I agree it's important to pay heed to manufacturer recommendations (... for the most part). However, there's no problem with going to a 0W30 or 5W30, especially in the colder months (ambient temp below 20C).
In the past I used Amsoil 5W30 in the colder months and 10W30 in the summer months. I actually found my S2000 runs the best with Amsoil 5W30. I tried the Series 2000 0W30, but saw no real advantage and switched back to 5W30 (the 0W30 is over $1 more expensive per quart).

 

I just got the standard 3000 oil changes until I got to 10K miles. Then I switched to Mobile 1.

As a couple people have stated above, what you use will not likely take away from the longevity, or performance of the car long term, if your oil is changed at the right interval. If you don't track your car or drag race it, just about anything will be fine. I have never tracked my car, or even done a launch in it. However, I'm just anal about a car that I plan on keeping for years and years.

I know one person here said it's a waste of money to change a synthetic too early. However, I use HAMP filter and Mobile one and still change right around 3000 miles. The way I see it, I don't care if it would last and protect until 10,000 miles. This is inexpensive piece of mind that is protecting the most expensive parts on this car, the engine internals. I would never tell someone that it's a waste of money to change your oil too often. That's like telling someone that they wash their hands too much. If it has no negative affects, and the owner can afford it, let it be.

 

Actually washing your hands to much can dry out your skin according to the girls here at work

Changing your oil every 3k won't hurt anything, but when you run expensive oil, it is a waste of money because it won't HELP anything either

If you want to maximize oil life, getting UOA's done under similar conditions of use is best.

 

The oil you use is often an unconscious choice that becomes conscious because you used it in the first cars you owned. My first hot-rod survived on Havoline and Valvoline as a kid. I'm currently using Valvoline as the last breakin fill before switching to Mobil-1.
I'm comfortable with these choices and the're available everywhere.

 

Holy metaphysical psychobabble Batman!
This is truly one of the most ridiculous things I've ever heard.
Nice job L. Ron Hubbard.

I was quite awake when I decided to use Amsoil, thank you very much. It was a thoughtful, logically based and conscious decision. It had nothing to do with unconscious desires, repressed feelings, or what oil my Dad used in his cars when I was a kid (Castrol GTX, for the record).
I spent a good amount of time researching motor oils - looking at direct testing through unbiased sources. It's called Science, not Scientology.
Amsoil is the best overall oil - especially for the money. There are other oils that test out as good or marginally better than Amsoil - they're just much more expensive. There's no value added for the cost.

With that being said, lets take a look at your unconscious decision: standard M1, in a logical manner (in comparison to Valvoline): there's only marginal wear protection benefits, there's technically no increase in drain interval (you have to go to M1 EP for that), it's only slightly more stable (NOACK volatility rating is only about 1% better), Mobil 1 flows in much colder conditions (the only real benefit), Mobil 1 costs nearly 3 times as much as Valvoline (mineral based oil). Conclusion: there's no benefit to the added cost, unless you live in an extremely cold environment.
Amsoil is superior to M1 in every respect (including M1 EP). M1 EP is much better than standard M1, but it's quite a bit more expensive (more expensive than Amsoil).

There's nothing unconscious, genetic or metaphysical about oil decisions. You either make your decision based on logical facts - or you don't.
If you base your oil "decision" on how you feel, how pretty or fancy the bottle is, if the oil comes in pretty colors, and/or how neat the commercials are - you're an idiot... and a marketers wet dream.

Hopefully you don't drive like you select your oil - unconsciously that is. There's way too much of that on the roads.

 

And your point is? Everyones opinion is what makes this forum go around.

I personally use Mobil 1 5w-30 all year around.

 

This is always an interesting and controversial question, as evident by every single post on the subject. There are always the brand loyalty offerings, and then there are the scientific offerings. I like them all...some just for entertainment though.
As I ask myself the proverbial "why is there life" (what's the best lubricant for the S2000) question, I continually ask myself why does Honda recommend 10W30 or 5W40 as an alternate motor oil, and no mention of any other weights? With a profound, pretty much across the board switch to 5w20 wt oils by every manufacturer in the industry (including Honda), they are still sticking to their guns on this recommendation for the S2000. Why is this so important? I don't really know, because Honda appears to use a 20 wt oil for the OEM fill in the S2000 and tells you not to change it out early.
Here are some of my guesses on why Honda likes the 10W30/5W40 oils for the S2000:
-In the AP1, they were concerned about oil consumption and high temperature shearing. Thicker oil viscosities have shown to improve consumption issues. Also, 10W30 and 5W40 seem to stay in grade (at least a stout 30wt) better at high temps (especially for conventional oils).
-In the AP2, oil consumption was no longer a problem. But Honda still seems to be concerned about high temp shearing, especially with conventional oils.
-Why is the OEM fill a 20 wt? I think a cost saving bean counter made this decision, and the idea was not floated by any engineers.

Off topic...I think a strong correlation can be made for why Honda recommends only SAE 90 GL5 hypoid type gear oil for the differential. Although different lubrication properties are required for a gear oil, they appear to think that being at the proper viscosity at high temps is the most important property. Multi viscosity 90 wt gear oils just can't get there.

 

slipstream444 Posted on Apr 25 2007, 10:13 AM
Really?
How about oxidation?
How about the acidic blow-by products present in every engine?
How about fuel dillution?
How about the Viscosity Index Improvers?

IOW, the additives that fight oxidation, the additives that fight the blow-by acidics that make it past the piston rings (thats why its called blow-by), the additives that help in border-line lubrication situations DO break down over time, because of the heat and maybe because of fuel dillution.
When they are gone, the base oil is next to go.
Same thing with the Viscosity Index Improvers, the additives that make the oil flow at lower temps.
When they are gone, crushed or broken, your oil turns to a single weight.

Over time every additive will break down, IMO even Amsoil's additives.

I'm not bashing Amsoil, just giving my opinion

I remember an engine oil test where they put brand X (could be Mobil) in a new engine and then they drove the car for 100.000 miles (or something), took the engine apart and showed it to the world : No Wear!
The timeline showed they drove that car non stop at a test track, no cold starts, no stop&go traffic, no every day use.
Most engine wear is at start-up, btw..

My point is that the long drain interval is good for cars that drive a lot, every day.
The time or milage car manufacturer's recommendation is there for a reason.
Sure, oils get better and better, but some chemical reactions can't be stopped.
Stopped as in, it gives me indefinite oil life (or 1.000.000 miles)
3000 mile oil change intervals are also pretty stupid IMO!

 

[QUOTE=RACER,Apr 26 2007, 04:38 AM]And your point is?

 

Another oil debate!
BITOG.2

INDYMAC Posted on Apr 26 2007, 12:17 PM
IMO this was true in 1999.
2007 group IV & V (maybe even some group III oils) ILSAC GF-4, API-MS oils stay in grade a lot better.
Honda recommends the 5W-40 for colder temps, because of the 5W.
Why not 5W-30?
Because it wasn't available in 1999 in the quality they wanted?
It sure is in 2007 (today)

Is this opinion? based on VOA's or UOA's?
If it is UOA's it just shows that group III oils (dino poo ) shear down.
Most UOA's Ive seen posted here of dino oils used in the S2000 show low wear and sheared down oil.

2007 full syn (group IV & V) 20 weights are pretty shear resistant.
Still I would not use them in my F20C2.
Not without a proper oil temp & pressure gauge.
And certainly not at the track without an oil cooler.

Besides all this, I never brand whore.

Yeah, I removed that stupid huge logo