Four jack stands are nice to have. When it's time to do the transmission and differential fluids, it's nice to have the car up in the air and level. But you can work around this; one pair will get you by.

Many people who are just starting to acquire tools may need other things worse than they need the second pair of jack stands. If so, buy one pair and get a second pair later.

I own a floor jack that I can reach the front jacking point with, but if you don't, many people on this board say they drive the front wheels onto (2x6 or 2x8) lumber to raise the front end enough to get the jack under the car. I've never needed to do this, but it should work.

 

I put the jack stands under the frame rails behind the engine - the side areas are designed for a jack with a slot - jack stands tend to bend the sheet metal. My jack stands have polyurethane protectors.

I found a jack that will lift the front and is low enough to get under - it is pricey, but built to last. See the pic.

 

There are reinforced areas of the lip under the rocker panels that are strong enough to not bend when using jack stands oriented perpendicular to the ridge. I've done so numerous times, protecting the paint with carpet remnants (your urethane pads sound superior). The reinforced areas are much more robust than similar ridges on other cars. The reinforced sections begin about 4" behind the front wheel well and 1" in front of the rear wheel well. Look under your car and let us know what you think.

Those are excellent jacks and have been recommended in the past by other board members. They are heavy and expensive, though. I found a rebuilt Milwaukee jack that has a low enough saddle to fit under the front of the car (without a front spoiler) - I use this one at home. I use the aluminum Harbor Freight jack for swapping wheels at autocrosses and track events since it is light and portable.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by CoralDoc

 

WOW! Thanks for those links. McMaster.com is pretty comprehensive.