Low/Rough Idle Issue Resolved!!!!
I believe my friend purchased them from ballade, so that would be:
https://www.balladesports.com/produc...0-injector-set
Definitely make sure you also get an OBD2 scanner an APP that can get you visibility into what's going on with the Long Term and Short term Fuel trim values, too
https://www.balladesports.com/produc...0-injector-set
Definitely make sure you also get an OBD2 scanner an APP that can get you visibility into what's going on with the Long Term and Short term Fuel trim values, too
Aww.
Thanks for replying tho
My problem is similar but only on load(AC).
Vehicle is standard engine with Mugen exhaust, J's Tsuchinoko, Okada project coils, J's throttle body, Hondata and recently added Sun Auto Hyper Ground(I got desperate) with 50,000 miles.
It idles well enough without the AC but horrible with.
Thus far, what's done are valve adjustment, new plugs, Cleaning(TB, MAP, IAT sensor), new air filter.
Did I miss anything?
The problem persists.
I'm going in to get the injectors cleaned on Monday, fingers crossed!
Thanks for replying tho

My problem is similar but only on load(AC).
Vehicle is standard engine with Mugen exhaust, J's Tsuchinoko, Okada project coils, J's throttle body, Hondata and recently added Sun Auto Hyper Ground(I got desperate) with 50,000 miles.
It idles well enough without the AC but horrible with.
Thus far, what's done are valve adjustment, new plugs, Cleaning(TB, MAP, IAT sensor), new air filter.
Did I miss anything?
The problem persists.
I'm going in to get the injectors cleaned on Monday, fingers crossed!
Last edited by zoukieee; Sep 9, 2017 at 01:35 AM.
Aww.
Thanks for replying tho
My problem is similar but only on load(AC).
Vehicle is standard engine with Mugen exhaust, J's Tsuchinoko, Okada project coils, J's throttle body, Hondata and recently added Sun Auto Hyper Ground(I got desperate) with 50,000 miles.
It idles well enough without the AC but horrible with.
Thus far, what's done are valve adjustment, new plugs, Cleaning(TB, MAP, IAT sensor), new air filter.
Did I miss anything?
The problem persists.
I'm going in to get the injectors cleaned on Monday, fingers crossed!
Thanks for replying tho

My problem is similar but only on load(AC).
Vehicle is standard engine with Mugen exhaust, J's Tsuchinoko, Okada project coils, J's throttle body, Hondata and recently added Sun Auto Hyper Ground(I got desperate) with 50,000 miles.
It idles well enough without the AC but horrible with.
Thus far, what's done are valve adjustment, new plugs, Cleaning(TB, MAP, IAT sensor), new air filter.
Did I miss anything?
The problem persists.
I'm going in to get the injectors cleaned on Monday, fingers crossed!
Have you recorded any of the Long term or short term fuel trims? If it's trimming way out of spec then I would suspect the injectors.
So just to get the low hanging fruit out of the way:
-No CELs?
-Belt Tight within spec?
-Valves adjusted within spec?
-TCT tight?
-o2 Sensors aren't fowled
-spark plugs aren't fowled
-no miss fires
-coil pack connectors aren't loose
-coil packs have good resistance
-throttle cable properly adjusted
-throttle plate properly adjusted
-map sensor tightly connected
-TPS properly adjusted
can you make a video of the issue?
Ok, the thing is, my car is a 10 year old AP2. It's got low miles.
I've not recorded any of the trims.
I took it to my tuner 11 months ago. He plugged his computer in.
there seemed to be a problem with the idle learn feature of the ECU or Hondata.( I dunno which)
We let the car idle for a good 10-15 minutes while he was fiddling with his computer and after that the idle got loads better.
BUT still not as good, the fluctuation in idle evened out but fluctuated still.
Not how a Honda runs, I've had a few. EK4, FD2R and Euro R, tho my first F series this.
Coming to a stop, the idle would hit 400-600rpm, the car engine would start knocking with the low idle and it would stabilize after some seconds or the occasionally stall.
THE STANDARD from what I've been researching about this issue with S2000's.(However, most of the occurrences are with AP1's, correct me if I'm wrong)
I have a couple other friends with AP2's and they all have idle issues although none as severe as mine, one thing to note is that this ONLY happens when engine is warm.
Also, reset the ECU yesterday morning 10th Sep 2017 and went out for a spin without AC, trying my best to keep it in high revs.
The idle was pretty stable after that and I am heading out so will feedback after that.(it's morning now and have an appt later)
To answer your Q's.
No CEL's
Valves adjusted to spec
TCT is tight
O2 sensors, I have no idea on this
Plugs are pretty new(OEM), no difference after I changed from the old ones.
