I'm debating which shot is safer.. can't really decide..

i'm considering a 75 NX wet shot on the s2k..
my friend going to run a 100 dry shot on his LS1 WS6.

ok i've heard arguments for both..

Wet
-if the fuel solenoid fails then you will be spraying raw nitrous without any extra fuel = BOOM

-Nitrous puddling = BOOM

Dry
- Can lean out your engine too much = BOOM


Refrences



http://www.ls1tech.com/ubb/cgi-bin/...ic;f=4;t=001153

http://home.ican.net/~jsetter/nitrous.html#wet
'The cons of a wet kit are that you have a fuel 'noid and if it fails, disaster, only one N2O 'noid (if it sticks wide open, disaster), fuel is not distributed as efficiently or evenly, fuel can puddle in the intake manifold (which was never meant to flow fuel saturated air) and cause an intake backfire, bottle pressure is crucial because it affects the fuel/air ratio, if the bottle goes empty during a run or the N2O flow is stopped for any reason your car goes extremely rich, and tuning is not done by the computer. '

http://www.nitrousexpress.com/faq.html
'Q. What are the differences between a dry nozzle and a wet nozzle?
A. The "dry" system uses the factory fuel injection to enrich the nitrous introduced into the engine. The flaw with this technology is that no matter how much nitrous arrives at a certain intake port it always gets the same preset amount of fuel, or if a fuel injector becomes clogged engine damage will result. The "Wet" technology introduces a precise amount of fuel and nitrous through a high tech mixing nozzle that atomizes the fuel to microscopic proportions. This allows every cylinder to receive a precise, homogenous mixture of fuel and nitrous, thus insuring a safe, powerful increase.'

 

Well....do the calculations. With a dry shot, you're leaning out your engine EVERY SINGLE TIME YOU SPRAY.

With a wet shot, you have to wait till either of your solenoids fails. I've never heard of this happening. Or you can richen the mixture a little extra when ever the bottle goes empty, which if you use it as little as you claim you are, might happen once a month, and never if you're smart about it.

Do the math.

Blake

 

Dry does not lean out your engine everytime you spray.. instead of fuel being sprayed through the same hole as the nitrous in a wet shot.. it goes through MAF .. tricking your cars computer into releasing more fuel.. basically doing the same thing a wet shot is by delievering more fuel to compensate for the nitrous.. except by using your stock fuel system.. the main problem with that is if the stock fuel system isn't up to the task.

if it were just pure nitrous being sprayed in w/ no extra fuel to compensate dry kits would last for about 1 run

i've heard of two board members spraying 100 dry shot. the question is if they are running leaner then a wet shot would by using the stock fuel system..

also, how many fuel soliend failures and nitrous puddling have ya'll heard of? basically your screwed if that happens.

 

You aren't screwed if you have an intake backfire. It can screw you, but not always. Also, the wet shot sprays enough fuel to compensate for the NOS, so of course you'll be running leaner with a dry shot.

Plus, if the stock fuel system isn't up to the task, then you'll be running lean the entire time. So unless you have an a/f ratio, you're running the risk.

Why not get in on the direct port stage II kit groupbuy? Then you really don't have to worry.

Blake

 

Direct port is the safest... if safety is really your concern then go that route.

 

wet or dry? either can be direct port

 

All direct port kits I have ever seen are wet.

Blake

 

If you want lots of specific information about design, installation, tuning and everything else you want to know about nitrous, read SPORTS COMPACT NITROUS INJECTION by Joe Pettitt.

 

for a pretty good explanation of dry/wet/direct port nitrous systems, take a look at this site . All direct port nitrous systems are wet by nature, because they spray the nitrous and fuel in each intake runner, well past the fuel injectors.

Matt

 

I've never heard of or seen a direct port dry kit either... kind of defeats the purpose (to some extent) of going direct port. A direct port set up is done by drilling a hole into each intake runner. A nozzle is inserted into that hole which has two incoming outlets... one for fuel and one for nitrous. By doing this you can insure that each cylinder gets exactly the right amount of fuel and nitrous. Definitely the best way to go and will get HUGE powe gains.