cover. This wont work in a regular S unless you cut a hole in your hood and run the turbo above your hood. Regular S2000 owners still need to tap the pan for a turbo.

 

Actually, tapping the block is the best way to do it. Here is how I'm doing it on the engine I'm currently building.