Maintenance with 52K on it?
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Joined: Oct 2000
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From: Davie, FL
I'll handle this one for you xviper 
.
1. If you know the service history of the vehicle, you will want to do an engine oil change at 3-5k mile intervals. Also, change the differential and/or transmission fluid if it's been more than 15k miles since the last change.
2. If you don't know what the service history of the vehicle is, then do all of the fluid changes, plus an alignment. Though not required until 105k miles, I'd also recommend a valve adjustment.
3. The F20C engine does not use a timing belt. It has a chain that is supposed to be good for the life of the engine. Some would proactively change it after 100k miles or so.
Once you buy the car, read the owner's manual for more maintenance information.
.1. If you know the service history of the vehicle, you will want to do an engine oil change at 3-5k mile intervals. Also, change the differential and/or transmission fluid if it's been more than 15k miles since the last change.
2. If you don't know what the service history of the vehicle is, then do all of the fluid changes, plus an alignment. Though not required until 105k miles, I'd also recommend a valve adjustment.
3. The F20C engine does not use a timing belt. It has a chain that is supposed to be good for the life of the engine. Some would proactively change it after 100k miles or so.
Once you buy the car, read the owner's manual for more maintenance information.
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The S uses a timing chain, so no worries there.
For the first time around, if it were me, I would do oil, tranny, and diff, because it is cheap and easy to do all three. Then inspect your clutch and brake fluids, they should be a light and fairly clear, if not, flush them. Inspect both air filters and change as needed. Also a good idea to have a compression and leakdown test done before purchase if the owner will allow it, and do, or have done, a retainer inspection as soon as you own it to detect any damage from mechanical overrevs. If retainers are damaged you will be able to see it, you can then have them replaced for a fraction of the cost that would be incurred if a valve gets dropped. Have a good crawl around underneath and check for torn CV boots, undercarriage damage, fluid splatter (should really be done before buying). Treat the top seals with Shin-Etsu to keep them in good shape and make sure the TSB for the spark plugs has been done as it can be an engine killer.
Follow your manual for service intervals after that with the exception of the diff fluid which some people change as often as every oil change (these are hard drivers and such a schedule would probably be overkill for most, I will be doing mine annually/5,000 miles).
This is what I did in the first couple weeks of ownership, now I am just enjoying the car. It may seem excessive but gave me peace of mind. Good luck!!
For the first time around, if it were me, I would do oil, tranny, and diff, because it is cheap and easy to do all three. Then inspect your clutch and brake fluids, they should be a light and fairly clear, if not, flush them. Inspect both air filters and change as needed. Also a good idea to have a compression and leakdown test done before purchase if the owner will allow it, and do, or have done, a retainer inspection as soon as you own it to detect any damage from mechanical overrevs. If retainers are damaged you will be able to see it, you can then have them replaced for a fraction of the cost that would be incurred if a valve gets dropped. Have a good crawl around underneath and check for torn CV boots, undercarriage damage, fluid splatter (should really be done before buying). Treat the top seals with Shin-Etsu to keep them in good shape and make sure the TSB for the spark plugs has been done as it can be an engine killer.
Follow your manual for service intervals after that with the exception of the diff fluid which some people change as often as every oil change (these are hard drivers and such a schedule would probably be overkill for most, I will be doing mine annually/5,000 miles).
This is what I did in the first couple weeks of ownership, now I am just enjoying the car. It may seem excessive but gave me peace of mind. Good luck!!
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: oahu
Originally Posted by apex2k' date='Feb 17 2005, 07:39 AM
The S uses a timing chain, so no worries there.
