Thanks for the response, and good ideas for getting the driveshaft off.

I already have most of the items on the way, figured that it would be easier to just buy a used diff then do the rebuild so ordered that as well. Going to also need some new diff bushings as well.

From what I can hear, the noise you are describing is the grinding/vibrating noise on decel? Mines was more of a whirring based on speed, not on accel or decel. It was especially loud in third/fourth gear, after the exhaust noise (buddy club spec II) would be way louder.

Additionally noticed some dents on gas tank/shielding but no gas leaking (from what I can tell). +1, I did drain the diff fluid but surprisingly no giant metal chunks? It was pretty viscous however. Color was darker but not silver as expected.

 

You may want to consider a stronger diff option. Driving Ambition in Rancho Cordova (Sacramento) offers a variety of S2000 (and NSX) stuff. They race all the time. One of the Honda dealers in my area even recommends them!

https://drivingambitionmotorsports.c...2000)--550-040

 

Yeah that’s a route I’m eventually going to go as I am looking to SC. Puddymod makes some reinforced diffs, driveshafts, and axles for boost applications. Only problem is the wait time so just got a used diff off eBay to get driving again.

 

Ok finally got the parts and was able to put it back together. New axles (autozone), used ap2 diff (ebay), used ap2 prop shaft (ebay), and new brackets/bushings. I did a diff flush with Red Line 57904 75W90 GL-5 Synthetic Gear. Tried starting the card and putting in gear.

I now have a problem where the rear diff is clunking. I thought it was play in the axles but rotation each of the driveshaft also causes this. I have also checked if there was loose bolts but everything is torqued down properly. Now looking for what this could be, and if the diff is bad.

Video:

 

All aftermarket axles are known to be total crap. Vibe badly, other issues. Used axles are always a better choice.

Not saying that is your current issue. But its gonna be your next one.

 

Understood, but these have lifetime warranty on them, and when they go bad I can replace them for free. It only requires my time but I'm fine with that.

 

The problem isn't they go bad, its that they are bad. Bad from day 1.

 

What makes them bad particularly? I know they will eventually cause vibration due to them being solid instead of hollow in addition to buckets going bad. However they were fine for me for at least a couple thousand hard miles (mainly track but also street).

 

Its the hollow thing. It doesn't make them go bad, it makes them vibe.

I believe its mostly a highway thing. Reaching a point where the hollow axle finds a resonance that overlaps natural highway frequencies.

 

Im not sure that play in your diff is anything wrong. They all have some play/backlash. But are you saying you drove it or put it in gear on stands and hear it clunking when the wheels are turning?