New (to me) 2002 AP1 S2000 Thoughts and Questions
11-02-2016, 04:44 PM
#11
We have almost identical cars. I bought my '02 a year ago, Suzuka Blue, 90k miles, engine number 10233xx.
It was in great shape mechanically, a few blemishes exterior, but very clean.
Mine was a little sluggish at first. Plugs were crap. New plugs were night and day difference.
I found this site and went to work on the car.
Here is my maintenance log if you're interested.
Engine Oil - Replaced 8/28/15, 90,600mi.
Used Valvoline 10w-30 non syn. 5qts including filter. -
Oil Filter - Replaced 8/28/15, 90,600mi.
Bosch 3312 / Fram PH7317 /
Transmission Oil - Replaced 8/28/15, 90,600mi.
used Honda Manual Transmission Fluid (MTF)
Differential Oil - Replaced 8/28/15, 90,600mi.
SAE 90, API GL5 or GL6
used Mobil1 75W90 synthetic gear oil
Spark Plugs - Replaced 8/28/15, 90,600mi.
Platinum tipped. NGK PFR7G-11 gap to .04" (1.1 mm)
Cabin Air Filter - Replaced 8/28/15, 90,600mi.
Serpentine Belt - Replaced 8/28/15, 90,600mi.
Air Filter - Replaced 8/28/15, 90,600mi.
Wiper Blades - Replaced 8/28/15, 90,600mi.
Re-torque Rear Axle Nuts - 9/2/15
Brake fluid DOT3 - 12/20/15
Timing Chain Tensioner - replace - 1/23/16 Billman unit.
Adjust Valves and new gasket - 1/23/16
Valve retainers OK. Valve lash way out of adjustment.
It was in great shape mechanically, a few blemishes exterior, but very clean.
Mine was a little sluggish at first. Plugs were crap. New plugs were night and day difference.
I found this site and went to work on the car.
Here is my maintenance log if you're interested.
Engine Oil - Replaced 8/28/15, 90,600mi.
Used Valvoline 10w-30 non syn. 5qts including filter. -
Oil Filter - Replaced 8/28/15, 90,600mi.
Bosch 3312 / Fram PH7317 /
Transmission Oil - Replaced 8/28/15, 90,600mi.
used Honda Manual Transmission Fluid (MTF)
Differential Oil - Replaced 8/28/15, 90,600mi.
SAE 90, API GL5 or GL6
used Mobil1 75W90 synthetic gear oil
Spark Plugs - Replaced 8/28/15, 90,600mi.
Platinum tipped. NGK PFR7G-11 gap to .04" (1.1 mm)
Cabin Air Filter - Replaced 8/28/15, 90,600mi.
Serpentine Belt - Replaced 8/28/15, 90,600mi.
Air Filter - Replaced 8/28/15, 90,600mi.
Wiper Blades - Replaced 8/28/15, 90,600mi.
Re-torque Rear Axle Nuts - 9/2/15
Brake fluid DOT3 - 12/20/15
Timing Chain Tensioner - replace - 1/23/16 Billman unit.
Adjust Valves and new gasket - 1/23/16
Valve retainers OK. Valve lash way out of adjustment.
11-02-2016, 08:01 PM
#12
Mig,
Check out the Metro New York and the Upstate New York forums. Metro is pretty active with drives and such. Both are pretty active with track days. SCDA, NASA-NE, Northeast Track Days and CHIN are all S2000 friendly for track days.
I've been running Amsoil 75-90 differential fluid for a few years because it is readily available and I only put less than 3,000 miles per year on my car. But I plan to change over the LE 1605 this fall. It's very expensive but you can order through Rick's Signature Accessories. I'm thinking that my differential is loud and that the LE 1605 will improve the noise.
Check out the Metro New York and the Upstate New York forums. Metro is pretty active with drives and such. Both are pretty active with track days. SCDA, NASA-NE, Northeast Track Days and CHIN are all S2000 friendly for track days.
I've been running Amsoil 75-90 differential fluid for a few years because it is readily available and I only put less than 3,000 miles per year on my car. But I plan to change over the LE 1605 this fall. It's very expensive but you can order through Rick's Signature Accessories. I'm thinking that my differential is loud and that the LE 1605 will improve the noise.
Last edited by blueosprey90; 11-02-2016 at 08:10 PM.
11-02-2016, 08:05 PM
#13
There isn't really a "VTEC kick"...but it is noteable how the engine climbs progressively from 6k to 9k RPM.
Fluids can be argued all day. I use mine for a lot of track time...and its an almost-daily during summer. Mine is a MY00 with 86K that I have owned for 10 years.
It doesn't burn oil at any appreciable rate.
