^This. The comb in the converter is done and the cat is pretty much dead. You will continue to throw the CEL until such time as you either replace the cat or move the sensor far enough out of the stream. You can actually leave it like that if you want as it won't hurt the car, but the CEL will stay lit up and you would need to scan often to make sure nothing else is tripping a CEL as well.

Do like many of us did - buy a test pipe and a secondary O2 sensor spacer, reset and enjoy.

 

I saw another thread in regards to a spacer - is it something I can buy at the local Autozone or will I have to order it and wait? I'm probably just going to replace the entire catalytic converter - I just want to see if I can get some more life out of this one before shelling out the dough. I believe they're also referred to as spark plug non-foulers, which Autozone does carry...

Also, is the secondary sensor necessary for good engine performance, or does it just make sure the catalytic converter is working properly?

Thanks

 

Nevermind... looks like I answered my own question here in case anyone else needs it: http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...n-foulers.html

 

So I've been putting around with my CEL on since from what I've read, the o2 sensor inside of the catalytic converter really doesn't impact engine performance.

When I originally replaced the o2 sensor, the old one was only damaged internally (I think it just wore out) but it was not physically damaged like all of the other sensors I've seen on here that have had the honeycomb come loose and wreck havoc.

Oddly enough, today the CEL just turned off on its own - could it be that I didn't do a long enough reset and the code just cleared itself? I only pulled the fuse for about 5 seconds, which did turn off the CEL after I replaced the sensor. However it popped back up within a couple of minutes after the reset (why I figured my catalytic converter was toast since this was a brand new sensor).

I've driven about 50 miles today after the light went off and it hasn't come back on again. Could it be that I just did not give it long enough with the fuse pulled to do a full reset? I'm a bit confused at this point.

Thanks in advance!

 

the drive cycle for the o2 sensor to be in a ready state is about 50 miles.

 

I had no idea it took a bit of driving for it to set itself back up again. I'll still plan on changing out the cat since it is damaged/rattling soon as to not destroy my new o2 sensor. For the time being I'll stick to primarily driving my truck anyways - since the temp outside is approaching the negatives now!

Thanks everyone.

 

For ecu to be in ready state

Page 261-262 of an AP1 manual:

Abbreviated version:
Start engine
Idle 20 seconds
Keep neutral
Increase to 2k rpms and hold for ~3 minutes.

Drive 50-60mph in 5th gear
Drive 90 seconds without moving throttle position.

Coast for several seconds without using the accelerator or brake.

 

How much space does one need to keep the sec O2 happy, IOW not produce a CEL?
Is there a difference in spacer length between (empty) test pipe and cat?

 

also be aware that 06+ ap2 have a good chance of throwing a CEL with a HFC.

@Spitfire from what i have seen people use 2 defoulers and have gotten good results. but in my 06 i have tried everything even a J hook defouler. problem with the early model ap2 is that the tune tends to produce more moisture. i know the TSB was for the primary getting damaged but in my case i always have my secondary sensor in water. when i remove it i get a good amount of water in that bung. i dont know how else to cure it. i might drill out the built in defouler on the berk to let the water drain out. thoughts anyone? sorry to thread jack but i think its relevant. if not please let me know i will delete.