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I tried the ramp and jackstand approach and it works just fine. I resorted to jacking up the front of the car and pushing the ramps underneath the car, since they are a little difficult to drive up on. I also have the Rhino ramps and they clear the car OK, but like to scoot across the garage floor. Plus I've smoked the clutch trying to get up them.
I ultimately went out and bought four jack stands and that's what I use now. I like this approach the best.
I guess I'm a little worried that the car will drift backwards as soon as the rear wheels leave the ground, since the engine compression and emergency brake only activate the rear wheels
I only put mine up with all four wheels off when I really need it, but it is not necessary for any fluid changes.
The safe way to do it is 1) Make sure the parking brake is on tight, 2) get it up so you can get the jack under the front cross member by either a) using the jack to raise one side enough to slip in a stand, or b) drive onto ramps or something first, or c) use the OEM jack on one side. 3) jack the front of the car under the cross member and lower it on to jack stands, 4) then jack the rear of the car. NEVER raise the rear off of the ground or off jackstands if the front wheels are able to roll.. you WILL be sorry.
Jack up one side of the car, say the driver's side. Use two hydraulic jacks and lift reasonably evenly. Kick two rhino ramps under these two tires, then let the car down to sit on these ramps. Repeat for the passenger side.
I think I'm least "scared" to try this one. Looks like xviper tried something similar:
Well I made up my mind...
I tried the rhino ramp thing, and by the time I got the tires off the ground enough to kick under the ramps the jacks were at their limit. After having a beer and looking at how much the car was keeled over, I decided to not go to Wal-Mart and get another set. I put the car back down and thought to myself... How much money do I make? Enough to pay for somebody else to do this one item that is inconvenient? You bet! I could simply have the dealer change my tranny oil when I take it in for yearly inspection anyway.
So I'll have a professional install my exhaust too. I can change the motor oil and differential oil without even a jack, I should be pleased.
OK, got up this morning and was disappointed in myself for not giving the back-up-onto-rhino-ramps more of a chance. So I took the car for a spin, stopping by the Honda dealer for 2 quarts of MTF 08798-9016. When I got home, I left the car running and lined up the rhino ramps perfectly straight with the car and behind the rear wheels. With one smooth try, I went right up into position... no drama!
Here's a picture:
Aftewards I put the two hydraulic jacks at the front lift positions and leveled the car out enough to get the front wheels an inch off the ground.
Immediatly went about changing the transmission fluid using a jar and "mixmaster" syringe with hose from wal-mart (only shoots 2 oz at a time). It started to run out around 1.8 quarts, that's just what I wanted.
As for how dirty the oil coming out was? Not bad... but there was some tiny shavings that showed up in the bottom of the drain pan when I poured it for recycling. (However, one never knows how many of those shavings are from the crush washer.
Has anyone looked at the maintenance schedule for normal conditions? The transmission fluid isn't supposed to be changed until 120,000 miles. Even the severe schedule doesn't change it until 60,000 miles. Mine was more than ready to come out before 10,000 miles. I just didn't realize it until about 15,000 miles.
I can't imagine how the transmission would be shifting at 120,000 miles without changing the fluid.
Originally posted by boiler Destiny2002, I'm glad that it worked OK for you.
Has anyone looked at the maintenance schedule for normal conditions? The transmission fluid isn't supposed to be changed until 120,000 miles. Even the severe schedule doesn't change it until 60,000 miles. Mine was more than ready to come out before 10,000 miles. I just didn't realize it until about 15,000 miles.
I can't imagine how the transmission would be shifting at 120,000 miles without changing the fluid.
Bob
I'm looking at the Helm manual right now and here's what it says:
For MY2000 - for "severe" @30,000 miles/2 years; for "normal" @90,000 miles/6 years. (in these intervals thereafter)
For MY2001 - 1st change "severe" @60,000 miles/4 years. 1st change "normal" @120,000 miles/8 years.
I wonder why there's a difference from one model year to another.
Based on what I've seen, I believe 15,000 miles for the differential fluid and 30,000 for the transmission fluid is just right for *normal* service.
I just changed these things at 6700 miles. The differential fluid change didn't change the feel of the car, but what I pulled out was dark and had gooey texture.
But to my surprise changing the transmission fluid did make a difference, even though the oil coming out didn't look too bad. Feels like someone put a teflon coating on the gears, kinda hard to explain.
Think about it, your engine has a filter, but the tranny and differential don't. The tranny has a screen for large bits, and the differential has a magnet on the drain plug. Why shouldn't these service items have a reasonably aggressive change interval, especially since the largest complaints are about the drivetrain of the S2000?