Oil Stabilizer
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 11,360
Likes: 1,795
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 13
Likes: 3
From: Ogden Utah
Is this a wiring fix?
Consider an Accusump by Canton Industries.
And for the love of the gods of horsepower, put in a clutch interlock bypass. Its easy and will potentially save your engine from potential catastrophic failure after many, many dry start cycles.
personally, after the car is stored over winter, I remove the fuel pump fuse, and turn the engine over WITHOUT pressing the clutch in- until the oil light goes out.
darcy
And for the love of the gods of horsepower, put in a clutch interlock bypass. Its easy and will potentially save your engine from potential catastrophic failure after many, many dry start cycles.
personally, after the car is stored over winter, I remove the fuel pump fuse, and turn the engine over WITHOUT pressing the clutch in- until the oil light goes out.
darcy
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 305
Likes: 51
From: South East Queensland Oz.
Years ago now I raced a Morgan +4. from new. They were powered by a Triumph TR3A engine. These engines chewed out the big end slipper in the cap of the conrod, if revved past 5500 RPM.
At Bathurst it would pull 6250 RPM for about 35 seconds down Conrod straight, with the highest diff available. In 6 laps of this it needed the big end slippers replaced. Other tracks were not as bad, but it needed new big end slippers every race meeting, although we were using the best racing oils available.
In desperation I tried adding STP oil treatment after some recommendations from trusted people, & a lot of research of the product. I found STP is simply ordinary oil that has been bombarded with gamma rays. This reduces the size of the oil molecule, think more smaller ball bearings. It also imparts an electrical charge making it attracted to metal with a stronger attachment. It won't drain off, & is hard to wash off. It generates a very strong boundary layer of oil on working parts.
With STP I got 4 meetings before requiring new big end slippers. But why do I tell you this.
The TR3A engine is the worst I have known for draining the oil out of the bearings, & the very large oil ways used when they converted the thing from a tractor engine to a sports car engine. If left for even a few days it rattled. After a week it would rattle for about 30 seconds while it filled the oil ways & supplied pressure to the bearings.
A beautiful surprise was the total elimination of these dry starts with the STP added. I have not run any engine without STP since.
I now have a small fleet of Triumph TRs, to go with my S2000, which can sit for weeks between uses. None ever exhibit dry start rattles with STP in their oil. I used it in my Lotus & Brabham Formula 2 cars, & in the Formula 1 Brabham Repco, with total satisfaction.
I believe Moreys uses the same technology. Since the STP patents have long expired I believe some major oil companies also use it in some of their racing oils. They feel the same as oil with STP added.
At Bathurst it would pull 6250 RPM for about 35 seconds down Conrod straight, with the highest diff available. In 6 laps of this it needed the big end slippers replaced. Other tracks were not as bad, but it needed new big end slippers every race meeting, although we were using the best racing oils available.
In desperation I tried adding STP oil treatment after some recommendations from trusted people, & a lot of research of the product. I found STP is simply ordinary oil that has been bombarded with gamma rays. This reduces the size of the oil molecule, think more smaller ball bearings. It also imparts an electrical charge making it attracted to metal with a stronger attachment. It won't drain off, & is hard to wash off. It generates a very strong boundary layer of oil on working parts.
With STP I got 4 meetings before requiring new big end slippers. But why do I tell you this.
The TR3A engine is the worst I have known for draining the oil out of the bearings, & the very large oil ways used when they converted the thing from a tractor engine to a sports car engine. If left for even a few days it rattled. After a week it would rattle for about 30 seconds while it filled the oil ways & supplied pressure to the bearings.
A beautiful surprise was the total elimination of these dry starts with the STP added. I have not run any engine without STP since.
I now have a small fleet of Triumph TRs, to go with my S2000, which can sit for weeks between uses. None ever exhibit dry start rattles with STP in their oil. I used it in my Lotus & Brabham Formula 2 cars, & in the Formula 1 Brabham Repco, with total satisfaction.
I believe Moreys uses the same technology. Since the STP patents have long expired I believe some major oil companies also use it in some of their racing oils. They feel the same as oil with STP added.
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 632
Likes: 139
If my S2000 sits for more than a few weeks I pull the fuse that disables the fuel injectors. Then I do short bumps with the starter with some breaks in between. After a half dozen or so of these, I do a few more longer cranks with brief intervals in between, so the starter doesn't overheat. After several of these the oil pressure light will go out. Replace the fuse, start her up and go for a rip!
My first year S2000 has a grand total of 45K km. I've used Molyslip oil additive since the 2nd oil change. Always used synthetic oil for it's yearly oil change, but figured the extra protection provided by the Molyslip would be a plus on a vehicle that sits between drives quite a bit, especially during our lovely winters in the great white north. Zero oil consumption and the car performs the same as the day I got it. A very wise longtime Honda tech told me he uses Molyslip in every motor he owns, including mowers, tractors, bikes, vintage cars, and daily drivers.
My first year S2000 has a grand total of 45K km. I've used Molyslip oil additive since the 2nd oil change. Always used synthetic oil for it's yearly oil change, but figured the extra protection provided by the Molyslip would be a plus on a vehicle that sits between drives quite a bit, especially during our lovely winters in the great white north. Zero oil consumption and the car performs the same as the day I got it. A very wise longtime Honda tech told me he uses Molyslip in every motor he owns, including mowers, tractors, bikes, vintage cars, and daily drivers.
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 13,829
Likes: 1,550
From: Chesterfield VA
Give me some guidance. Is this a wiring fix. Would love to turn engine over with out starting, the car sits for days.
You still need to depress the clutch pedal to avoid the risk of sending the car into the wall.
-- Chuck
Last edited by Chuck S; Sep 15, 2021 at 09:26 AM.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 7
Likes: 1
One morning he reached in through the open window, cranked it over, and sent it straight though the back roller door and into his pool.
Somebody had bumped it into 1st without him knowing...
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 8,755
Likes: 1,859
Yep, that reminds me of a neighbor here who had a Porsche 930. He used to warm it up in the garage every Sunday in winter when not using it.
One morning he reached in through the open window, cranked it over, and sent it straight though the back roller door and into his pool.
Somebody had bumped it into 1st without him knowing...
One morning he reached in through the open window, cranked it over, and sent it straight though the back roller door and into his pool.
Somebody had bumped it into 1st without him knowing...
You're contaminating oil with moisture and combustion byproducts, putting moisture into exhaust. Causing excess wear. All for...no benefit.
Engine wear is highest while oil is less than operating temp. Idling is slowest way to warm oil. Entire time its warming by idling its experiencing highest wear rate of engine life.
Unless you fully warm it up, then keep it running, you don't burn off the moisture and other volatile contaminants in oil and exhaust.
Also don't warm up car before you drive it. Start it, then drive gentle until fully warmed up.
Either drive it, or park it.
