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Looks like I have the issue that some other owners have - the flange mount for the upper A-arms (control arms as some like to call them) have come off a couple of their spot welds at the bottom portion of the flange. What kind of welding should I look for - MIG, TIG, arc, something else? Rough idea of cost? Can you share pics of satisfied repairs?
There is a TSB from Honda way back when it started happening.
I had my AP1 prophylactically MIG welded upper A arms. Cost me about $50 since I did ALL the prep work- removed A arms, stripped the metal in preparation for welding. The welder guy literally pulled up with his truck, started the welder engine, and in 15 minutes was done. I then primed, painted, undercoated, and never thought about it again.
Thanks. I assume you used an angle grinder to get the old undercoating off? What did you do regarding the brake line that runs next to the flange? Did you remove the line or did he put some cover over it to protect it from absorbing heat?
Before you start stripping the coat.....you need to unclip, unscrew, and move the brake line out of its holster. REMOVE the ABS wire completely.
I stripped it with an angle grinder and cone shape coarse wire brush head (don't use a flapper).
wear a mask or respirator.
I MIG welded it myself.
I coated the hell out of it with POR15 epoxy.
I then used automotive seam sealer to seal all the welds/gaps.
Then top coated it with black (urethane?) brush on chassis paint.
I'll try to find the "during" photos.....but here is the end result...
Obviously, I would never drive the car in snow or salt after doing this. All the coating that was burned off inside the frame rail is impossible to re-coat by traditional means.
And....definitely keep a fire extinguisher handy
Last edited by B serious; May 28, 2020 at 07:14 PM.
There is a TSB from Honda way back when it started happening.
I had my AP1 prophylactically MIG welded upper A arms. Cost me about $50 since I did ALL the prep work- removed A arms, stripped the metal in preparation for welding. The welder guy literally pulled up with his truck, started the welder engine, and in 15 minutes was done. I then primed, painted, undercoated, and never thought about it again.
good luck
darcy
How much of the suspension did you take off, just the upper A arms or the entire front suspension?
How much of the suspension did you take off, just the upper A arms or the entire front suspension?
oh, boy, its been 9 or 10 years now...I removed the upper A arm, bolts, damper/spring. I can't recall what I did with the brake line, but I think the welder was able to isolate it and the heat wasn't an issue. The photo by B serious about sums it up, although I didn't remove the lower A arm/knuckle. I also welded both the the inner and outer portion of the mount.
@WarrenW -- if I recall correctly, the issue was primarily discovered (and isolated to) track or autocross cars with high-grip, race tires or slicks?
Can you confirm your driving habits that have led you to see the damage to your factory welds? I'm curious if the problem is more widespread now, or if age will be a factor.
@WarrenW -- if I recall correctly, the issue was primarily discovered (and isolated to) track or autocross cars with high-grip, race tires or slicks?
Can you confirm your driving habits that have led you to see the damage to your factory welds? I'm curious if the problem is more widespread now, or if age will be a factor.
From what I've read the issue was related to ax/track use and I used to to a lot of ax but haven't in some years, I've also done several track days but it wasn't that many and it was also some years ago. I remember reading about the issue maybe around 2008, 2010 somewhere around there and I always kept an eye on it whenever I had the wheels off but haven't noticed it til now. It could be the ax/track use coupled with road conditions and maybe even age. Mine is 19yrs old now..