Misfires yes but not often, noticeable while engine braking at low rpm
Coils are tight
Unsure about the resistance
Vehicle is DBW, TB was cleaned which did alleviate the problem albeit for a VERY short while
MAP was cleaned, o-ring oiled and tight
TPS untouched, it's a J's TB and I have would prefer not to meddle with it(No experience with this)
More info to add.
I am in Singapore, vehicle is JDM AP2, fuel used is highest grade, weather is hot(90degrees +-), Humidity is 100% usually.
Also, there is tip-in throttle hesitation. Read that that's a sign of bad injector/injectors
The video is a little old(sometimes it's super bad, considering that, this is mild)
I just installed the Sun Auto unit(coming a week) and it's been holding up fairly well.
I think you can tell I am getting pretty desperate now to even try a voltage stabilizer. Something I've never used my whole life.
I'm on a mission to restore driveability, not power
Here's the vid, note that the Odo is in KM's and I'm running 4.4, previously 4.7 without speedo correction hence the estimation of 50,000mi.
The problem is mild here, it stalled last week.
I've not recorded any of the trims.
I took it to my tuner 11 months ago. He plugged his computer in.
there seemed to be a problem with the idle learn feature of the ECU or Hondata.( I dunno which)
We let the car idle for a good 10-15 minutes while he was fiddling with his computer and after that the idle got loads better.
BUT still not as good, the fluctuation in idle evened out but fluctuated still.
Not how a Honda runs, I've had a few. EK4, FD2R and Euro R, tho my first F series this.
Coming to a stop, the idle would hit 400-600rpm, the car engine would start knocking with the low idle and it would stabilize after some seconds or the occasionally stall.
THE STANDARD from what I've been researching about this issue with S2000's.(However, most of the occurrences are with AP1's, correct me if I'm wrong)
I have a couple other friends with AP2's and they all have idle issues although none as severe as mine, one thing to note is that this ONLY happens when engine is warm.
Also, reset the ECU yesterday morning 10th Sep 2017 and went out for a spin without AC, trying my best to keep it in high revs.
The idle was pretty stable after that and I am heading out so will feedback after that.(it's morning now and have an appt later)
To answer your Q's.
No CEL's
Valves adjusted to spec
TCT is tight
O2 sensors, I have no idea on this
Plugs are pretty new(OEM), no difference after I changed from the old ones.
Misfires yes but not often, noticeable while engine braking at low rpm
Coils are tight
Unsure about the resistance
Vehicle is DBW, TB was cleaned which did alleviate the problem albeit for a VERY short while
MAP was cleaned, o-ring oiled and tight
TPS untouched, it's a J's TB and I have would prefer not to meddle with it(No experience with this)
More info to add.
I am in Singapore, vehicle is JDM AP2, fuel used is highest grade, weather is hot(90degrees +-), Humidity is 100% usually.
Also, there is tip-in throttle hesitation. Read that that's a sign of bad injector/injectors
The video is a little old(sometimes it's super bad, considering that, this is mild)
I just installed the Sun Auto unit(coming a week) and it's been holding up fairly well.
I think you can tell I am getting pretty desperate now to even try a voltage stabilizer. Something I've never used my whole life.
I'm on a mission to restore driveability, not power
Here's the vid, note that the Odo is in KM's and I'm running 4.4, previously 4.7 without speedo correction hence the estimation of 50,000mi.
The problem is mild here, it stalled last week.
Weather was nice today, the idle acts up less on such days.
Cool, Cloudy with some slight drizzles.
Drove 10mi to the venue and about the same back with and without AC.
The idle was good today.
At a stop with the engine idling, stabbed the throttle to give it some revs.
Usually this would result in a bad stumble followed by 3 or so hunts.
Today.
Sometimes the revs dropped a little. Perhaps 100 or so rpms, other times not.
It was good.
Will monitor on a hotter day.
I have decided not to clean the injectors and employ a fuel system cleaner instead.
Techron or BG44k if I can source some.
Cool, Cloudy with some slight drizzles.
Drove 10mi to the venue and about the same back with and without AC.
The idle was good today.
At a stop with the engine idling, stabbed the throttle to give it some revs.
Usually this would result in a bad stumble followed by 3 or so hunts.
Today.
Sometimes the revs dropped a little. Perhaps 100 or so rpms, other times not.
It was good.
Will monitor on a hotter day.
I have decided not to clean the injectors and employ a fuel system cleaner instead.
Techron or BG44k if I can source some.
Many have reported that cleaning injectors didn't last, and problem soon returned. That new injectors were the only long term fix.
I very highly doubt an aftermarket intake gasket designed for performance is the solution to a drivability problem...
I very highly doubt an aftermarket intake gasket designed for performance is the solution to a drivability problem...
Injectors is the last resort, They are not known to fail and cost a pretty penny.
Do you have this idle issue too and did you fix it by changing new injectors?
Thanks for the reply!