I have used everything from M1 to Castrol GTX....and have been using Castrol Syntec since about 5 years or so. Seems like lots of people have had good luck with syntec (black bottle) 10W30. 0W40 is another good grade of syntec.
I use Torco MTF in my trans and Torco RGO in the diff. I change every year or more (depending on the amount of track days).
I use Castrol GTLMA or ATE for the brakes.
Good luck and have fun.
Fluids can be argued all day. I use mine for a lot of track time...and its an almost-daily during summer. Mine is a MY00 with 86K that I have owned for 10 years.
It doesn't burn oil at any appreciable rate.
I have used everything from M1 to Castrol GTX....and have been using Castrol Syntec since about 5 years or so. Seems like lots of people have had good luck with syntec (black bottle) 10W30. 0W40 is another good grade of syntec.
I use Torco MTF in my trans and Torco RGO in the diff. I change every year or more (depending on the amount of track days).
I use Castrol GTLMA or ATE for the brakes.
Good luck and have fun.
11-03-2016, 02:46 AM
#14
I wonder why there is a difference between S2000's?
11-03-2016, 03:32 AM
#15
Wow, thanks for all the info! This is exactly what I was looking for...folks who have used multiple products, with similar intended use as me, and could give first hand recommendations.
I only have 500 miles on the current oil as the previous owner hadn't driven it for a while. I would like to get a data point for oil consumption before I change anything. I believe right now it's got 10W-30 Valvoline Synpower. In terms of new motor oil, I will probably run Mobil 1 0W-40. Should be better lubricating during warmup, and offer better hot protection for high RPM use. I can share that with the Z06, and buy in bulk (several 5 gallon jugs) right at the local Walmart...done deal.
Tranny and Diff Fluid...the jury is still out. I went to my local Honda dealer and priced the Honda MTF at arount $6/quart...sounds pretty cheap. I appreciate the info and the recommendation for Amsoil and Torco, I've heard of both of these brands before. Not really sure the best place to buy those. I've never heard of Rick's Signature Accessories or LE gear oil before this thread. Also, is there a benefit to running 110 weight vs 90 weight? I know the service manual recommends 90 weight, but all the synthetics now are multi-weights (75W-90). Should I run a little heavier oil like 75W-110.
Also, a great post by lesnev2000. I would like to check the valve adjustment, and while I'm in there put new AP2 Intake spring retainers. Will this car need a special valve spring compressor? I'm also thinking that I might as well replace valve springs while I'm in there. Those things take a lot of abuse and the technology for them has come very far in the past 20 years.
As far as VTEC kicking in, I am just not sure because this is the only one I've driven (ridden in a few, but it's a different experience). I notice a difference in sound and the revs do climb faster, but so will any high performance/high-lift cam N/A motor (comparing to my LS6 and LS7, 4k rpms all hell breaks loose, but they are not variable cammed...they just have big factory bump sticks). And the kick is NOTHING like a turbo coming on boost (I've owned a Z32 300ZX TT and a 98 Eclipst GS-T). I'm sure my car is running fine (I have service records over an inch thick from the previous owner), but I just wanted to make sure this is normal. What's weird is some people think it's a big kick, others say it's subtle. As long as my car is healthy, put me in the latter category.
I also will be putting up the all-season tires that are on there right now for sale. Really nice Michelin PS AS/3 with about 3k miles on them. I will be going on a few fall rides with them while I get a feel for the car. But this is not a inclement weather car or a DD for me, so I will be putting on some summer rubber in the near future.
I only have 500 miles on the current oil as the previous owner hadn't driven it for a while. I would like to get a data point for oil consumption before I change anything. I believe right now it's got 10W-30 Valvoline Synpower. In terms of new motor oil, I will probably run Mobil 1 0W-40. Should be better lubricating during warmup, and offer better hot protection for high RPM use. I can share that with the Z06, and buy in bulk (several 5 gallon jugs) right at the local Walmart...done deal.
Tranny and Diff Fluid...the jury is still out. I went to my local Honda dealer and priced the Honda MTF at arount $6/quart...sounds pretty cheap. I appreciate the info and the recommendation for Amsoil and Torco, I've heard of both of these brands before. Not really sure the best place to buy those. I've never heard of Rick's Signature Accessories or LE gear oil before this thread. Also, is there a benefit to running 110 weight vs 90 weight? I know the service manual recommends 90 weight, but all the synthetics now are multi-weights (75W-90). Should I run a little heavier oil like 75W-110.
Also, a great post by lesnev2000. I would like to check the valve adjustment, and while I'm in there put new AP2 Intake spring retainers. Will this car need a special valve spring compressor? I'm also thinking that I might as well replace valve springs while I'm in there. Those things take a lot of abuse and the technology for them has come very far in the past 20 years.
