S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

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Old Yesterday | 11:45 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by engifineer
And if the above is connected, have you monitored that wire with a meter while trying to start the car?
I just did it, came back below 12 volts, but wouldn't the starter relay still click if it was bad
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Old Yesterday | 11:55 AM
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What was the actual reading? Between 11 and 12 V, less, etc ? And you saw that while holding down the starter button? And was that testing right at the starter solenoid? Here is a clip of the wiring diagram You should have battery voltage at one side of the starter relay when the key on where shown below. Then when you press the start button, the relay should close, providing 12 to the other side and thus to the wire running to the solenoid (The small wire with the spade terminal). You should have batt voltage to the large lug on the starter all the time so when 12 v is applied to that small wire, the starter engages and spins.




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Old Yesterday | 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by engifineer
What was the actual reading? Between 11 and 12 V, less, etc ? And you saw that while holding down the starter button? And was that testing right at the starter solenoid? Here is a clip of the wiring diagram You should have battery voltage at one side of the starter relay when the key on where shown below. Then when you press the start button, the relay should close, providing 12 to the other side and thus to the wire running to the solenoid (The small wire with the spade terminal). You should have batt voltage to the large lug on the starter all the time so when 12 v is applied to that small wire, the starter engages and spins.
i got .75 volts touching the clip on the wire to the solenoid while i had someone else hold down the start button, and i always had 12 volts to the large lug, but there was no relay click
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Old Yesterday | 12:27 PM
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Ok, so really nothing is getting past the relay. Go back to the relay and check voltage and ground. Should have a good ground on the side that the clutch interlock switch is connected to (and you said yours is bypassed so should have ground regardless). Disconnect the battery and run a continuity test from that terminal to ground. Should be light blue per the wiring diagrams but always be careful as I have see wiring colors vary on some cars from the diagrams. Should be very low resistance (likely an ohm or less). If it is then you know the clutch bypass is working fine.

If that is good, connect the battery again and turn the ignition switch all the way on and test voltage at the input side of the start relay (wire that is marked ORN in that diagram, so orange if I am reading that right) . But regardless of color, you should see batt voltage to one of those terminals with the ign turned on and the start button not pressed. Then, when you press the start button you should see voltage on the other input terminal (blu/wht). The relay should also click of course if it is good. If you do not see voltage on the other terminal when you press the start button, then we go back and troubleshoot voltages at the start button.

If you see a good ground on the clutch bypass side of the relay, and 12V on the 2 input terminals of the relay when ign is on and holding the start button and the relay is not actuating, you may have a bad start relay.

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Old Yesterday | 01:30 PM
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Did you check this relay? Right? Starter cut relay.

Starter cut/relay.
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Old Yesterday | 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by windhund116


Did you check this relay? Right? Starter cut relay.

Starter cut/relay.
yes i tested it and i got a brand new one and it didnt rectify the issue
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Old Yesterday | 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by engifineer
Ok, so really nothing is getting past the relay. Go back to the relay and check voltage and ground. Should have a good ground on the side that the clutch interlock switch is connected to (and you said yours is bypassed so should have ground regardless). Disconnect the battery and run a continuity test from that terminal to ground. Should be light blue per the wiring diagrams but always be careful as I have see wiring colors vary on some cars from the diagrams. Should be very low resistance (likely an ohm or less). If it is then you know the clutch bypass is working fine.

If that is good, connect the battery again and turn the ignition switch all the way on and test voltage at the input side of the start relay (wire that is marked ORN in that diagram, so orange if I am reading that right) . But regardless of color, you should see batt voltage to one of those terminals with the ign turned on and the start button not pressed. Then, when you press the start button you should see voltage on the other input terminal (blu/wht). The relay should also click of course if it is good. If you do not see voltage on the other terminal when you press the start button, then we go back and troubleshoot voltages at the start button.

If you see a good ground on the clutch bypass side of the relay, and 12V on the 2 input terminals of the relay when ign is on and holding the start button and the relay is not actuating, you may have a bad start relay.
ok so I hooked my multimeter up and the ground is good so I went hooked my battery up put my key in the ignition and pressed the start button I went and checked the voltage and it came back with nothing I checked every terminal and they all have nothing
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Old Today | 02:53 AM
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I think you problem lies in the clutch interlock bypass.
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Old Today | 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by ARSON2GETU
ok so I hooked my multimeter up and the ground is good so I went hooked my battery up put my key in the ignition and pressed the start button I went and checked the voltage and it came back with nothing I checked every terminal and they all have nothing
Double check your testing method, that you had the meter set back to voltage after doing the continuity check, etc. If you saw zero voltage anywhere on that relay, then 2 sections inside the ignition switch would have to be bad or the power to the ignition switch would have to be bad. That seems low chance given the other info you have provided. Do you see voltage at the ignition switch?

Also, if you did forget to switch the meter back to voltage after testing that ground, you also may have damaged the continuity side of the meter so double check that before using that function again.
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Old Today | 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by engifineer
Double check your testing method, that you had the meter set back to voltage after doing the continuity check, etc. If you saw zero voltage anywhere on that relay, then 2 sections inside the ignition switch would have to be bad or the power to the ignition switch would have to be bad. That seems low chance given the other info you have provided. Do you see voltage at the ignition switch?

Also, if you did forget to switch the meter back to voltage after testing that ground, you also may have damaged the continuity side of the meter so double check that before using that function again.
I see voltage at the ignition switch and I remembered to switch it over to voltage but I tested the multimeter anyways and it works
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