S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Oil squirter detachment

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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 02:44 PM
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Default Oil squirter detachment

Hi, has anyone had any problem with oil squirter detachment??

Some time ago I was on the freeway with my S2000 , MY00 with about 70000 km, doing a high speed run. Suddently the engine lost strenght and the oil light came out!

Long story short: I stopped the car and towed it back to the workshop, we found out that an oil squirter had unscrewed itself and got lose on the engine!!

By a miracle the only damage was on the the spot that the squirter screws on. At the time I decided we should bolt it on again with some special high temp metal glue so it would stay in place.

So we did, and the car ran fine for about 10000kms.

The thing is, I only drive my s2000 for the weekend, and altough I'm always carefull with oil levels and letting the car warm ump before a speedy run, when I drive it I like to have some fun, so the other day disaster came, and the same simptoms occur: Engine noise and oil light up...

I've been searching the forum and I've found nothing nor anyone with this kind of problem!!

I will be opening the engine soon to check out if it's really the same problem, but I'ts highly unlikly that it's not.

So, I'me facing three choices here:

1-Get a new/used crankcase and switch everything to the good crankcase.
2-Get an used engine
3-Blank the oil squirtes and stick with my crankcase/engine.

I have about every bolt on we can get on the S2000, and was now ready to do headwork stage 1 and set up BC stage 2 cams+springs plus AEM. I'm wasn't very found off spending a big lot of € on another engine or crankcase....what do you thing I should do?

Is there any oil squirter with a larger screw size type? If there was I could re-do the screw on my crankcase to an upper size.

Please give me some info I'm kind of lost here! Thanks!!
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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by bio
Hi, has anyone had any problem with oil squirter detachment??

Some time ago I was on the freeway with my S2000 , MY00 with about 70000 km, doing a high speed run. Suddently the engine lost strenght and the oil light came out!

Long story short: I stopped the car and towed it back to the workshop, we found out that an oil squirter had unscrewed itself and got lose on the engine!!

By a miracle the only damage was on the the spot that the squirter screws on. At the time I decided we should bolt it on again with some special high temp metal glue so it would stay in place.

So we did, and the car ran fine for about 10000kms.

The thing is, I only drive my s2000 for the weekend, and altough I'm always carefull with oil levels and letting the car warm ump before a speedy run, when I drive it I like to have some fun, so the other day disaster came, and the same simptoms occur: Engine noise and oil light up...

I've been searching the forum and I've found nothing nor anyone with this kind of problem!!

I will be opening the engine soon to check out if it's really the same problem, but I'ts highly unlikly that it's not.

So, I'me facing three choices here:

1-Get a new/used crankcase and switch everything to the good crankcase.
2-Get an used engine
3-Blank the oil squirtes and stick with my crankcase/engine.

I have about every bolt on we can get on the S2000, and was now ready to do headwork stage 1 and set up BC stage 2 cams+springs plus AEM. I'm wasn't very found off spending a big lot of € on another engine or crankcase....what do you thing I should do?

Is there any oil squirter with a larger screw size type? If there was I could re-do the screw on my crankcase to an upper size.

Please give me some info I'm kind of lost here! Thanks!!
As your car is a MY00 the oil jet bolts were likely touched after the car left the factory for the 4 hole upgrade TSB. Whoever did the work stripped out one of the bolts through improper installation. It is easy to do if you are not careful. SO the bolt and squirter worked themselves loose. I would try to repair the threads on the one bolt that came loose and put a new bolt in there, and double check the torque on the other three bolts.
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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 04:37 PM
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Hi Jfusion

That was my initial thought, but I'm affraid of filling the thread to open a new one and the final result not being as reliable as it would be.

What do you think?
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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 05:01 PM
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Can you fix it with a helicoil kit.
http://www.emhart.com/brands/heli-coil

ROD
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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 05:16 PM
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I would try to run a tap through the exiting threads and see if you can clean them up first, it is a very fine thread though. If that doesn't work then possibly heli-coil it like Rrounds mentioned. You are working in a very tight environment though so you would need to find proper tools to access the area, and keep it as clean as possible to keep all shavings from going up into the oil hole.
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 01:07 PM
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There was a full recall in Europe so it is very likely the banjo boots were replaced by a dealer. Apparently they were not torqued properly. I don't think there is an up-size bolt so you may need to live with the custom fix.
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 03:44 PM
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The car is usually maked/punched somewhere after the recall. Mechanics are incpompetent.

I'd find out where it was fixed and make them pay for it. Run the VIN you'll have an answer.
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 06:05 AM
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Thank you all for your awnsers. I was not familiar with the heli-coil, will open the engine soon and see what I'll do...
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Old Jan 4, 2013 | 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by bio
Thank you all for your awnsers. I was not familiar with the heli-coil, will open the engine soon and see what I'll do...
I'm in a big trouble too. afew days ago i was on highway and my car won't go beyond 235km/h. when i stoped I could hear some knock on engine. it was on 4# cilinder. I was sure that there was rod knock and had a spun out bearing. take it to my mechanic and taked out the sump. then checked the oil banjo bolts and they were the 4 holes one's. I have a little scratch on the cilinder hall and slighty rod play side to side, not up and down. conclusion : bearings are ok no scratchs, crackshaft are ok with no scratchs , simpliy dont understand how could this hapen. one thing, the banjo bolts were overtight. what could happened if we overtight the banjo bolts??? what you think about this situation? the only thing I do was highspeed run on highway. the bolts on the rods were smelling like burned or something weird. have you ever experience anything like this???

now i started to find another short block. is there any way to ship one new short block from us to europe??
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