As far as VTEC kicking in, I am just not sure because this is the only one I've driven (ridden in a few, but it's a different experience). I notice a difference in sound and the revs do climb faster, but so will any high performance/high-lift cam N/A motor (comparing to my LS6 and LS7, 4k rpms all hell breaks loose, but they are not variable cammed...they just have big factory bump sticks). And the kick is NOTHING like a turbo coming on boost (I've owned a Z32 300ZX TT and a 98 Eclipst GS-T). I'm sure my car is running fine (I have service records over an inch thick from the previous owner), but I just wanted to make sure this is normal. What's weird is some people think it's a big kick, others say it's subtle. As long as my car is healthy, put me in the latter category.
I also will be putting up the all-season tires that are on there right now for sale. Really nice Michelin PS AS/3 with about 3k miles on them. I will be going on a few fall rides with them while I get a feel for the car. But this is not a inclement weather car or a DD for me, so I will be putting on some summer rubber in the near future.
11-03-2016, 05:42 AM
#16
Plenty of qualified proper weight oils you can use. More important to maintain level and change at recommended intervals. Also, I think the OEM Honda oil & air filters are a good way to go.
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda...ype=automotive
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda...ype=automotive
11-03-2016, 06:25 AM
#17
Plenty of qualified proper weight oils you can use. More important to maintain level and change at recommended intervals. Also, I think the OEM Honda oil & air filters are a good way to go.
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda...ype=automotive
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda...ype=automotive
11-03-2016, 06:51 AM
#18
You might find the first post on this thread useful. I believe that the LE 1605 is the replacement for the LE 607 referenced in the post. See the last post in the thread.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-un...ff-oil-185775/
After posting up my reply last night, I ordered some LE 1605 directly off the Lubrication Engineers website. It was less expensive than Ricks and looks like they changed the bottle. Not sure about the shipping cost, but Rick's shipping wasn't cheap by any means.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-un...ff-oil-185775/
After posting up my reply last night, I ordered some LE 1605 directly off the Lubrication Engineers website. It was less expensive than Ricks and looks like they changed the bottle. Not sure about the shipping cost, but Rick's shipping wasn't cheap by any means.
Last edited by blueosprey90; 11-03-2016 at 06:58 AM.
11-03-2016, 06:58 AM
#19
I buy a whole lot of OEM filters and drain plug washers at one time from bernardiparts.com
I use OEM filters because of the way they seal to prevent leaks/engine fires/engine failure. For that reason...they are not able to *properly* be installed by hand unless you've got an actual gorilla doing it. Properly meaning torqued to spec or 7/8 turn from contact.
Using a multi weight gear oil is fine. Or I think you can buy 90 weight at Honda Motorcycle stores. I buy Torco 80W90 on Amazon. I also buy Torco MTF on amazon.
I've never done a used oil ANALysis. But my trans oil seems to resist "notching up" after multiple track days using Torco. Torco was recommended to me OVER honda MTF by a Honda trans builder.
Mobil1 75W90 is another diff oil people seem to have had luck with. It worked fine on my wife's AP2. Nothing to report except that it came out ridiculously clean after 15k miles. I was amazed.
FWIW, Belgian made Castrol 0W40 (engine oil) is like $22/5qts on Amazon right now. I believe that this has a similar formulation to Castrol's famous "GC" 0W30. Something about being extremely shear stable, with some additive that is used in racing gear oils?? IDK. It's worked really well for my K series cars (ITR and TSX) and my wife's AP2.
As far as VTEC kick goes...there are many factors at play. The F series' "kick" isn't as "kicky" as like...a B16 or something, which dramatically takes a power dip as its tiny primary cam wheezes out at 5K RPM...so once the secondary turns on...BAM, you're rolling again.
Or people have intakes/exhausts that magnify the audible effect...and to some extent, the feeling.
Gear and load also matter. Try this:
-Remove the airbox lid. Dont worry. its just a lid . the filter is still there.
-Drive the car in 2nd gear at like 3K RPM (20 mph?)
-Floor it all the way to redline.
Notice it now? yes.
I use OEM filters because of the way they seal to prevent leaks/engine fires/engine failure. For that reason...they are not able to *properly* be installed by hand unless you've got an actual gorilla doing it. Properly meaning torqued to spec or 7/8 turn from contact.
Using a multi weight gear oil is fine. Or I think you can buy 90 weight at Honda Motorcycle stores. I buy Torco 80W90 on Amazon. I also buy Torco MTF on amazon.
I've never done a used oil ANALysis. But my trans oil seems to resist "notching up" after multiple track days using Torco. Torco was recommended to me OVER honda MTF by a Honda trans builder.
Mobil1 75W90 is another diff oil people seem to have had luck with. It worked fine on my wife's AP2. Nothing to report except that it came out ridiculously clean after 15k miles. I was amazed.
