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Explore every single option before even thinking of opening this engine. Save the money you don't spend on this (or shipping your car from FL to CA and back for for mere "EB" carbon fiber bling as pretty as that is) for tires and track time. BTW, it's wonderful to see someone actually tracking their car and telling us about their experiences.
-- Chuck
not crazy about carbon but I wanted them to make me a CRrarri. We’ve discussed saddle brown leather seats, matching door panels, and a few other things. May just ship the seats and door cards, but that is well down the road. Like, late next year.
Allowing the smoke screen to happen can cause hydrolock. Definitely more than a nuisance and something you'll want to fix.
I ended up with a bunch of oil in my airbox. This is just what ended up in the airbox. Everything else got inhaled by the engine. That's a ton of oil.
Look in your airbox, op.
back when I had an airbox the only oil I ever saw in there was when I went a little too generous re-oiling my k&n.
On Dayton we ran anti-clockwise (pretty sure that is standard) so the high speed sweepers are left handers. At Road Atlanta the only right sweeper is turn 12, bottom of the hill, just before the start/finish. Didn’t see any smokescreen and no one mentioned anything.
got my second OA back and slight improvement, happy with that. That was with the Castrol GTX. Next read will be on the Valvoline VR1. I’m still at my standard 0.8l consumption per 1000miles (although it was slightly better with the GTX, 0.5) and because I had some GTX leftover, I decided to make a little blend. I drive my car hard and I really can’t handle letting the oil hang out at the bottom of the hatch marks. I’ve notice when checking the engine hot (stop for fuel), the difference is about 2 hatch marks, compared to cold (first thing in the morning).
check out the report, it helped put my worries at ease.
Nice report, thanks for sharing. Blackstone notes you should be able to run 5000 miles before the next oil change. Doing that and checking the next results will let you know if you want/need to go back to 3000 miles. Oil is cheap of course.
An oil change in this car can never get all the old oil out unless you lay all the parts out on the bench and use rags and Q-Tips. Comparing Service Manual chart the oil needed for an engine overhaul (5.9 US qt) to an oil change with filter (5.1 US qt) makes me believe there's most of a quart that ain't coming out with an oil change. This seems like a lot of residual oil in the engine during an oil change -- and a lot of rags and Q-Tips to get it out. Anyone?
Nice report, thanks for sharing. Blackstone notes you should be able to run 5000 miles before the next oil change. Doing that and checking the next results will let you know if you want/need to go back to 3000 miles. Oil is cheap of course.
An oil change in this car can never get all the old oil out unless you lay all the parts out on the bench and use rags and Q-Tips. Comparing Service Manual chart the oil needed for an engine overhaul (5.9 US qt) to an oil change with filter (5.1 US qt) makes me believe there's most of a quart that ain't coming out with an oil change. This seems like a lot of residual oil in the engine during an oil change -- and a lot of rags and Q-Tips to get it out. Anyone?
-- Chuck
I plan on running to 5000 miles. Little crazy to think I’ll have added about 4.5 liters in that amount of time. That’s basically a change! By that theory I should be able to run about 10k before doing a “change”
there was a video review on the Fumoto valve showing how much oil remains in the pan between changes. It was a lot.
Little crazy to think I’ll have added about 4.5 liters in that amount of time.
"Make-up oil added" shows 0.8qt (0.75L) each time, not 4.5L -- but that's what you told Blackstone. Next time tell them the real amount and their recommendations may change.
yeah they are going to expect to see more metals in the oil if they think the oil has more mileage on it. That affects it a lot. The acceptable ranges will be based upon mileage on the oil.
I notice very little difference in how much oil I have to put back in after a change with and without the fumoto. So I am not all that concerned about that. Granted, my car sees a lot of oil changes. Many times, hundreds of miles between changes vs thousands of miles if I am doing more track days and not driving it on the street much. When mostly street driven I go 5000 miles between changes.
I wrote Valvoline to see what they have to say. I’m on 3000 mile change intervals anyway. Price is fine.
so far I’ve been content with the Castol GTX, it has seemed to stabilize my previous oil loss (as others have stated too)
It’s only because of the OA that has me concerned with bearing wear (although not there yet).
it’s been 3k miles since my last analysis so I’ll be interested in the reading from this next one.
im going to run the VR1 10w30 full syn for 3000 miles and see how it analyses.
You're using conventional 10W30 oil, driving it at the track in hot ass Atlanta, and doing 3K mile intervals. Its not surprising if an oil analysis finds some bearing material in your oil.
Why don't you want to use synthetic?
And with track use, you should change the oil probably every 2-4 track days if that happens before the 3K mile mark.