Huge oil bolt problem!!
07-08-2003, 06:53 PM
#22
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Originally posted by cdelena
It this case it was not really possible to reach these bolts by hand. The tapped hole is pretty deep in the block, so if you can't reach it by hand you can be pretty sure that welding it is not possible.. additionally it is tapped into an oil passage so even under the best of conditions welding may not be an option.
It this case it was not really possible to reach these bolts by hand. The tapped hole is pretty deep in the block, so if you can't reach it by hand you can be pretty sure that welding it is not possible.. additionally it is tapped into an oil passage so even under the best of conditions welding may not be an option.
07-08-2003, 07:35 PM
#24
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I agree completely that a helicoil is total overkill and it would probably be more trouble than it's worth to put one in. I just wanted to make this option known in case there is a grave concern than the whopping 12 ft-lbs of torque would be to much for any other solution. 
Gabe
Gabe
07-08-2003, 09:29 PM
#25
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The problem of stripping the thread was not thread the boil correctly but it was not aligning the pin in the squirter with the corresponding hole in the block which subsequently caused the stripping of the thread due to the squirt not being aligned correctly and then angling the bolt as the bolt was being tightened.
What I did was use the loctite 290 which has a heat rating of 300 degree farenheit. I would have used JB weld but there was fear that the JB weld would push back into the oil holes on the oil bolt. Also Coral doc says hes used it on an oil bolt on a Type R motor so I would assume that it could handle the temp in that motor it should be able to withstand the temp in ours.
What I did was use the loctite 290 which has a heat rating of 300 degree farenheit. I would have used JB weld but there was fear that the JB weld would push back into the oil holes on the oil bolt. Also Coral doc says hes used it on an oil bolt on a Type R motor so I would assume that it could handle the temp in that motor it should be able to withstand the temp in ours.
07-08-2003, 09:34 PM
#26
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xviper when you do the DIY on this please include the warning that not only does the bolt need to be threaded correctly but the oil jet itself has an alignment pin which needs to be aligned with the correct hole in the block next to the where the bolt is screwed in
07-09-2003, 04:36 AM
#27
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I'm keeping my fingers crossed for you. As Xviper mentioned, the correct repair is to replace the block, or at least pull it and disassemble it to gain better access to the damaged area. However, this is a costly and time consuming option.
As an alternative, a local machine shop (Redline Automotive), that has experience with this issue on Integra Type R motors, recommended the use of Loctite 290 in this application. They specifically recommended against JB Weld.
One trick that may help is to constrict the diameter of the opening of the hole in the block that the oil bolt inserts into. This can be done with a spring loaded pin-punch. Locate the pin punch on the surface that the oil jet sits upon, about 1-2mm from the edge and push. When done correctly this will deform the aluminum, moving some material inward towards the center of the hole. Do this all around the opening (about 10 locations) and it will reduce the diameter of the hole, hopefully allowing some additional bite for the oil bolt.
Before proceding, it is essential that the remaining threads in the block and the oil bolt threads are absolutely clean. Also be very careful not to get any of the thread locker compound into the orifice of the oil bolt.
The suggested procedure is to completely clean the threads by allowing several days for the oil to mostly drain out and then applying cleaning agents. Then apply the threadlocker to the block and to the oil bolt. You may need to use thin needle-nose pliers to get the threadlocker tube far enough up into the block. Alternatively, apply the threadlocker to a thin piece of wood (like a chopstick) and transfer it into the hole in the block. CAREFULLY thread the oil bolt into place by hand, making sure the bolt goes in correctly with the oil jet aligned correctly on the pin. It will not be possible to correctly torque the bolt, you're counting on the threadlocker to prevent the bolt from unscrewing. Screw the bolt in as tight as you dare, recognizing that overtightening will likely strip out more good metal. Then add additional threadlocker to the completed assembly. It is very thin and will wick into the assembly. Allow sufficient cure time and then put everthing back together.
I've seen a repair done exactly like this work, the engine now has 10k miles on it since the repair, but I make no guarantees. The one thing working in your favor is that this assembly is not stressed very much.
If the repair does not work and the oil bolt falls out, it was reported to me that the oil pressure will drop significantly and the oil light should come on.
Best of luck with this, let us know how it works out.
As an alternative, a local machine shop (Redline Automotive), that has experience with this issue on Integra Type R motors, recommended the use of Loctite 290 in this application. They specifically recommended against JB Weld.
One trick that may help is to constrict the diameter of the opening of the hole in the block that the oil bolt inserts into. This can be done with a spring loaded pin-punch. Locate the pin punch on the surface that the oil jet sits upon, about 1-2mm from the edge and push. When done correctly this will deform the aluminum, moving some material inward towards the center of the hole. Do this all around the opening (about 10 locations) and it will reduce the diameter of the hole, hopefully allowing some additional bite for the oil bolt.
Before proceding, it is essential that the remaining threads in the block and the oil bolt threads are absolutely clean. Also be very careful not to get any of the thread locker compound into the orifice of the oil bolt.
The suggested procedure is to completely clean the threads by allowing several days for the oil to mostly drain out and then applying cleaning agents. Then apply the threadlocker to the block and to the oil bolt. You may need to use thin needle-nose pliers to get the threadlocker tube far enough up into the block. Alternatively, apply the threadlocker to a thin piece of wood (like a chopstick) and transfer it into the hole in the block. CAREFULLY thread the oil bolt into place by hand, making sure the bolt goes in correctly with the oil jet aligned correctly on the pin. It will not be possible to correctly torque the bolt, you're counting on the threadlocker to prevent the bolt from unscrewing. Screw the bolt in as tight as you dare, recognizing that overtightening will likely strip out more good metal. Then add additional threadlocker to the completed assembly. It is very thin and will wick into the assembly. Allow sufficient cure time and then put everthing back together.
I've seen a repair done exactly like this work, the engine now has 10k miles on it since the repair, but I make no guarantees. The one thing working in your favor is that this assembly is not stressed very much.
If the repair does not work and the oil bolt falls out, it was reported to me that the oil pressure will drop significantly and the oil light should come on.
Best of luck with this, let us know how it works out.
07-09-2003, 08:36 PM
#28
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I'm going FI and have an '02 that is pre-bolt-update. What kind of risk should I expect by not doing the update? Any early-warning indicators?
Has anyone negotiated Honda for a deal on this?
Has anyone negotiated Honda for a deal on this?
07-11-2003, 07:06 PM
#30
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Good luck KYS
I am going to do this replacement/upgrade when the Vortech get here.
You certainly have scared the hell out of me.
I hope my hand does not shake tooo much when I do this task soon
Good luck!
I am going to do this replacement/upgrade when the Vortech get here.
You certainly have scared the hell out of me.
I hope my hand does not shake tooo much when I do this task soon
Good luck!