mugen/spoon thermostat and switch for my2002
#21
Originally posted by Triple-H
I totally disagree. My max operating temp is lower with the Mugen thermostat + Mugen Fan Switch + Mugen Radiator Cap.
I totally disagree. My max operating temp is lower with the Mugen thermostat + Mugen Fan Switch + Mugen Radiator Cap.
#22
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There is a drawback that I have noticed... My A/C only works while the engine is at medium rpm's (2500+ rpm). When I idle there is no cold air coming out. I would swear this never happened before my Spoon switch/thermostat.
Can anyone confirm/deny this with me?
Those mods have significantly reduced my heat soak hp losses... I have 61K miles on my S2K. I highly recommend these mods for anyone in high temp and high humidity climates.
Also.. I find that I run at two bars a lot... takes a while to get up to three bars... this doesn't affect my V-tec at all... it is common myth on this board that you need 3 bars to V-tec... that is just a litmus test to tell when you engine is warm. I can V-tec all day with two bars and no power loss. I also think people with a ODB-II scan tool have noticed that there are HUGE temp difference between the "bars".
Hope this helps...
Can anyone confirm/deny this with me?
Those mods have significantly reduced my heat soak hp losses... I have 61K miles on my S2K. I highly recommend these mods for anyone in high temp and high humidity climates.
Also.. I find that I run at two bars a lot... takes a while to get up to three bars... this doesn't affect my V-tec at all... it is common myth on this board that you need 3 bars to V-tec... that is just a litmus test to tell when you engine is warm. I can V-tec all day with two bars and no power loss. I also think people with a ODB-II scan tool have noticed that there are HUGE temp difference between the "bars".
Hope this helps...
#23
[QUOTE]Originally posted by S2K_LA
[B]Also.. I find that I run at two bars a lot... takes a while to get up to three bars... this doesn't affect my V-tec at all... it is common myth on this board that you need 3 bars to V-tec... that is just a litmus test to tell when you engine is warm.
[B]Also.. I find that I run at two bars a lot... takes a while to get up to three bars... this doesn't affect my V-tec at all... it is common myth on this board that you need 3 bars to V-tec... that is just a litmus test to tell when you engine is warm.
#24
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i myself bought the spoon r-cap thermostat and fan switch. i have talked to a few owners about this mod. they all say they can tell a few diff in the car. of course for the best. it is true that it runs better when you live in a hot humid place. i live in south florida can't get much worse than that. when i recieve the parts which i should be getting hopefuly anyday, i will let everyone know what i think. but i have one question. i know how to change the fan switch its in the clear sight right on the front of the engine. the r-cap duhh simple, but the thermostat i still can't figure out can anyone help, with some tips, anything i should know before doing the job. thanks a lot.
#25
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do the switch/radiator cap/thermostat experience actual wear?
would they need to be replaced if used for heavy tracking?
I just drive (not race) in the streets, but am looking to buy some of the parts used to save a couple of clams.
would they need to be replaced if used for heavy tracking?
I just drive (not race) in the streets, but am looking to buy some of the parts used to save a couple of clams.
#26
They don't really wear, but they can go bad. I think their life span will be determined by the condition of the coolant.
The thermostat is not really too difficult, but you will have to do a bit of mechanic-jitsu to reach it. Just follow the large radiator hose (I think on the bottom) to the middle, driver side of the block. There will be a couple bolts to remove from the thermostat housing.
Drain your coolant before doing the thermostat, cause you won't enjoy the taste! You will need 2 gallons of the Honda Type II coolant (premixed with water).
The thermostat is not really too difficult, but you will have to do a bit of mechanic-jitsu to reach it. Just follow the large radiator hose (I think on the bottom) to the middle, driver side of the block. There will be a couple bolts to remove from the thermostat housing.
Drain your coolant before doing the thermostat, cause you won't enjoy the taste! You will need 2 gallons of the Honda Type II coolant (premixed with water).
#28
I don't recall having a problem getting normal tools up in there. However, you will have to do it by feel, since you can't see up in there while your arms are up there. Use the force BlueS2000Boy.
#29
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please correct me on anything if i am wrong. you follow the main hose all the back till you get to the housing it is round in shap at the top there are three bolts. remove these and that should be it right? does anyone have any pics.
#30
There are 2 main hoses. 1 goes to the very back of the engine, where you can't even see it, and the other goes to the back of the water pump (probably about even with the #2 cylinder). The hose is clamped onto the thermostat housing. I don't think you need to pull the hose off, but I'm not certain. There are just 2 bolts holding the thermostat housing together. Once those 2 bolts are removed, the housing will open up, and the thermostat will just be sitting there. Take note of its orientation, so that you can see which way the new one goes.