My plans are to try to always stick to N/A I feel like it's more reliable... Anyway I was think about a F22C: (head) bore, port & polish full supertech value tran, bisimoto cams/cam gears & ITB's. (If you noticed I missed anything please mention it)(I know I'm leaving out small to some key things)
Block:bore to 89mm, pistons @ 14.1, (I keep reading that striker kits tend to make engines unreliable) of course I would have it sleeved, crank balanced & micro polished, aluminum pulleys external water pump & external oil pump with a 8lbs flywheel. Running on a AEM series 2 plug & play ecu. Again: (I know I left out small maybe even big/key things out)(please note those things)
I'm looking for:
Advice
Ideas
What kind of power I maybe looking at
What kind of torque I maybe looking at
Fuel (hopefully E85 will cut it)
Again looking for tips, advice, other's experience etc....
2 last things PLEASE no trashing for this it's just a idea (I want N/A power before I go down easy street & boost it)(not trashing on boost it's just that I've been down that road & I'm looking for something new) & last thing this will be a summer weekend car. No rain No snow. If possible just dry summer days. Thank you

 

There's no point getting an F2*C head ported or polished unless you're FI with at least 700+ already to the wheels. The heads flow extremely well from the factory. I'd also leave the valvetrain stock, especially if you're going with an F22. Bone stock F engines have been proven to 600+, they'll certainly survive any N/a build as long as they're constructed and maintained properly.

Honestly if you want to keep it N/a without using a stroker kit I wouldn't even go through the trouble of sleeving the engine and dropping in higher compression pistons. Get your ITBs, a free-flowing exhaust with a good header, and then use FlashPro to tune. Use all the money that you save for more time on the track or just maintenance/other car upgrades.

Also, I'd highly advise getting a Puddymod differential with a higher gear ratio. That would really wake up the low end of the car, and the OEM differential on S2K's is known as the biggest weak point in the car. PM Puddydad on these forums and see if he can hook you up with a 4.44+ diff. Much better investment than sleeving the engine or anything like that I think.

93 octane would also definitely satisfy everything that's been mentioned so far, but E85 would allow for slightly more aggressive timing. Once again though, I don't think it's worth the hassle of tuning or swapping out the entire fuel system.

TL;DR: My advice if you're looking for an N/a build that's quick and reliable is to keep it simple as the F series engines are incredibly well engineered in stock form. Get the ITBs, header, exhaust, and higher gear ratio differential. Tune on Flashpro.

 

OP whats your budget? If NA, stroker kits are the way and the truth and the light if you are looking for power. Thing is, for it to be done right it won't be cheap.

 

I wouldn't say stroker motors are unreliable. I would say that rebuilt motors are unreliable, there have been people that have had issues with simple rebuilds.

If you're going to spend all that money anyways then you should really go for a stroker also. Lookup 06estukay's motor build if you want some ideas on a setup that's proven to make power