Huge oil bolt problem!!
07-07-2003, 05:47 PM
#1
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Huge oil bolt problem!!
I was changing the oil bolts to the new updated oil bolts, as i was screwing in the new oil bolts, I didn't aligning the squirter that the bolt shoots oil through in the crown correctly, and the bolt ended up stripping the thread in the block. What can I do? I thought about a helical insert into the block but the thread is fine thead and I don't know if they make an insert like that, can't rethread the hole or the new hole would be to big for the oil bolt, i don't want to change the whole block because the thread is just strip out but I don't know any alternatives that would work.
Please any advice would help.
Please any advice would help.
07-07-2003, 08:58 PM
#2
I am sorry that I cannot offer you any solid relief. This may very well end up being an extremely expensive mistake. Are you certain that it is the thread in the block that has stripped and not just the thread on the bolt? As you said, this thread is very fine and as far as I can tell, is tapped right into the block itself. The solutions may be very limited but I will offer you the only ones that comes to my mind.............................
Take one of your oil bolts (an old one will do) to a tool shop and get the exact size of thread in a thread tap. You might also find one that is specifically designed to "clean" up a cross threaded hole. You must take the chance (you have no other choice) that there is sufficient thread left in the block. Run that tap in an out till it feels that it is clean and has some bite. Clean up ALL the shavings that ensue. Make sure the bolt thread is GOOD. You might run a "die" on that thread too. Clean off all the oil in the hole and on the bolt with solvent and finally with methyl hydrate, allow to air dry several minutes. Find some high temp oil resistent gasket goo and put it on the bolt threads thinly and thoroughly, KEEPING THE GOO WELL AWAY FROM THE OIL ORIFICES. Very carefully install the bolt and oil jet (positioned precisely over its corresponding alignment pin). Now comes the test: Apply the proper torque to it. If it will take the torque without pulling out, you may be home free. Don't run the engine for about 24 hours to make good and sure the goo cures.
CAUTION AND WARNING: This is NO guaranty that this oil bolt will work as it should. You may wish to seek a professional machinist's help. Find out if it is possible to re-tap a larger hole, have a custom oil bolt made, enlarge the jet sprayer to accomodate the larger bolt. You won't have to go that much larger, maybe only 1/2 mm.
Had I known that a significant number of people were to do this change on their own in N. America, I would have done up a "How To" when I did mine with all the necessary pics and cautions.
07-08-2003, 12:06 AM
#3
Try what xviper suggests.
You can also try some sacrificial offerings to the usual deities. ( Alla, Buddah, God, Ganesh and Yoda)
There are some thread repair epoxies that can be used to essentially glue back the lost material. Generally with these you clean up the hole really well ( acetone) paint the thread with a release agent then glue the whole lot together. The release agent allows the threaded part to be removed so any material behind it can be removed ( important when you want oil to go through the squirter). Try www.permatex.com
Your biggest challenge will be access and getting it clean.
Otherwise, you can remove the engine and have the hole TIG welded up and re-tapped. The bore adjacent to this will need to be checked as it may distort and need honing for an oversize piston. You can run one odd oversized piston if you balance it to suit the other pistons.
Good luck.
Speedracer.
You can also try some sacrificial offerings to the usual deities. ( Alla, Buddah, God, Ganesh and Yoda)
There are some thread repair epoxies that can be used to essentially glue back the lost material. Generally with these you clean up the hole really well ( acetone) paint the thread with a release agent then glue the whole lot together. The release agent allows the threaded part to be removed so any material behind it can be removed ( important when you want oil to go through the squirter). Try www.permatex.com
Your biggest challenge will be access and getting it clean.
Otherwise, you can remove the engine and have the hole TIG welded up and re-tapped. The bore adjacent to this will need to be checked as it may distort and need honing for an oversize piston. You can run one odd oversized piston if you balance it to suit the other pistons.
Good luck.
Speedracer.
07-08-2003, 09:50 AM
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You could always pick up a new oil pan... It shouldn't be TOO expensive, although I would imagine it's gonna be at least 100.. I think all of the retapping and custom oil bolt stuff might be at least that expensive.. You might just want to check with your local dealership how much an oil pan costs.
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07-08-2003, 12:06 PM
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Originally posted by ChrisD
You could always pick up a new oil pan... It shouldn't be TOO expensive, although I would imagine it's gonna be at least 100.. I think all of the retapping and custom oil bolt stuff might be at least that expensive.. You might just want to check with your local dealership how much an oil pan costs.
You could always pick up a new oil pan... It shouldn't be TOO expensive, although I would imagine it's gonna be at least 100.. I think all of the retapping and custom oil bolt stuff might be at least that expensive.. You might just want to check with your local dealership how much an oil pan costs.
