Krazykoreankid

UPDATE: Checking some easy things like cleaning the IACV and checking coil packs and spark plugs. Noticed the coil packs looked a little dirty so I took pics and a video. Anyone know if this this is normal wear and maintainance? Or is there excessive gap causing blowback?
Link to video : https://youtu.be/LDU6n7T5Wyg

Giving some credit to this guy's s2k videos for helping me get this far: https://youtu.be/HyFf4pDQ4AA

Also, trying my hand at some touch up paint in the rough spots. It's looking pretty decent thanks to a recommendation on this forum for accurate color match touch up paint.

The thing still rattles like a wooden roller coaster so fastening panels is gonna be priority.

Saw a guy with a "Dashmat" and I was intrigued. I bought one for myself (light blue) and installed it. Fits perfectly and I love the results! It removes the glair caused from your dash off the inside of your windshield. And it prevents the plastic dash from getting brittle and sun faded!

Krazykoreankid

UPDATE: While in the shop getting new front tires installed I decided to try and identify a popping noise I heard while driving slowly and coming to a stop. I took a peek around the front suspension and rear suspension.
Uploading videos to YouTube please take a look at them and tell me if you think there's anything that is cause for concern. (I'm thinking the boots need replaced) Sorry if the video is shaky or inverted but I didn't want to get in the technicians way so I was trying to do it quickly.

https://youtu.be/EECMHHEpnXk (front suspension)

https://youtu.be/311mMfPediU (rear suspension)

Krazykoreankid

Update: even after replacing a failed ECM at a Honda dealer shop I still have a small intermittent idle fluctuation. So I pulled out my coil packs due to this annoying misfire. Most look dirty, like a spark plug seal has not seated properly and is causing blowback (I'm hoping they don't need replaced but there is no way to tell without removing the "manifold cover?"). I pulled out the spark plugs and inspected according to the forum's maintenance thread. I watched a video on how to use a spark plug gap measurer and inspected. All spark plugs are gapped according to spec at .048inches and none look burnt or oily, which seems like a good sign. I bit the bullet and just ordered 4 new AP2 coil packs, since I read on this forum that they were better, cheaper, and backwards compatible with AP1. Now just waiting for them to arrive and figure out how to better fasten down my squeaky body panels. Also still researching how to remove and replace front ball joints or arms. Looks like a ton of hard work.

windhund116

Be sure the spark plugs are torque to correct lb-ft. Around 21-24 lb-ft with clean threads.

Krazykoreankid

I think I read here that spark plugs should be torqued @ 18-21-24 ft lbs. Depending on if they are new or used or something.

bgoetz

21-24 no less

Krazykoreankid

I swear I read somewhere on the maintenance forum that 18 was acceptable, and 21 was good if u wanted to be on the safe side. I always intended to torque to 21ft/lbs but I've never screwed in spark plugs before. I'm really hoping I'm not a total noob and cross thread them or something. X_x

Chuck S

Since you've gone to a lot of trouble fit new OEM spark plugs. They come with the proper gap and a new crush washer.

According to the pen and ink change I made to my service manual last year (I suspect from a Billman note) the spark plug torque spec was increased from the original 18 lb-ft to 24 lb-ft. This is for new plugs. New plugs have anti-seize on the threads from the factory, do not add any any.

Thread the plugs by hand to avoid cross threading.

-- Chuck

Krazykoreankid

Thanks! Very informative! I'll do that

Krazykoreankid

UPDATE: in an attempt to stop this intermittent misfire issue, I've ordered, received and installed 4 new AP2 coil packs. Torqued all spark plugs to 24ft/lbs and put everything back together. Sadly the misfire is still there.
But here is the weird thing I've figured out about it.
It will usually happen and continue to fluctuate upon startup. BUT, if you drive it for 10 min or so, turn it COMPLETELY OFF, then start it back up,then the fluctuation goes away and the car runs smoothly for the rest of the day! One other thing to note, is that it doesn't stop idling at 1.5rpm even after u let it warm up and drive it. This only stops if you turn the car off and start it again. Then it idles smoothly at 1000rpm.
It's like something needs to warm up and expand or get properly lubricated for a while then everything runs fine after u restart the car.
Any ideas?
Possibly the IAC valve (which i have already cleaned).