ok, for some reason, this is disconnected and i think its missing something in order to fit back in the hole in the head. Any ideas of what i need

ALso, my engine coolant is very low. I have engine coolant that is 50/50 but its not the same as the one in the car. the one in the car is green and the coolant i have is orange. Can i still use it or not?

 

I'm pretty sure that just slots in.. It looks like your missing a rubber grommet/part on the rocker cover side..

 

DONT MIX THAT COOLANT!

go get coolant from your dealer

 

 

Also my engine oil level is dangerously low. Can i just top it off with new oil or is it absolutly neccassary to drain the old oil first. The oil level right now is half way from the bottom of the dipstick to the low point. so its way below low.

 

Don't use orange (dex-cool) coolant. The recommended coolant is Honda Type II. It comes premixed.

Top off the oil level. If you can't remember when you changed the oil last, get it changed.

You are missing a grommet for the PCV valve in the valve cover. Buy one at the dealer or find OEM parts source online.

 

Can i buy that coolant at like autozone or something.

also, what type of oil should i use. Brand and type.

 

Use Honda Type2 coolant only. Depending on what year S2000 you have, you may need to flush the system. Early S2000's came from the factory with Type1 Coolant. Do not mix type1 and type2 Coolant. Type2 Coolant comes premixed there is no need to add water. You will need two 1 gallon jugs(OL999-9011 x2). Type2 Coolant is Blue in color (from the jug). I'm pretty sure Type1 is always Green, however Type2 can be Green (my factory fill type2 was green) or Blue. Type2 is always Blue from the jug.

 

i have a year 2000 s2k.

 

You have type1 Coolant and the system requires flushing. I just did my Coolant on the 8th. I had green Type2 from the factory, so I just had to drain and refill. I also didn't pull the 61ft-lb block drain bolt. Billman250 say's it's not necessary to pull the block drain bolt. I think he said he has never seen anything more than about a tablespoon come out the block drain. Getting Coolant to run out the bleed cap at the firewall was a bitch though. I had the whole car up on stands, ended up lowering the rear only to get the coolant to flow to the firewall bypass bleedcap. Then I lowered the front leveling the car while I ran it with the rad cap off. I think I did ok, I have had a Scan-tool hooked up monitoring the ECT for about a 100 miles and everything seems nominal.

Hey Billman250 or Slows2k, When the engine is cold the cooling system sucks coolant from the resivoir into the system. When the cooling system is hot it spits coolant overflow into the resivoir. Is this right? With the engine ice cold (overnight) how much coolant should be in the resivoir? To the MIN line? To the MAX line? Or in between MIN and MAX? I have it just a hair (1/4" to 1/2") over MIN line with the engine ice cold right now. Also, I do believe I got most of if not all the air out of the system. I watched the temps and put about a 100 miles on it. Would that effectively purge any remaining air from the system? Thanks.

EDIT: There is a write up on the Coolant flush in the DIY FAQ section. I think the only tools I used were a funnel, 10quart catch pan, a pair of pliers (bleed cap spring clip), 3/8 drive ratchet with 6" extension and a 12mm 6pt. socket (engine bleed bolt) (7.2ft-lbs don't over torque), and a jack and jack stands. You may not need to put the car up on stands. My catch pan isn't very low profile, and I was doing the oil/oil filter and the tranny and diff fluid as well.