Now I'm sure to get a bunch of flack about how I have driven this car, so before yall dig into me and let me have it, realize I already know it was stupid, and that I caused my problems and deserve the results/costs, and maybe just give me advice other than the obvious which is stop mistreating the car and keep it maintained.

So. BILLMAN thanks for the reply. I have been reading timing jumped posts on all types of sites other than just honda s2k ones and noticed a few causes for timing getting out/off.. some of them had to do with 'engine braking' and 'slamming valves closed' which was a result of quick off the throttle when high RPM or WOT and so fourth then just instantly getting off the gas pedal fully, maybe like going from 120MPH High Gear High over 6500+ RPM and then off gas, into neutral roll to stop... Well over the years I remember racing or f@#king around with other idiots on the highways and doing these types of stupid engine abusive things down shifting to slow the car down from high speed... and add into the mix I've had oil leaks and low oil on occasion before changing the oil... which probably meant times when oil pressure was weak and the TCT wasn't able to perform fully or well. Do you think any of these dumb behaviors could have lead to something like this? And add in there maybe 1 or 2 minor over revvs when downshifting accidentally too far but only for a second and car seemed too have ran perfectly fine for years after the momentary over revs.

 

You dont need a functioning timing chain nor TCT to determine if you have bent or burnt valves. So he is either incompetent or trying to sell you a job you dont need.

 

It is 100% safe to rev the car to redline and snap off the throttle. Did your supposed s2k mechanic pull the valve cover and prove it has jumped time? Is he 100% sure?

 

Yes. He removed the valve cover and has proven it's jumped timing by 1 or 2 teeth. One thing I just realized after reading more about the TCT is that it is possible for it to leak oil badly, well, the oil leak that I've been talking about earlier in this thread/topic came from the same area as the VTEC which I now realize or believe is also just above the TCT.. and when I think about seeing the oil all over the side of the engine it was all right there below the VTEC solenoid and basically at the TCT. So i'm thinking theres a real good chance that the TCT was Leaking OIL PROFUSELY for days or weeks or longer.... which wouldn't that be a factor increasing the chances of TCT failure or TC skip/slap?

 

Snap some pics of the timing gears and chain and cam lobes at TDC top dead center post em here, it still sounds kind of fishy.

cam wheel bolt leaking are you sure it isn't coming from the cam wheel bolt. You said he removed the valve cover, that oil could be from valve cover gasket after he removed the valve cover. How is the compression??

 

any new news?

 

Yes. Well I think I would have made some of you guys proud cause I stood up to the Shop owner, and the lead mechanic with the arguments / defensive posture that BILLMAN250 and others on here made known such as:

You don't need to replace the TCT and chains FIRST before checking compression and other items to see if the engine has much more severe damage that might negate this initial repair.

Plus I argued/ drilled them about what exactly have they performed, and observed, checked to come to the ultimate conclusion that the timing chain jumped and Must be replaced and the TCT... I went into all of the history of the repairs prior and long story short they seem to know what they are doing, and what they are saying.

They weren't arrogant or defensive or even cocky.. So, they are promising this : That after they change the TCT and chains if it doesn't fix the car I won't have to pay a dime for that repair! Now of course that doesn't guarantee that there isn't other issues that will either be left for me to fix or me to authorize payment to fix.. but they are basically promising that if they request authorization for a major procedure/job and it doesn't fix the problem they say it will or we are trying to fix.. I don't pay! So should have a either TOTALLY HAPPY it's FIxED post in the next few days or a oh crap might be expensive or just few valves bents etc repair.. either way im much more comfortable now that I've demanded real explainations and reasonings thanks to yall.

 

Awesome. Best of luck.

 

I can get pretty defensive when it comes to stuff like this, because I am finding out more and more that most mechanics have absolutely no clue about engines, cars, or their proper workings.

I am watching out for you, and would like to see consumers get what they pay for, and not have to pay for guesswork.

Bottom line, a major engine health determination should be made first. Primarily a leakdown test. This can be done with bad chain, tct, and guides. It can even be done if you take the guides, tct, and chain and toss them in the trash.

Simply position the cylinders and cams accordingly and test the valve integrity. This will determine your teardown plan for the chain work. Assess all, then tear in.

Here's a question...are they planning to pull the cylinder head to do the chain replacement? The manual states you need to pull the head, but who ever wrote the manual got it very very wrong on endless accounts.

Pulling the oil pan is the quickest, least invasive way to go when it comes to guide and chain replacement, trust me on this one.

BUT...if they would make a determination on valve integrity first, then they can use the overlapping labor to their advantage, and your wallets advantage. They would save tons of time, lose no profit, pass that savings on to the customer, so he can come on the forums and post his good experience. There is plenty of honest money to be made.

It does seem they are working with the customer here, so that's a big plus. I wish you the best and keep us posted...

 

Yesterdays customer....

He went to Honda, had a vibration on acceleration ONLY. Anyone who reads these forums knows what that problem is.

They told him he needed TWO new rims to the tune of 1500 BUCKS!

I told him go for it, but don't pay a dime if it's not fixed. Guess who's getting new rims for free, and maybe then dealers might open their eyes.