if it is your wheel bearings and hub, you cannot visually detect it.

just change it out...

 

I know every one seem pretty keen on it being a wheel hub. Has any one ever thought it could be the rear tie rods and tie rod ball joint? I Put the car on stands and pulled the e-brake to simulate load as a take off. When let the clutch up I can Replicate the noise. So I had my friend work the clutch and I went under to put my hands on different parts to follow the vibration of the clicking. It is a shift in something cause it will do it once in froward and then it wont do it again till you go to reverse and back to froward. When the car is on all wheels a stop changes the inertia of the load allowing it to do it more than once in the same direction with out switching to the opposite first.

Moving froward, non of the parts feel like a click but the tie rod when you hear it. When you put your hand on the ball joint you feel it the strongest.

I makes since because of the nature of our suspension the control arms control the wheel shifting froward and backward as well as the top of the wheel and bottom moving in (to the dif) or out (away from the dif).

See, the rear tie rod controls the front and back motion. Being held from the inside of the control arms In a froward gear the front of the wheels apply inward pressure and in revers the back of the wheel applies inward pressure pulling out on that ball joint.

Giving to to opposite pressures and the relation of the sound to the direction of the drive train the tie rod ball joint is the part bearing the most pressure and admitting the most vibration when the clicking is heard.

 

I think I know what it is. The sway bar links are dry. Inside of the link is a nylon bushing and sometimes the grease dries out. To test this unbolt both links from the arms, and go for a road test. Take it easy on the road test because your handling will not be the same. Good luck

 

Ok, I just bought new axle nuts cause they are cheap so what the hell. I put some grease were the nuts meet the hub and put them on. Auto zone wanted 100 dollars to rent a torque wrench so i used a breaker bar and a 4' pipe and tightened until i could not tighten any more. lol they are probably at 300 lb tq. But THE SQUEAK IS GONE! so for twelve bucks for the bolts Just buy new ones and install!

There could be a million things that can cause a clicking but its probably this. And it is cheap to try so why not!

 

I remember this thread. I also remember some gave you an idea where to look. Example ---- what about caliper/pad moving around?

Did you do any checking on the recommendations?
If not....it's tough to open another thread and ask for another advice.

Also check one of your shock absorber (4) bolts at the top, that could be lose.

 

Use a torque wrench. $100 to rent a torque wrench? You can buy one for that amount.


If you overtorque the axle nut, you could stretch/weaken the axle leading it to fail. The result will be your wheel falling off.

220lbs.

 

My car has/had this noise. It sounds like something rubbing - maybe brake pad or warped rotor. I finally gave up and took it to a local independnt shop. They found a TSB. They greased the splines on the outboard end of the left rear axle. It was quiet for six months. They greased it again with some marine grade lithium grease. It was quiet for six months. Next week it goes back for the third time. New nut this time.

The TSB reads like it would be a one time fix. Apparently not. Has anyone else had this as a re-occuring problem?

 

I get a similar noise but it is a clicking sound when roll forward or backwards... it is after the gear is engaged, only when the initial load is put to move the car. Shit is annoying and I want to fix it but there are much to many culprits.

I read this whole thread and heard a few various suggestions but I thought I would state my case and see what you all think.

So far it could be:
axle nuts
rear tie rods and tie rod ball joint
cv joints
diff
wheel bearing/hub

Any thoughts as to how I can really lock down this problem and fix it rather then doing all of the above?

Thanks in advance.

 

Ha....I have exactly the same problem.

Reported it at Honda service in March: Nothing reported
Took it to another dealer 2 weeks ago: they said there was lack in one of the drive shafts.......i thought this was rubbish as there's barely 1mm of slack!
Took it to a 3rd dealer and they said the hub nuts were dry and dirty, so they regreased them and retorqued the nuts.

Seem to get the noise most after a run in it & parking on my driveway (which is on a slope). It sounds agonisingly painful. Then pulling away you hear it below say 2k rpm in 1st. it's a grounching/grinding noise but goes away once you get moving.

Have been advised by another forum that it is possibly the diff; and that changing the diff oil would be a good idea.

It kind of sounds clutchy but definately not the clutch as noise is at the rear (i understand diff is made of clutch-like plates...is this right?)

Tired bearings would give off a constant winding/groaning noise
Car has only done 39k miles.

Will be changing the diff oil this weekend.
What noise do knackered diffs give off?

I just want it to go away! aarrggh!

 

My rear driver side wheel made a high pitch kind of metallic noise as well. It turned out I needed to repack my wheel bearing. So I took off my wheel and used my air gun to unbolt the axle nut. Then I gunned it back on really tight. I repeated this about 4 to 5 times. Then the noise was gone.