Need AEM EMS Help!
Dan,
Swap the 4th coil pack with another one. If the same coil pack still heats up, its most likely bunk . . . time to scroung one quickly.
if the new coil pack starts to heat up, i'm guessing there is a short (or worse) somewhere.
- Josh
Swap the 4th coil pack with another one. If the same coil pack still heats up, its most likely bunk . . . time to scroung one quickly.
if the new coil pack starts to heat up, i'm guessing there is a short (or worse) somewhere.
- Josh
Also, I know you switched some sensors (TPS?, MAP?) to be compatible with the ITB's. Which ones are they, and would this prevent starting with the OEM EMS?
If the new sensors output the same voltage at start-up time, it would be nice to eliminate the AEM unit from consideration.
If the new sensors output the same voltage at start-up time, it would be nice to eliminate the AEM unit from consideration.
Thread Starter
Former Moderator

Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 13,831
Likes: 2
From: Paradise Valley, AZ miss NYC
We switched coil packs it doesn't matter which one is placed in the 4th position it always heats up. Here is the problem, as soon as I turn the key to the on position it heats up with the AEM EMS. But with the stock ECU, it doesn't. So you would assume it's an EMS problem. But, the 1 through 3 connectors read 11.5 volts, but the 4th reads 8 volts only. We've tested the continuity and it reads fine. We then tested the EMS in another S2000 and the volts read normal 11.5 to 12 in all 4. So if it was an EMS problem it should have carried over. With the stock ECU in it reads fine as well. So I am stumped.
I've tried the Mugen ECU, Stock ECU, and EMS none of them is sending any fuel pressure at this point. As fr the sensors TPS and MAP are still there. Remember I have driven at least 50 miles with the set-up and it worked fine until I went to check on it yesterday. We were even able to fire it up for 5 mins today. But once we shut it off we haven't been able to get it up again since about 10am today.
I've tried the Mugen ECU, Stock ECU, and EMS none of them is sending any fuel pressure at this point. As fr the sensors TPS and MAP are still there. Remember I have driven at least 50 miles with the set-up and it worked fine until I went to check on it yesterday. We were even able to fire it up for 5 mins today. But once we shut it off we haven't been able to get it up again since about 10am today.
wow, sounds like you've followed the same route I would to get to the root cause.
Try measuring the resistance in the leads to the 4th coil (both with the ignition on and off) and compare that to the others. Maybe the AEM does "something different" at power-on time than the other ECU's and is simply manifesting the issue sooner. I'd suspect it almost has to be a wiring issue ?.?.
Another couple of ideas . . Is the car driveable with the other ECU's (like the mugen)? this would almost certainly eliminate wiring.
Is the plug shorted - in other words will the coil overload when pulled off the plug? Tried swapping these yet?
I'm rooting for you.
Try measuring the resistance in the leads to the 4th coil (both with the ignition on and off) and compare that to the others. Maybe the AEM does "something different" at power-on time than the other ECU's and is simply manifesting the issue sooner. I'd suspect it almost has to be a wiring issue ?.?.
Another couple of ideas . . Is the car driveable with the other ECU's (like the mugen)? this would almost certainly eliminate wiring.
Is the plug shorted - in other words will the coil overload when pulled off the plug? Tried swapping these yet?
I'm rooting for you.
Thread Starter
Former Moderator

Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 13,831
Likes: 2
From: Paradise Valley, AZ miss NYC
No car isn't driveable, I can't get any fuel pressure at all at this point. The fuel pump isn't turning on. I am wondering if switching ECUs has somehow shorted out my immobolizer system which is now preventing the fuel pump to turn on. Because even with the stock ECU I no longer get the immobolizer key flashing at start-up. If that's the case I am hosed. You can't measure anything with the power off. The helms manual specifically tells you to measure with power on and start button pushed in.
We haven't tried swapping the 4th plug yet. I guess that could be an issue.
Has anyone else used the basemap from AEM 1012.V1.03.cal? http://forum.aempower.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?t=6107 If someone can download it and use it just to see if their 4th coil gets hot. I'd appreciate it. All you need to do is upload the config and turn the key to the on position, then touch the top of the 4th coil pack. If you feel it get hot after 30 seconds then I'll know it's the software, that's causing a problem. No need to press the start button.
We haven't tried swapping the 4th plug yet. I guess that could be an issue.
Has anyone else used the basemap from AEM 1012.V1.03.cal? http://forum.aempower.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?t=6107 If someone can download it and use it just to see if their 4th coil gets hot. I'd appreciate it. All you need to do is upload the config and turn the key to the on position, then touch the top of the 4th coil pack. If you feel it get hot after 30 seconds then I'll know it's the software, that's causing a problem. No need to press the start button.
Bump for the situation....If for any reason anyone can't reach Dan's cell, please call mine at *removed* and I will contact him with any info. I'll be at the shop with lots of S2000's today so if you need any readings I can do some checking. Quick question...What year is the car you tried the AEM unit on (Arnold's)? I wonder if there's some difference between his and your 00. I've got an 00 sitting at the shop if you need...
which fuse are you referring to under the hood. I checked each in the car and visually checked each adjacent to the battery and they seem to be fine. The car started up earlier in the day but was running severely rich. The plugs were then swapped out and cleaned but no luck now. As stated the voltage going to the 4th coil is low, but also very high going across pin 3 in the connector itself. There is supposed to be less than one volt going to this pinand we have about 3.5v, which causes the coild to heat up even when switched. The AEM was connected to my car and the voltage reading to the coil packs read fine.
There is no noise from the fuel pump. Does anyone know if the immoblizer kills the pump? Also Dans car is draining the battery very quickly even when using the jumper cable? Any thoughts on why.
Is there any relays that we could check?
There is no noise from the fuel pump. Does anyone know if the immoblizer kills the pump? Also Dans car is draining the battery very quickly even when using the jumper cable? Any thoughts on why.
Is there any relays that we could check?