For the first time around, if it were me, I would do oil, tranny, and diff, because it is cheap and easy to do all three. Then inspect your clutch and brake fluids, they should be a light and fairly clear, if not, flush them. Inspect both air filters and change as needed. Also a good idea to have a compression and leakdown test done before purchase if the owner will allow it, and do, or have done, a retainer inspection as soon as you own it to detect any damage from mechanical overrevs. If retainers are damaged you will be able to see it, you can then have them replaced for a fraction of the cost that would be incurred if a valve gets dropped. Have a good crawl around underneath and check for torn CV boots, undercarriage damage, fluid splatter (should really be done before buying). Treat the top seals with Shin-Etsu to keep them in good shape and make sure the TSB for the spark plugs has been done as it can be an engine killer.
Follow your manual for service intervals after that with the exception of the diff fluid which some people change as often as every oil change (these are hard drivers and such a schedule would probably be overkill for most, I will be doing mine annually/5,000 miles).
This is what I did in the first couple weeks of ownership, now I am just enjoying the car. It may seem excessive but gave me peace of mind. Good luck!!
For the first time around, if it were me, I would do oil, tranny, and diff, because it is cheap and easy to do all three. Then inspect your clutch and brake fluids, they should be a light and fairly clear, if not, flush them. Inspect both air filters and change as needed. Also a good idea to have a compression and leakdown test done before purchase if the owner will allow it, and do, or have done, a retainer inspection as soon as you own it to detect any damage from mechanical overrevs. If retainers are damaged you will be able to see it, you can then have them replaced for a fraction of the cost that would be incurred if a valve gets dropped. Have a good crawl around underneath and check for torn CV boots, undercarriage damage, fluid splatter (should really be done before buying). Treat the top seals with Shin-Etsu to keep them in good shape and make sure the TSB for the spark plugs has been done as it can be an engine killer.
Follow your manual for service intervals after that with the exception of the diff fluid which some people change as often as every oil change (these are hard drivers and such a schedule would probably be overkill for most, I will be doing mine annually/5,000 miles).
This is what I did in the first couple weeks of ownership, now I am just enjoying the car. It may seem excessive but gave me peace of mind. Good luck!!
im completely new to the s2k's and doing all this maintenance, since i never did them on my si and the rsx
explain
"Treat the top seals with Shin-Etsu to keep them in good shape and make sure the TSB for the spark plugs has been done as it can be an engine killer."
how do i do this test?
"Also a good idea to have a compression and leakdown test done before purchase"
lastly..
"Have a good crawl around underneath and check for torn CV boots,
whats CV boots?
undercarriage damage, fluid splatter <---?
52k miles for a 2000 isn't too high right?
i remember in the past i kept on hearing this thing about a clutch buzz problem? how do i test for that?
thanks
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 15,323
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From: Longmont, CO
1) The convertible top seals to the side windows and windshield frame with flexible rubber pieces. Shin-Etsu makes a grease (available at any Honda dealer) that conditions this pieces so they don't deform and let water or wind in.
2) Any good mechanics shop can do the compression test. It requires some special tools you likely don't have.
3) CV boots are rubber pieces that protect the CV joints. The CV joints are where the driveshafts attach to the differential and rear wheels. Get under the rear of the car and find the two driveshafts. Look for the two accordion-like black rubber pieces at either end of the shafts. Make sure they're not torn or broken.
4) 52k is just fine for an S2000.
5) The car is very noisy even on good days. Personally, I wouldn't worry about any clutch buzz, even if it's present.
2) Any good mechanics shop can do the compression test. It requires some special tools you likely don't have.
3) CV boots are rubber pieces that protect the CV joints. The CV joints are where the driveshafts attach to the differential and rear wheels. Get under the rear of the car and find the two driveshafts. Look for the two accordion-like black rubber pieces at either end of the shafts. Make sure they're not torn or broken.
4) 52k is just fine for an S2000.
5) The car is very noisy even on good days. Personally, I wouldn't worry about any clutch buzz, even if it's present.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 783
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From: oahu
which year in the s2000's did they start using the glass for rear window?
2000 = plastic right? i hear that it, as it gets older it will deform and get fooggggyy?
is there any signs of anything i should be aware of..? when im test driving it
since this 2000 is so cheap, the previous owner had put a bunch of mods in it, this i shouldn't worry about right?
he put the following:
H & R suspension?
