Having just spent a week trying to fix a problem i have had for months now and my engine problems persist.

To recap, shortly after having a new engine fitted, i started it up one day and the oil filter (which was dented) buckled and ejected oil over the exhaust manifold. It was switched off within seconds and from that date forward i have had nothing but cold start engine issues. The colder the weather, the worse the problem seems to be. I have found a piece of black silicone inside the vtec screen filter which must have made its way into the oil system when the shoddy mechanics put the front chain cover back on having changed the crank pulser for the engine swap.

I have now started to get a P1259 error code which i believe implies low oil pressure to the vtec oil pressure circuit.

I have also noticed tiny bubbles form in the oil which are clearly visible on the dip stick. Once the car has fully warmed up and the problem stops, the bubbles disappear.

The engine revs and dies, revs and dies, accompanied from what sounds like a clicking from the timing chain area. This is an mp3 the sound it makes:

http://www.pixelloft.com/car.mp3

Since the problem started, this is what i have done to try and rectify it to no avail:

1. Removed the timing chain cover and replaced the oil gallery o-ring. Resealed with the correct Hondabond and torqued to factory torque setting.
2. Checked the Vtec solenoids electrical resistance and mechanics are operating as they should.
3. Replaced the vtec seal and bolts
4. Removed oil cooler plate and checked for blockages, and re-torqued back to factory spec
5. Replaced oil filter and torqued to factory spec
6. Removed oil pan to check for debris or blockages to the oil pickup. None were found.
7. Replaced Fan Switch
8. Replaced Thermostat
9. Replaced Coolant
10. Replaced IAC Valve
11. Replaced Map sensor
12. Replaced Throttle body
13. Replaced Catalytic Converter
14. Replaced Fuel Pressure Regulator
15. Replaced Oil 3 times
16. Removed Secondary Air injection system and replaced with Challenge delete kit (which works for UK cars)

If there are any experts on her who can help me, i would be so grateful. I think the next step has to be to replace the engine again and sell the one i have for parts. Its a real shame because the engine was on 06 with 6000 miles and it wasn't cheap.

Thanks, Nick

 

id put an oil pressure gauge on it.

but that really shouldnt have anything to do with cold start.

if you hold the throttle open a little does it stay running?

 

I think thats the next thing i'm going to do. Get an oil pressure gauge on it.

It never fully stalls, it only revs and then drops back down to normal idle rpm.

It you blip the throttle, it almost always clicks very loudly from the timing chain area.

I've only done this once or twice, but if you really rev it hard, the problem disappears quite quickly.

If you try and drive when all this is happening, the engine doesn't stall, but it has no power and it boggs and splutters and struggles to move at all.

It always smells quite strongly of fuel when all this happens. Thats why i thought the cat may be at fault and replaced it but clearly that wasn't the problem.

 

what about the fuel filter, the injectors, fuel pump relay,or maybe the fuel pump? if the injectors are clogged then it may still spray but will not be ionized the way it should and you could just get spurts of fuel and it will not burn all the fuel if not fully ionized giving off a very strong fuel smell and very little power. plus it will also throw off a lean code usually if it is severe.

 

My first hunch was that this was a fuel issue. The fuel pump primes ok, and i replaced the Fuel pressure regulator, but other than that i haven't looked into fuel related causes any further because of the bubbles in the oil, the P1259 vtec oil pressure cel and the fact that the problem started just before the old oil filter burst off.

The fuel filter/ fuel pump was replaced about 10,000 miles ago. Maybe i should look into the possible fuel related causes further, but as you said, would i not get a very different CEL?

 

What about the cpk, and cam angle sensors? If the timing is off, or the teeth on the sensor rings are damaged, the motor may be confusing itself when it tries to adjust timing. You could also have a warped component that doesn't seal until it's hot.

 

The Crank Pulser and Cam Pulsers all look mint. I just had the timing chain cover off yesterday and the crank pulser is like new. It doesn't look like it matters which way round it goes does it?

I'll look into this further, thanks.

 

I think someone needs to trouble-shoot the problem and not just throw parts at it.

- If it was me for instance, I'd first check the fuel pressure when cold.
Fix it if it's not correct.

- Then I'd take the aircleaner off and have someone start it while I squirt some carb cleaner into the throttlebody. If it smooths out and runs, it suggests it's lean in open loop mode.

It it's lean in open loop and the fuel pressure is correct, I'd probably check for manifold vacuum leaks. Especially since the motor has been replaced. Carb cleaner is useful for that. Spray around the throttle body and where the manifold bolts to the motor. If it smooths out, you found your leak.

If you have an EGR, I'd look to see if the EGR is leaking into the intake. That'll make it lean too.

If it makes no difference, I'd start looking at the ignition system.

Maybe you've had people trouble-shoot it but, there's not one part of you posts that says "troubleshoot". All I see is parts replacement (which ain't trouble-shooting).

When the engine is warm, I'd examine the long and short term fuel trims. If they're way off, >5% maybe. That suggests a vacuum leak too. Once the engine is in closed loop (when warm) it can adjust for a vacuum leak by adding more fuel.

 

Thanks for the advice. I did start out by trouble shooting. I got a vacuum gauge and the vac readings on cold and warm were within manufacturer specs. I also sprayed a whole can of carb cleaner looking for a vac leak when the problem first developed and it had no effect. I don't have an EGR on the engine.

I'll do this next as well as checking the oil pressure.

I have taken it to 3 garages and each time they start is on cold start when i leave it over night they either tell me it started with no problems or they tell me it is probably the iac valve. I tell them i have replaced it and they scratch their heads and send me away. I wish i had a good garage/ dealership that i could trust.

I'll look into this. I'm not sure how to examine fuel trims but i shall work it out. Thanks for the advice.

 

I can hook my code scanner up and see long and short term fuel trims. Honestly though, it's sounding more like a spark issue if the carb cleaner did nothing. Since the motor's been in and out, I'd check every ground while I was at it too.

I might throw a 'scope on the TDC and CAM sensor signals at the ECU connectors and see if they're clean or dirty. It the timing chain tension isn't correct, you might get a scattered spark.