[img]file:///Volumes/HTDB/iPhoto%20Library/iPhoto%20Library/Modified/2013/GBTP%2075%20Deathly%20Danios%20TimeLapse%20Britsan eica_2/IMG_2307.jpg[/img]My Car is Fixed! The cog was the part that led to the timing getting off by 1 or 2 teeth which caused the engine to die, and stop running, and never start again until this was replaced, the timing chain and TCT was replaced, and timing set correctly. Now the engine runs stronger than it has in 2 years, and the mechanics told me during their test drive they felt the engine was very strong even if it were a much newer engine, they felt it was strong by new or 10 year old standards. They did drop the oil pan early on in the diagnosis like you all told me they should do before asking for major repairs that won't fix it if the engine is toast. They said there was really no metal in the oil pan, and everything else seems to be great. It wasn't even low on oil, nor was the oil in poor condition. It ran great for a day or two, then went bizerk because the TPS sensor is ultra flaky now... so I've temporarily disconnected it while I get a new one so it doesn't surge uncontrollably and quite insanely.

Plus, the same codes that were coming on before it died causing this recent work are back, so I'm gonna replace the o2 sensor in front of the cat, because the code says its dead, and the CAT because the code suggests i've killed the cat again while driving with issues which likely spewed raw fuel into the cat, plus the secondary idle air pump went into hyper spin mode really loud and high pitched for a few minutes and then stopped and a nasty electrical plasticy burning smelll filled the car for half an hour... and lastly the drivers side HID light comes on and off instantly so I'm working on that, and all this before the end of the month so I can pass inspection. So I'm gonna have to install that delete device so I don't get Codes for the missing/broken about to be removed idle air pump, and possibly for the o2 secondary bank sensor since I might be getting a test pipe instead of a cat.

What are your suggestion people about should I go test pipe or regular cat, and any comments on the entire summary of this fiasco which is basically finished finally.

BTW.. I'm trying to attach photos, or links to the photos of the gear ./ cam gear that caused this how do i do that??
in the mean time here is the link:

ALBUM: https://plus.google....261485012470737



COG:


https://lh6.googleus...08/IMG_2307.jpg
https://lh5.googleus...08/IMG_2311.jpg
https://lh4.googleus...08/IMG_2314.jpg
https://lh3.googleus...08/IMG_2318.jpg
https://lh3.googleus...08/IMG_2322.jpg
https://lh5.googleus...08/IMG_2324.jpg

 

Dude that looks like the cam wheel bolt starved the head and possibly the bottom end. I don't think you will get the more then a couple of months out of that motor. That engine should have never been repaired, it will most likely fail again. I would not sink any more money it to this car.

 

Ok, you're scaring me, and I want to take you seriously so tell me what is the easiest and or cheapest way I might be able to check for bottom end or other severe damage without getting too deep into tear down.

Maybe if possible tell me how I might be able to do this myself without special tools or gear other than a good scan tool and volt/ohm multi meter and basic tools.


They took off the oil pan and found not metal or signs of damage.... And it is running very strong now, the strongest it's ever ran, its idling perfect, no hesitation no bog no misfires, and it is free of many minor annoyances which it had for a while before this repair like spungie idle rev roll off where you are sitting still and rev it and it or moving and shift to neutral and roll to a stop and the revs would initially drop and dip below idle Rpms and then back to normal idle Rpms... Now it isn't fluctuating, and it seems to run like it did when I first bought it.


One more even stranger thing is that the shifter/ stick is actually more positive and feels much more precise and accurate than it ever has, like a brand new car , even though the transmission was fully rebuilt a year ago, it didn't feel as good as it does now when it was first rebuilt, It's weird that the transmission is acting better and shouldn't be related to the timing repair...