18 inch SE 37's
spoon exhaust as well ? <--is it noisy? loud?
full real cwest kit <--how to tell the difference?
some other cosmetic changes...
UPDATE
can anyone kindly tell me how i can check the valves and retainers?
2000 = plastic right? i hear that it, as it gets older it will deform and get fooggggyy?
is there any signs of anything i should be aware of..? when im test driving it
since this 2000 is so cheap, the previous owner had put a bunch of mods in it, this i shouldn't worry about right?
he put the following:
H & R suspension?
18 inch SE 37's
spoon exhaust as well ? <--is it noisy? loud?
full real cwest kit <--how to tell the difference?
some other cosmetic changes...
UPDATE
can anyone kindly tell me how i can check the valves and retainers?
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Posts: 555
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Originally Posted by jdm_rsx' date='Feb 17 2005, 05:58 PM
please dont mind my n00bness...
im completely new to the s2k's and doing all this maintenance, since i never did them on my si and the rsx
explain
"Treat the top seals with Shin-Etsu to keep them in good shape and make sure the TSB for the spark plugs has been done as it can be an engine killer."
how do i do this test?
"Also a good idea to have a compression and leakdown test done before purchase"
lastly..
"Have a good crawl around underneath and check for torn CV boots,
whats CV boots?
undercarriage damage, fluid splatter <---?
52k miles for a 2000 isn't too high right?
i remember in the past i kept on hearing this thing about a clutch buzz problem? how do i test for that?
thanks
im completely new to the s2k's and doing all this maintenance, since i never did them on my si and the rsx
explain
"Treat the top seals with Shin-Etsu to keep them in good shape and make sure the TSB for the spark plugs has been done as it can be an engine killer."
how do i do this test?
"Also a good idea to have a compression and leakdown test done before purchase"
lastly..
"Have a good crawl around underneath and check for torn CV boots,
whats CV boots?
undercarriage damage, fluid splatter <---?
52k miles for a 2000 isn't too high right?
i remember in the past i kept on hearing this thing about a clutch buzz problem? how do i test for that?
thanks
First off, everybody was a noob once, so don't hesitate to ask questions, there is a lot of knowledge at this site.
As for the spark plug TSB, on the model year you are looking at the torque spec on the spark plugs was low, and I believe the plugs themselves were different as well. What was happening was the plugs were getting loose and backing out. Once they start to lose some contact with the head they are screwed into they start to soak up a lot of heat, then they disintegrate and fall into the cylinder and you need a new engine. The TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) took care of this but the question is, did the previous owner have it done. There is a case in the forums now where one S2000 owner took it to the dealer on several occasions and Honda never took care of it, so you have to ask them specifically. It is a simple fix.
Regarding undercarriage damage, fluid splatter. The S rides low and spins easy. I looked at one that had been backed up over a parking lot curb, causing damage to the subframe, other than that the car was perfect. Any damaged, or shiny new suspension components (control arms, etc.) may indicate the car has been spun into an object. Fluid splatter could come from an engine or differential mount (both are filled with fluid) that has ruptured, or a leaky differential, transmission, or other.
The glass window came out in 2002.
As stated the S is a noisy car. When driving check that it does not pull to either side or vibrate in the rear when accelerating. Take a few slow corners in a parking lot (figure eights are good for this) and listen for groans and clicks from the differential.
Should you worry about mods? Only you can answer that. Does the owner strike you as someone who loved this car and took good care of it (as many S owners do), or did he rice it out and ride it hard? Have to go with your instincts on that one.
Checking retainers is something no owner in his right mind is going to let you do as you will have to pull the valve cover to do it, I can't imagine this being okay with anyone. I just made it one of the first things I did when I got it home to my garage. The reason for doing it is this. If the car was mechanically overreved (bad downshift) then some retainers could be cracked. If this happens the valve starts to slip until it drops into the cylinder. With inspection you can catch this before it happens. If it runs well just get it home and then you can have a look. Just come back here and someone will walk you thru it, but until you buy, don't waste your time worrying about it.
