Ouch. That's why the Honda disk is better. I always spec an AP2 disk part number.

 

Thanks. Good thing I read this, I'll be purchasing it right now.

Yeah I'm going oem cmc, oem slave, oem bearings, oem disk, oem ap1 flywheel and act hd pp.

 

OP sorry I thread jacked you for a bit but I would recommend replacing CMC, slave and fluid. If you're still having the problem then drop the tranny. I recently went through this.

 

Ap1 flywheel is 14lbs. Ap2 is 22lbs

Lots of other Hondas (RSX type s, civic si, etc) are in the 15lbs range stock also. its not like switching to an aftermarket 8lbs flywheel or something

 

Thank you all once again for all the help. I've checked the clutch fluid level and it's good, given that I don't have any problems depressing the clutch I'm gonna go for a clutch replacement. I'll try and order everything today and hopefully my mechanic has time early this week to do the job.

 

I'd try bleeding the clutch first...or adjusting the master cylinder. Your clutch isn't slipping...so just replacing it seems like a drastic step, and may not cure your issue.

There's a chance that your issue is caused by bad clutch springs. But...it is most likely a hydraulic issue.

 

Now could either issue have been caused by a hard stall? That's where all the issues began, the clutch felt decent enough before that, and now it feels bad, now it's grabbing right off the floor and gears are getting harder to grab, especially when downshifting. I've never had any real problems prior to that, never had any clutch fluid leaking anywhere, the fluid level has been consistent. I would love to hear it's just a matter of a quick adjustment or a fluid change, not a thousand bucks in parts and labor but there were no symptoms of anything being seriously wrong before I let an idiot try and start my car...

 

Stalls don't break clutches. It was likely coincidence. There's a SMALL outside chance that the clutch failed when your friend stalled it...but I wouldn't blame the stall. It was just waiting to break, if that was the case.

Stop downshifting while this is going on. You're really hurting the trans. Infact...don't drive it till you bleed the fluid and fix the pedal travel. Your CMC or slave cyl may be worn out internally as well.

You need 5 mins to bleed out the clutch slave cyl. You don't even need anyone to help you. While you're doing that...squeeze the slave cyl boot and see if fluid has been leaking past the seal and collecting there.

Your clutch is probably fine. The hydraulics are there to DISENGAGE the clutch...which is obviously not fully happening.

Bleeding it will likely fix the problem...at least temporarily. If you have pressure problems after bleeding the clutch, look into a failed slave or master cylinder. All those items and tasks are fairly inexpensive.

 

Again I have to ask, could the stall have caused a failed CMC or CSC? Literally the problems started when I drove the car home after he stalled it, and again it doesn't seem I'm losing any fluid as the level is still good two weeks later. I really do wish it was something as simple, but the symptoms I'm experiencing all seem to point to a clutch that just reached the end of the road...

 

A stall in and of itself would not have done that. However, you stated in your OP that your friend dumped the clutch with the handbrake on, so that might have forced alot of shock into the system and broke something. You won't know for sure until you get in there.

As others have recommended, try to do the bleed first. If you have the money and inclination, go ahead and do the clutch replacement anyway. Since you have an AP2, get the AP1 flywheel and the ACT HD PP with the OEM Friction Disc. Make sure to do the Clutch Delay Valve (CDV) delete by replacing the AP2 slave with an AP1 slave. You will also want to remove the clutch pedal requirement for starting the car while you are at it (will save your clutch in the long run).

I just had this done and love the new setup! The lighter flywheel and the CDV delete makes a world of difference!!!