I've not heard of JB weld so can't comment. Just remember you can have as much as 85 psi in the oil system on this car. I hope this JB stuff holds. Good Luck!

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by xviper
[B]
I've not heard of JB weld so can't comment.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by xviper
[B]
I've not heard of JB weld so can't comment.

 

JB Weld will probably work, But you want to set it up initially with one of the old oil bolts (with a release agent on it) until the JB is hard. Then replace the old bolt with the new one. Otherwise you will probably clog up the oil passages in the bolt.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by God
[B]
What is the normal temp of the oil exactly?

Resistant to 500

 

I talked to CoralDoc, a s2ki member, he had an incident like this with a Type R motor and says that loctite 290 on the remaining threads would be sufficient to hold the bolt there, considering that there only need to be 12lbs/ft on the bolt. I'm going to try that method tonight. Wish me luck, if I lose cylinder #3 then I guess it didn't work. Also, I forgot to mention the car is turboed.

 

For the benefit of anyone that is working on their car, I always like to start a screw or bolt by hand. I'm not very likely to cross thread anything by hand. You can't always tell if you are using a tool to start the bolt, if it's started correctly or not. Once I'm convinced that it's started OK, then I will use a wrench to tighten it.

I would be very tempted to have the existing hole welded and retapped, myself. Not just anyone can weld aluminum, however.

Good luck,
Bob

 

Re: the temp of the oil.
Is this the only consideration here? The oil may be that temp when measured wherever it is measured but the place where the oiljet bolt is installed has to contend with the temperature of the engine block that is in close proximity to the combustion chamber. I'm somewhat curious as to how hot that metal gets as that part acts as a heat sink to pull away the heat and impart it to the coolant and oil.

 

It this case it was not really possible to reach these bolts by hand. The tapped hole is pretty deep in the block, so if you can't reach it by hand you can be pretty sure that welding it is not possible.. additionally it is tapped into an oil passage so even under the best of conditions welding may not be an option.

 

I agree. Another trick that I was taught in school was to put the bolt in the hole and then slowly turn the bolt as if you were losening it while gently applying pressure like you are trying to force the bolt in the hole (it's kind of difficult to explain). As you are turing you will feel the bolt "drop" into position when the last thread on the bolt falls off of the last thread in the hole. The bolt and hole threads are now aligned and you can go to town. This is one way to prevent stripping the threads/cross-threading when re-installing bolts or screws (works very well for wood screws where you don't want to trash the old threads in the wood).

BTW there are inserts that you can buy to make up the stripped threads. I'm not sure how small of a size they make them in but where I work when we strip out threads they use a heli-coil (brand name) insert to repair the threads. You drill and tap the hole slightly larger than its original size and then you insert this threaded coil (looks like a spring) into the hole and thread the bolt in the insert. They are very strong and would probably be overkill in a case like this. But it would be better than trying to weld repair the hole or buying a new block.

Gabe