FWIW, Belgian made Castrol 0W40 (engine oil) is like $22/5qts on Amazon right now. I believe that this has a similar formulation to Castrol's famous "GC" 0W30. Something about being extremely shear stable, with some additive that is used in racing gear oils?? IDK. It's worked really well for my K series cars (ITR and TSX) and my wife's AP2.
As far as VTEC kick goes...there are many factors at play. The F series' "kick" isn't as "kicky" as like...a B16 or something, which dramatically takes a power dip as its tiny primary cam wheezes out at 5K RPM...so once the secondary turns on...BAM, you're rolling again.
Or people have intakes/exhausts that magnify the audible effect...and to some extent, the feeling.
Gear and load also matter. Try this:
-Remove the airbox lid. Dont worry. its just a lid . the filter is still there.
-Drive the car in 2nd gear at like 3K RPM (20 mph?)
-Floor it all the way to redline.
Notice it now? yes.
Last edited by B serious; 11-03-2016 at 07:02 AM.
11-03-2016, 07:51 AM
#20
More excellent replies. Where to start...
So, I read that first post and it was very informative. It actually validates my thoughts on 75W-90 vs straight 90W. I wouldn't mind running slightly heavier diff oil... It seems like the S2000 diff isn't exactly bulletproof, so I would like to help it as much as possible. I looked on LEs website and it looks like the 1605 is a 110W oil. I would give it a try.
I also will probably be doing blackstone oil analyses. I've done them on my Z06 motor oil, but I didn't know they would analyze trans and diff oils as well. Might be worth a try, but 3 fluids (motor, trans, diff) at $30 per pop might start to get expensive. And I'm not even sure blackstone has a large database for S2000 trans and diff fluid from which to compare. But on the other hand, I'm an objective data person. Eh...it's something to think about.
For the trans, I'm leaning toward Amsoil or Torco. A lot of people seem to talk about notchiness as the tell-tale sign a fluid is degrading. Once again, this is the first S2000 I've driven, so I can't compare. The real test will be the feeling after a fluid change, and if there is any degradation in "buttery smoothness." Although, I read that 2nd gear grinds are common, so that is another objective sign to lookout for.
Motor Oil, I'm basically set on Mobil 1 0W-40. GM does the same weird corporate shadiness as Honda, where they try to cover up/deny problems. One weird situation being the Mobil 1 5W-30 recommended oil for the Z06, where the standard fill in Europe is Mobil 1 0W-40. Does this sound like the Honda oil jet bolt recall situation to anyone else besides me?
The spec for the oil filter is pretty nuts, contact + 7/8 turn. Is that written anywhere? All of my cars I've ever had were oil lubed onto the gasket and turned "hand tight." I will probably go with the Honda oil filter...just order a bunch of stuff together (washers, coolant, oil filter, spring retainers etc).
Also, I will be doing a coolant flush...I think the consensus is 2 Gal of Honda coolant.
So, I read that first post and it was very informative. It actually validates my thoughts on 75W-90 vs straight 90W. I wouldn't mind running slightly heavier diff oil... It seems like the S2000 diff isn't exactly bulletproof, so I would like to help it as much as possible. I looked on LEs website and it looks like the 1605 is a 110W oil. I would give it a try.
I also will probably be doing blackstone oil analyses. I've done them on my Z06 motor oil, but I didn't know they would analyze trans and diff oils as well. Might be worth a try, but 3 fluids (motor, trans, diff) at $30 per pop might start to get expensive. And I'm not even sure blackstone has a large database for S2000 trans and diff fluid from which to compare. But on the other hand, I'm an objective data person. Eh...it's something to think about.
For the trans, I'm leaning toward Amsoil or Torco. A lot of people seem to talk about notchiness as the tell-tale sign a fluid is degrading. Once again, this is the first S2000 I've driven, so I can't compare. The real test will be the feeling after a fluid change, and if there is any degradation in "buttery smoothness." Although, I read that 2nd gear grinds are common, so that is another objective sign to lookout for.
Motor Oil, I'm basically set on Mobil 1 0W-40. GM does the same weird corporate shadiness as Honda, where they try to cover up/deny problems. One weird situation being the Mobil 1 5W-30 recommended oil for the Z06, where the standard fill in Europe is Mobil 1 0W-40. Does this sound like the Honda oil jet bolt recall situation to anyone else besides me?
The spec for the oil filter is pretty nuts, contact + 7/8 turn. Is that written anywhere? All of my cars I've ever had were oil lubed onto the gasket and turned "hand tight." I will probably go with the Honda oil filter...just order a bunch of stuff together (washers, coolant, oil filter, spring retainers etc).
Also, I will be doing a coolant flush...I think the consensus is 2 Gal of Honda coolant.