Do you think that it's very certain severe engine damage from this cam gear oil starvation even if the oil starvation or cam gear near failure occurred at idle no load engine not hot not cold just barely warmed and it happened possibly related to the last mechanic work on it which was just half a mile before it stopped running and starting leading to this repair.... Where the mechanic wasn't competent and wasn't an import guy, and was paid to adjust the valves and replace the vtec solenoid gasket? This was the last repair this mechanic whom had been my regular mechanic for years, had been able to perform my s2000 repairs for years, even rebuilt the transmission, but when this last repair was done, they threatened me with an ultimatum that now that the car doesn't start if I want to continue to use them as my mechanic, the only way they will perform this diagnosis and repair is If I agree to allow them full reign and blank check to buy all the Honda dealer parts and work on the car until its been fully repaired... Basically that they would fix one thing drive it and find another problem and buy Honda parts and so on and likely would end up replacing much of the motor and systems spending thousands and then I might be able to continue to be their customer in the future. So needless to say this was offensive surprising and depressing that my mechanic of years and thousands of dollars and even hundreds in tips later was banning me from their shop forever ... And somewhat suspicious improbable timing of how this ultimatum and protection of liability comes at the exact moment that they have worked on the head, and the car experiences a significant mechanical failure that is related to or centered precisely within the components and area of which they were the last to open, see, adjust, assemble, and test.

The mechanics and management of North Dallas Imports discussed this theory and history with me, and they mostly are of the belief that this engine failure was not directly consciously caused by the last mechanic, and that they weren't necessarily able to see this damage without being deeper into the head then they had to be to perform the work they were requested to perform... But they admit there is a chance that either on purpose or accident they did dig deeper into the head than needed to perform work because of their lack of experience with imports or DOHC, and or that they accidentally, neglectfully or possibly consciously reassembled with problems , and or may have seen that damage and didn't want to be accused and cut me off or had the blank check protection if they continued to work on it....



But tell me what you suggest for my questions above.

 

looks like low oil pressure or low fluid level.

 

I would ask billman see what he says.

 

Ok thanks guys!

 

Bill man,

My car is working strong. I posted photos of the cam gear and I'm getting word it likely will fail soon. So I'm curious do you have a suggestion of what I might be able to perform by myself or as cheap as possible to determine whether the bottom end or head is going to fail fairly soon because of any damage that may have happened when the cam gear nearly completely failed... Take a look at my photos on the post first maybe to get your assessment

Your advice is always appreciated!

 

I sent that message directly to Billman also just wanted it for all.

 

Did they remove the vtec solenoid to see if the metal shavings went into the screen?

Undertorqued cam wheel bolt is the 100% cause, all else followed.

1-loose bolt allows camwheel to walk forward
2-there is a major oil gallery just behind the camwheel that allows the camwheel to be pressure fed
3-once camwheel walks away from head, oil pressure is lost and oil volume just pours into chain case
4-engine continues to run on 13 lbs oil pressure. It takes 10 or less to activate the oil light so you will have no warning
5-cams run bone dry, and heat up cam caps to a point where they become molten
6-cam caps melt, allowing cam cap bolts to become loose
7-addition pressure is lost under TWO specific cam cap bolts, specifically the TWO used in the VTEC oil pressure test
8-engine lower end suffers pressure loss, and lower end shreds

this is from one of billmans posts

 

There was no metal in the vtec screen or anywhere else. The melting or high heat oil starved stressed head scenario that is described by Billman was not the case for my car. The shop took extra time to check/ evaluate and Adjust or reinstall and torque correctly pretty much most of the top end ... They wanted to find out why the cam gear experienced oil pressure or level loss...

They couldn't find any other signs of damage or wear.. They couldn't find exactly why the oil pressure or level was lost... It's my guess that slowly over time not checking oil levels and sometimes running low when changed over the years slowly caused damage and eventually this was the first major component to start to fail.


The entire shop was partially involved in my repair and all individually said they believe the engine is strong and will last long long time with proper maintainence.

I still would like to try to see if the bottom end is bad but how can I do this? Must it be torn down severely?