Hi all,

I was just replacing gaskets and O-rings for the V-tec solenoid and the TCT. I ran into a bit of confusion when trying to replace the two O-rings that go between the TCT and the cylinder head.

My 2001 shop manual shows removal of the TCT by taking the cover plate off and then compressing the TCT by threading a nut onto a bolt and inserting it into a maintenance hole. But when I took the cover plate off (and replaced the triangle shaped gasket) it wasn't clear how you could thread that bolt into the maintenance hole at all. The maintenance hole already had something in there with a slotted end. I did not try to use a flat head to rotate it at all. Also, I couldn't see any threads in the hole that a bolt could use to thread into.

See manual page here, step 24. here

What am I missing? And IF I successfully compress the timing chain tensioner, is it simply just unbolt it and replace the O-rings and bolt it back up to torque specs?

Thanks very much,
Lyndon

 

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/808...ent-or-repair/

Better pics and instructions.

You do not need to retract the tct for removal. Definitely retract for re-install though.








I've posted once but it didn't go through, so don't mind the dbl post.

 

Okay, thank you for that. From what I understand, step 23 in the manual calls the existing bolt a "nozzle" while the DIY calls it an "oil bolt", and you can remove this oil bolt with a short flat head while the TCT is still mounted to the engine without causing any problems, and then use a bolt/nut/washer to make sure the TCT is compressed before removing it from the engine for the O-ring replacement.

But...are you saying that its an unnecessary step to remove the oil bolt if you are removing the TCT just to change the O-rings? Is it okay to just leave the oil bolt in there and remove the TCT assembly? I would be afraid of the TCT piston shooting out into the engine.

Cheers,
Lyndon

 

Okay, I just read the TCT re-installation section of the shop manual (6-48). Essentially it tells you to...

1) In a soft vise, compress the TCT using the bolt/nut until you can re-insert the set-pin.
2) Re-install the "oil bolt" and TCT cover
3) Re-install the TCT and release the set pin through the maintenance hole in the front of the engine.

Hopefully my oil leak is already gone, because that's a bit of a PITA and requires purchase of a set-pin, and new washer for the maintenance hole.

If I got this wrong and I can change the O-rings without all that hassle, please let me know.

 

You don't need to buy a set pin, you can use a paper clip, it doesn't take a lot of force to hold in the piston. Yes you remove the oil bolt and use an 8mm bolt .50 thread pitch and screw it into the tensioner with a wing nut or nut and washer. Tighten the wingnut/nut to put tension and turn the bolt to retract the piston. Then pull out the TCT. After you replace the O-rings, compress the piston all the way, and use a paper clip or something to pin it in. Then open the maintenance hole and with a pair of needle nose pliers grab tight and pull the clip out. You will need to cut the paper clip because if it's too big you won't be able to insert the TCT.

Also mind which side you stick in the pin because you won't be able to grab it if it's on the wrong side.

You can also install without pin and without taking off the maintenance cover. You can use vice grips to hold the bolt and pull on it, then undo the nut/wingnut by hand, and then removing the bolt after the piston has extended.

If your TCT is still leaking I'd check the VTEC solenoid, hopefully it's the gasket that mates to the block that is leaking and not the top triangle.

 

Can you elaborate a bit on that? When does the oil pin go back in then? Are you pulling on the bolt while you attach the TCT to the engine, then loosening the nut/bolt and then re-inserting the oil pin and cover?

Thanks so much for the clarity.

Cheers,
Lyndon

 

You compress the piston of the TCT by first installing the bolt and nut(thread in the bolt all the way), then turning the piston until it clears the pin-in hole on the edge of the tensioner, then tighten the nut so the piston stays in the retracted position. It's easier if you have it on a vice but you can do it by standing the tensioner upright and pressing down and turning the piston at the same time. Then put the pin in, or do it without the pin method. If you do pin in method, your remove the bolt and nut after you've installed the pin then install the oil bolt. If you do the non pin method, you put in the TCT into the head with the bolt and nut and the piston fully retracted, then you pull on the bolt and undo the nut, then remove the bolt and screw in the oil bolt with a screwdriver.

In both methods you bolt in the TCT before you unleash the piston, then bolt on the service cover.

 

i'd quit reading that manual and just follow the stickie haha, it's clear as day..

a lot of the times service manuals complicate things that are super simple. if you take that maintenance hex head out you can just pry (gently!!!) the tct out from there, once you have the 2 10mm bolts off. no need to compress for removal.

 

The manual is pretty good. It was written by engineers, theoretically it's the 'correct' way to do things. However the manual is based on the theoretical way that all the components fit together, as far as loading tolerances of the bolts and mating surfaces. In practice however you realize that reality differs from theoretical understanding, and although theoretical knowledge is a good approximation, it will never coincide perfectly with reality. That's why some torque values in the manual are off, and some procedures are unnecessary and pointless to techs that have a fair bit of experience with this car.

 

Yeah, that's what I was getting at. Believe me, I always consult my service manual. Though 80% of the time I find out easier ways of doing it, haha.