J's 4.44 gear set.
08-28-2002, 02:04 PM
#21
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xviper
Be sure you have all the tools and thoroughly understand how the rear end works before you pull it apart. Make sure your gear pattern is perfect, backlash is perfect, and be careful if this diff uses a crush sleeve. You only get one shot with a crush sleeve and you are talking over 125 ft/lbs of torque to crush it then its within spec in less than 2 more ft/lbs. Easy to waste them. Be carefull when dialing in backlash to make sure the ring gear side of the diff is fully seated aginst the adjuster. Make sure than you take a flat file to the back of the ring gear before you install it to get any burs off of it. Don't press the ring gear onto the diff if it won't go. You can really mess it up. Heat it up in an oven at 250* for ten minutes and see if it goes on easier. Use a plastic mallet to lightly tap it on. Be careful pressing the bearings on and off too. A HIGH quality bearing seperator. I use a harborfreight.com seperator and I HIGHLY suggest you get one somewhere else that is of better quality. Make sure you mark the bearing caps and bolts before you take them off. The Chevy dealer parts dept will sell you gear marking compund if the gears don't come with it for like $5. Don't get frustrated. You must have patience. You may take it apart and put it back together a dozen or more times to get the ultimate pattern. Here is a link with some basic insutruction on gear swaps. It can help some.
http://www.randysringandpinion.com/
http://www.randysringandpinion.com/yukon-i...nstructions.pdf
Good luck
Aaron
Be sure you have all the tools and thoroughly understand how the rear end works before you pull it apart. Make sure your gear pattern is perfect, backlash is perfect, and be careful if this diff uses a crush sleeve. You only get one shot with a crush sleeve and you are talking over 125 ft/lbs of torque to crush it then its within spec in less than 2 more ft/lbs. Easy to waste them. Be carefull when dialing in backlash to make sure the ring gear side of the diff is fully seated aginst the adjuster. Make sure than you take a flat file to the back of the ring gear before you install it to get any burs off of it. Don't press the ring gear onto the diff if it won't go. You can really mess it up. Heat it up in an oven at 250* for ten minutes and see if it goes on easier. Use a plastic mallet to lightly tap it on. Be careful pressing the bearings on and off too. A HIGH quality bearing seperator. I use a harborfreight.com seperator and I HIGHLY suggest you get one somewhere else that is of better quality. Make sure you mark the bearing caps and bolts before you take them off. The Chevy dealer parts dept will sell you gear marking compund if the gears don't come with it for like $5. Don't get frustrated. You must have patience. You may take it apart and put it back together a dozen or more times to get the ultimate pattern. Here is a link with some basic insutruction on gear swaps. It can help some.
http://www.randysringandpinion.com/
http://www.randysringandpinion.com/yukon-i...nstructions.pdf
Good luck
Aaron
08-28-2002, 02:31 PM
#22
Freakaccident, These are the types of hints I've been hoping for. I've just come back from ordering the crush sleeve along with a few other items. All your points are duly noted and thanks for those links.
gernby, Yeah, my analogy may have left something to be desired. The torque loading thing is something I grew up with in old days of drag racing. Perhaps this car's weak clutch is not a good candidate for this technique but the time I did a clutch dump, it was a thing of beauty. Thanks for your comments just the same. Never hurts to get another side of the story.
gernby, Yeah, my analogy may have left something to be desired. The torque loading thing is something I grew up with in old days of drag racing. Perhaps this car's weak clutch is not a good candidate for this technique but the time I did a clutch dump, it was a thing of beauty. Thanks for your comments just the same. Never hurts to get another side of the story.
08-28-2002, 07:33 PM
#23
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You should have ordered two crush sleeves. Just be damn sure the torque wrench you are using to check the pinion bearing preload is an INCH pound torque wrench. I got mine from amazon.com for like $20. Sears laughed at me. Check that torque every tiny bit that pinion nut moves or you will overcrush the sleeve. Oh and don't use the crush sleeve until you are completely ready to put it back together for good. If you were getting new bearings things might be easier. You can use a little grinding cylinder wheel thing from sears on the inside of the old bearing so you don't have to press it on each time for tryout. It will fit tight but not press tight. You just have to change the bearing race out to match the bearing. Since you aren't using new bearings then be careful removing the bearings. Make sure the seperator is on the inside part of the bearing on not the cage or you will ruin it. Another good tip involving the adjusters is to seat the adjuster on the case threads then lightly set the cap over the bearing race then tighten the bolts hand tight. Usually the threads will match up fine when the cap pulls it to. Trying to thread them in from the outside is a biatch! And when you are setting up for a good pattern the instructions you may follow may be useless. If you keep adding or subtracting to the pinion for too long then go the other direction. Be patient and the the pattern will come.
08-28-2002, 07:50 PM
#24
The actual ring and pinion swap I'm leaving to a licenced mechanic who has a lot of experience with diffs. He has all the tools and gauges to do this. I'm leaving him the Helm manual as his guide. He's already taken a quick look at it and says that our diff is very similar to some Dodge diffs 
I will print out these points that have been made here and give them to him. The manual says it is possible to re-use the crush sleeve and if it goes out of range during the adjustment, then a new one must be used. I'll suggest to the mechanic to start with the old sleeve. Appreciate all the hints.
ps. Each pinion bearing costs $100.00 Can. The pinion shim kit costs $300.00
He will handle the disassembly with much care, inspect the inner pinion bearing and use it on the new pinion. The outer pinion bearing can stay where it is. If he needs a different shim, he says he has a source for them and can buy just one.
I will print out these points that have been made here and give them to him. The manual says it is possible to re-use the crush sleeve and if it goes out of range during the adjustment, then a new one must be used. I'll suggest to the mechanic to start with the old sleeve. Appreciate all the hints.ps. Each pinion bearing costs $100.00 Can. The pinion shim kit costs $300.00
He will handle the disassembly with much care, inspect the inner pinion bearing and use it on the new pinion. The outer pinion bearing can stay where it is. If he needs a different shim, he says he has a source for them and can buy just one.
08-29-2002, 07:47 AM
#25
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Dodge diffs are really nothing like ours. Dodge diffs don't use adjusters. I hope things go well. Good luck and let use know what you think of them when they are in.
08-30-2002, 09:22 AM
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any kind of break in on a new set of gears like this?
http://www.randysringandpinion.com/differe...ntialcare.shtml