Look, it sounds like you really want to make a smart purchase and I hope I am not throwing too much information at you. I hung around this site for 2 years before I felt I knew enough to purchase, but then I may be a slow learner and a bit obsessive
. Don't be in a hurry, hang around, ask questions and make a good choice. The S is a great car and very well put together, don't let these checkpoints intimidate you. Most have never had any trouble at all.There are a lot of very good S2000s out there that have been well taken care of and at a good price. There are also plenty of folks here that can answer just about any question you might have. Good luck.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 783
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From: oahu
hey man
thanks a lot for the posts!
another reason why im interested in the s2k is becaue it has CHEAPER INSURANCE than my integra
believe it or not = )
im from oahu, and i think i will have the cheapest s2000 rate on the island...this is absolutely amazing....
current integra LS year 2000 coupe = 1280? annually
if i buy the s2000 year 2000 = 1089 or so annually
weird huh?
another issue would be im a weak 6 speed driver, and just need to practice more, most likely ill be learning 6speed on the s2k as well...
im short as well with me being 5 1', would that be tough? like blind spots and such
i been in the s but never really driven it well enough to see...
please throw more information at me! i can never have enough knowledge!
HERES THE CHECKLIST
test motor, drive
corners, slow
corners, higher speed
listen for front / rear noises
fluids splatter, leaks
CV area, bottom damages...
check motor
spark plug issue
would accident play a big part as well?
how can i check for these? some say that things will never line up good and etc..
i think thats it right?
im going to make a list before i go and check out the car..
thanks!
thanks a lot for the posts!
another reason why im interested in the s2k is becaue it has CHEAPER INSURANCE than my integra
believe it or not = )
im from oahu, and i think i will have the cheapest s2000 rate on the island...this is absolutely amazing....
current integra LS year 2000 coupe = 1280? annually
if i buy the s2000 year 2000 = 1089 or so annually
weird huh?
another issue would be im a weak 6 speed driver, and just need to practice more, most likely ill be learning 6speed on the s2k as well...
im short as well with me being 5 1', would that be tough? like blind spots and such
i been in the s but never really driven it well enough to see...
please throw more information at me! i can never have enough knowledge!
HERES THE CHECKLIST
test motor, drive
corners, slow
corners, higher speed
listen for front / rear noises
fluids splatter, leaks
CV area, bottom damages...
check motor
spark plug issue
would accident play a big part as well?
how can i check for these? some say that things will never line up good and etc..
i think thats it right?
im going to make a list before i go and check out the car..
thanks!
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 555
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I will PM you with the checklist I put together when I bought my S as soon as I get a chance, I just need to clean it up a bit and am short on time right now.
To answer your immediate question regarding accidents. Each body panel on the S has a VIN decal on it (hood, trunk, front and rear bumpers, both fenders, doors and 1/4 panels) that should still be there if the panels are original. The engine also has a VIN in several places, this VIN may not match the car and this is normal. It should be within a few numbers and both, engine and car VINs, will be listed on the window sticker if the owner still has it. As you mentioned, panel alignment is a good tip-off and running a CARFAX, while not a guarantee, is also a good idea.
I will try to get back to you by tomorrow with that list.
To answer your immediate question regarding accidents. Each body panel on the S has a VIN decal on it (hood, trunk, front and rear bumpers, both fenders, doors and 1/4 panels) that should still be there if the panels are original. The engine also has a VIN in several places, this VIN may not match the car and this is normal. It should be within a few numbers and both, engine and car VINs, will be listed on the window sticker if the owner still has it. As you mentioned, panel alignment is a good tip-off and running a CARFAX, while not a guarantee, is also a good idea.
I will try to get back to you by tomorrow with that list.