OEM clutch replacement cost
#11
Back from the dead.
I am now in need of replacing my clutch. i have just found myself with the harsh reality that this things do not cost the same as my old civics clutch!
my questions here is if anybody can help me,
My S besides a K&N filter and a straight pipe , is stock. (04 AP2 45k miles)
i did remove the clutch delay....
I don't do much more racing at all except for hitting VTEC at regular basis, on the street.
I am thinking i should just stick with 100% OEM clutch kit... what do you think? would i save some money this way?
My second question is, I have heard over the years that AP1 flywheels are lighter than AP2, is this true? is this a significant difference? if so, does AP1 flywheels bolts on to AP2s?
thanks a lot guys for the help.
I am now in need of replacing my clutch. i have just found myself with the harsh reality that this things do not cost the same as my old civics clutch!
my questions here is if anybody can help me,
My S besides a K&N filter and a straight pipe , is stock. (04 AP2 45k miles)
i did remove the clutch delay....
I don't do much more racing at all except for hitting VTEC at regular basis, on the street.
I am thinking i should just stick with 100% OEM clutch kit... what do you think? would i save some money this way?
My second question is, I have heard over the years that AP1 flywheels are lighter than AP2, is this true? is this a significant difference? if so, does AP1 flywheels bolts on to AP2s?
thanks a lot guys for the help.
#12
Yes, AP1 flywheel is much lighter than AP2 flywheel. I think it is 14lbs vs 21lbs (approximately). The dimensions are the same so they are interchangable. I prefer AP1 flywheel in my AP2 - I find that the heavier flywheel causes my pressure plate to not have enough "clamping" pressure when shifting at high rpm resulting in slippage. Buy online to save money. I bought mine from majestichonda.com.
#13
i replaced my clutch like a month ago. with an act stg 1. it was 500 for the pressure plate and clutch but unfortunately you have to buy the pilot bearing. but you can buy that pretty cheap. all in all i spent 650 for everything... when i called honda, they wanted 1k for oem and 800 for aftermarket...that didn't include install.
#15
Registered User
i contacted my local honda and the labor quote was $738. i can afford to have the car on jackstands in the garage for a while for that price, turtle slow by me will be much better than getting anal with honda...
#16
Originally Posted by gabster,Mar 4 2009, 11:44 AM
Should i go OEM OR ACT stage 1 clutch PP?
#17
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Dallas, TX
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Consider a competition clutch stage 2 - will last you much longer. Don't go too light on the flywheel, otherwise, it can chatter - the last thing you want in stop and go traffic. I've got a stage 4 in my 2004 and will be changing to ap1 flywheel and CC stage 2. It uses the same pressure plate as the stage 4 luckily.
#18
Originally Posted by p-hizzle,Mar 5 2009, 05:19 PM
Consider a competition clutch stage 2 - will last you much longer. Don't go too light on the flywheel, otherwise, it can chatter - the last thing you want in stop and go traffic. I've got a stage 4 in my 2004 and will be changing to ap1 flywheel and CC stage 2. It uses the same pressure plate as the stage 4 luckily.
The lightest i will go with is an OEM AP1 FW
and i'm leaning more towards the OEM Disk and ACT PP and OEM AP1 FW
any body here with this setup?
my car is just about 99.5% stock and is a 99.99% street driven( hard driven often though)
Also would the AP1 FW bolt straght in an AP2? no mods nessesary? as well as Disk and PP? are AP1 disk and PP the exact same as AP2s? just wanted to double check this.
thanks alot
#19
I have an eight pound Toda FW, stage2 PP, and OEM FD and have never had any problem with chatter or problems with stop and go driving (most of my miles). All the AP1 and AP2 parts are interchangable.