online electronics source
does anybody know of a good source of simple electric switches online? I'm putting a kill switch on my fuel pump wire and will hide it somewhere in my car.
this is the kind of switch I had in mind...

Rated 6 amps at 125VAC
from here:
http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?cata...%5Fid=275%2D648
but the guy at Radio Shack it wouldn't work since it's AC not DC. (I know jack about electronics unfortunately). is there anywhere online you guys could recommend I shop? what about Fry's electronics?
hey xv-- I know we chatted via PM about a year ago regarding this, and I still have the print-out of your advice... just hadn't gotten around to installing the kill switch until now
(out of necessity-- I'm moving). hope you had a good visit to Cali this last time-- sorry I couldn't visit, I've been working 50+ hr work weeks with a 2-hr commute each way. 
thanks for any and all input.
this is the kind of switch I had in mind...

Rated 6 amps at 125VAC
from here:
http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?cata...%5Fid=275%2D648
but the guy at Radio Shack it wouldn't work since it's AC not DC. (I know jack about electronics unfortunately). is there anywhere online you guys could recommend I shop? what about Fry's electronics?
hey xv-- I know we chatted via PM about a year ago regarding this, and I still have the print-out of your advice... just hadn't gotten around to installing the kill switch until now
(out of necessity-- I'm moving). hope you had a good visit to Cali this last time-- sorry I couldn't visit, I've been working 50+ hr work weeks with a 2-hr commute each way. 
thanks for any and all input.
To put an interupt into any single electrical auto line, you just need a simple "ON/OFF" switch. You need this one from RadioShack:
http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?cata...4DCBB2A66DBBDE6
It's rated at HUGE amps and 12VDC. Splice this into either the power feed or ground wire of the fuel pump and you're done.
http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?cata...4DCBB2A66DBBDE6
It's rated at HUGE amps and 12VDC. Splice this into either the power feed or ground wire of the fuel pump and you're done.
You could just cut and file down the rocker lever.
On this page:
http://www.radioshack.com/category.asp?cat...CFB8E629EA0B91A
There are several other ones that has enough amperage that might work. You just need to find one that has only two pins sticking out the back. I'm looking at 731 and 730. Both of those are 25 amp, 12VDC, single pole, single throw.
On this page:
http://www.radioshack.com/category.asp?cat...CFB8E629EA0B91A
There are several other ones that has enough amperage that might work. You just need to find one that has only two pins sticking out the back. I'm looking at 731 and 730. Both of those are 25 amp, 12VDC, single pole, single throw.
This looks like what your looking for. They are called panel mount toggle switches usually used in boats:
http://www.shop.com/op/~PANEL_MOUNT_TOGGLE...9022?sourceid=3
http://www.shop.com/op/~PANEL_MOUNT_TOGGLE...9022?sourceid=3
I am an EE and do lots of my own home projects, and buy nearly all I need from Digikey.
www.digikey.com
Newark Electronics also has lots of parts.
************************************************** ******
If the kill is a simple, low-current continuity interrupt, then you do not need a high-current rated switch. It is bulky and unncessarily expensive.
************************************************** *********
A Little EE 101:
1) A 6amp @ 120 VAC switch is good for about 720 watts.
2) DC or AC switches - here, the distinction is meaningless, other than the normal operating voltage of a car is 12-14 VDC, so a 5 amp rated switch is good for 60 - 70 watts. That would be way more than needed for your application, as you have described it
3) You want a SPST - single pull, single throw switch
4) High current switching is a car is best handled through a relay - that is why horn, windows, lights, etc are relayed. Asuming your cable run (length from your switch location to the wire it is brteaking continuity for) is short, you will not need a relay, since the R (resistance) of the wire is low enough that conversion to heat is not significant.
www.digikey.com
Newark Electronics also has lots of parts.
************************************************** ******
If the kill is a simple, low-current continuity interrupt, then you do not need a high-current rated switch. It is bulky and unncessarily expensive.
************************************************** *********
A Little EE 101:
1) A 6amp @ 120 VAC switch is good for about 720 watts.
2) DC or AC switches - here, the distinction is meaningless, other than the normal operating voltage of a car is 12-14 VDC, so a 5 amp rated switch is good for 60 - 70 watts. That would be way more than needed for your application, as you have described it
3) You want a SPST - single pull, single throw switch
4) High current switching is a car is best handled through a relay - that is why horn, windows, lights, etc are relayed. Asuming your cable run (length from your switch location to the wire it is brteaking continuity for) is short, you will not need a relay, since the R (resistance) of the wire is low enough that conversion to heat is not significant.
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