i've gotten many request to see how i set up my system so here they are.... the pic where i tapped into the fuel rail isn't very clear but you get the idea.

 

I like your arming switches.

Just wonder what does that spray do?

 

I'd move that stainless braided line away from the upper radiator hose. The stainless will quickly cut just about anything it touches.

 

thanks slows2k... i'll have to take a look at it...
max geek.. thats just me purging...in other words, clearing the line of anything but nitrous... it also is a great way to get peoples attention

just for referance, i dyno'd at 253.14 on 75 shot w/ aem cai,invidia exhaust, and denso ik22's...

i have a untuned vafc that i'll be getting tuned soon along with testing different jet settings... i have another thread that shows my graphs and how rich i'm running...

thanks for the inputs

 

Thanx for explaining I was always curious.

 

A few words of advice:

1) Make sure you use copper plugs. Gap aggressively so you can get a large spark. Change them often.

2) Add a safety switch to cut off nitrous and/or fuel in case your solenoids get stuck open. Remote bottle opener would suffice. (This is from my own experience!)

3) Bottle warmer and remote pressure gauge is recommeded. The fuel flow is calibrated for a certain nitrous pressure.

 

good advice.. this is a project at work... i'm not going out spraying on the street every chance i get.. i'm building this thing up... fine tuning it and makeing it safe and reliable. i'm also getting a window switch, fuel pressure reg. remote opener, bottle warmer and lots of dyno time..

i think i'm gapped at abou .040 right now.. should i regap?

 

- lucky you didn't have to take off the manifold like I did..
- my MUTE button arms the nitrous (turns on by full throttle) and the ROOF switch opens/closes the bottle

 

Closer is probably better. With nitrous, the spark can get easily quenched. That's why copper plugs with smaller gaps are better.

Good to hear you have the right plans.

When people blow their engine with nitrous, it's usually because the solenoid get's stuck.

I had a scare once. My solenoid got stuck open slightly. Didn't even know it. My idle was fluctuating very rapidly. When I turned off my car, I could hear the nitrous shooting in my intake. I opened everything up to air out the nitrous.

Then when I started the car, it had a big kick to about 6K rpm all by itself

After that, I got my remote bottle opener and remote fuel pressure gauge to monitor the system and provide emergency shut-off. (not to mention the convience) Those solenoids (at least on the ZEX kit don't seem to be very reliable.)

Here's my set-up now...

 

where did you get that digital no2 meter??? looks good