Hi,

I have seen the DIYs on the wheel hub and bearing replacement as well as the inner CV joint swap. I know these are some recommended maintenance items. My problem is I just don't understand how everything works...

So if I bought a whole new assembly (http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...e&apwidO6X17ab) would this would take care of any CV joint issues? In other words, can I just replace them rather than swap them left to right? At $100 apiece doesn't seem too bad. Since it looks like he takes out the whole assembly for his CV joint swap, this would not be any more labor to just replace the whole assembly, correct? Also, are these Driveshaft ones basically the same but can just withstand more hp? (http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/d...6-p-55695.html)

I am also trying to understand the whole wheel/hub replacement. I don't understand how the hub gets "pressed out" or "pressed in". Is there a whole new assembly to buy that doesn't require taking it to a machine shop?

Sorry I am kind of a newb to much DIY stuff but I would rather try and understand rather than just waste money taking it to the dealer. However, some people on here are pretty clever and recycle parts, etc...I would prefer to just replace since I am getting ready to mod my car and want to make sure maintenance is up to date.

 

Oh, link to the DIYs I was referring to:

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=223599

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=241367

 

Axles can be changed out directly, it will fix the pitting issues, since you are replacing the whole assy (CV cups inclusive). You'll need to remove the axle nut, remove the lower ball joint and 6 nuts to take out an axle. Both sides are similar process, make sure you don't mix up the axles as they are different lengths.

Nut sizes: 14mm
Axle Nut size: 36mm
Brake line Nut size: 10mm

Wheel bearings need to be pressed, so unless you have a pressing bench, you will not be able to do it safely. Bring it to a shop.

Peace.

 

None of those are recommended maintenance items. They are things to be done if specific problems develop.

You may or may not need a "pressing bench" to install a wheel bearing and hub.

 

My bad, Bench Press... LOL Excuse my bad english...

 

Agreed. Not something you should do "just because"

 

A far as I know, you can't buy the whole assembly already put together, and even if you could, that would mean you'd have to unnecessarily buy new knuckles along with the new hub and bearing. Each knuckle would cost more than the new hub and bearing combined.

In this parts diagram the wheel bearing is #36. It gets pressed into the knuckle which is the major part in this diagram. It is the part with the big circular opening. There are no bolts holding them together, just friction (To be precise, there is a clip holding the bearing in the knuckle, but nothing is holding the hub in the bearing). Those press fittings are basically the only thing really holding the wheels onto the rest of the car, so they are pretty tight. That's why you need (or at least are supposed to use) a hydraulic press. I've heard of people using things like sledge hammers, but there's no way in hell I'd do it that way.

Once the bearing is into the knuckle, the hub is then pressed into the inside of the bearing. The hub is part #2 from that first parts diagram. It's a little confusing from the drawings because they are not to scale, but the protruding part of the hub fits into the inner race of the wheel bearing.

I wouldn't replace these things unless you're actually having trouble with them. It's just a bunch of unnecessary hassle and money if they don't actually need replaced.

 

I apologize to you. I didn't notice the flag in your avatar. We likely are in a "you say tomato" I say 'tomaaahto" situation.

In US English (not the Queen's English) a "bench press" is a guy on his back on a bench pushing a weighted bar up towards the ceiling.

In the US, one would press a bearing into an upright with a "shop press", a "hydraulic press", or an "arbor press."

But the US isn't the whole world. So your English may be "spot on" in other English-speaking countries.

 

you can do it without removing the lower ball joint. if you don't have a ball joint separator you can just remove the two bolts on the upper a-arm. i had to do it before without access to one

 

Thanks guys! Those diagrams really did clear things up, that was perfect, thank you Top Gear. Also, thanks to the rest for the posts, it is good to know that they are not things I need to do. I just made a post earlier that I have 85K on the clock and was getting ready to do a build and wanted to know of things I should take care of before putting money into mods. I just got the impression that these couple things along with changing the timing chain tensioner were things I definitely should do. But if I can hold off then I will.