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Overheating issue after removing a/c and heater lines.
Hey guys, hopefully you guys that have removed your a/c and heater lines can help me out. I just removed all of it and capped the coolant bypass water neck and the inlet on the thermostat housing Instead of making a hose and looping them. Its running fine with no leaks but the temp on the cluster just kept rising to almost max when i shut it off. Anyone else capped these inlets/outlets have this issue? Thanks for the help!
Did you bleed it? Sometimes these cars can be a hassle to bleed. I Usually let it run with the front end raised to get all the bubbles out.
what is the proper way to bleed the coolant? I had the caps off and let the engine warm up to Operating temp to see if the coolant level dropped but it stayed above the fins in the radiator so i put the caps back on. Thats when the temps didnt stop raising up..
Was the bypass pipe removed? the car will overheat without a bypass pipe and tstat installed. If you really insist on not having a bypass pipe installed, removing you tstat is the only other choice.
The tell-tale test to know if you have air pockets removed is to test for hot air blowing from the heater vents, but since you removed all that it work in your case. I bought one of those universal cooling system fill and bleed systems with the oversized funnel and various rad cap fittings, it works really well to bleed air from the system. You can get them from harbour freight or pretty much any auto supply place.
works well and is worth the $30 even if won't be used again for 5 years per the antifreeze replacement schedule. Even the newest S2000 is 10 years old and was due for it's first change in 2019 (10 years) or before.
Internal combustion engines won't run efficiently at lower temperatures and a thermostat is required to allow the engine to heat up to the designed temperature which is just about 90°C (190°F). A permanently open or removed thermostat is inefficient albeit preventing overheating. Yes, an engine can run too cold. Gum and varnish build up are common problems in engines not running at proper temperature levels.
Trivia follows: Rarely a problem with liquid cooled cars, trucks, and motorcycles or in raw water cooled boat engines in fresh water. Raw water cooled boat engines in sea water need a much cooler thermostat down around 65°C (150°F) despite inefficient engine operation to prevent salt precipitating out of solution starting at 160°F and literally filling the cooling passages with salt over time. Before the common availability of heat exchangers in inboard marine engines, which act like the radiator in cars, it was common to have to "boil out" these engines periodically to remove the salt. Seawater side of the heat exchanger stays well below 160°F. Outboards have flush ports to get rid of the salt.
Overheating issue after removing a/c and heater lines.
Rarely a problem with liquid cooled cars, trucks, and motorcycles or in raw water cooled boat engines in fresh water. Raw water cooled boat engines in sea water need a much cooler thermostat down around 65°C (150°F) despite inefficient engine operation to prevent salt precipitating out of solution starting at 160°F and literally filling the cooling passages with salt over time. Before the common availability of heat exchangers in inboard marine engines, which act like the radiator in cars, it was common to have to "boil out" these engines periodically to remove the salt. Seawater side of the heat exchanger stays well below 160°F. Outboards have flush ports to get rid of the salt.
