fnt cas both sides 5*
fnt rt cam 1.5* or 1*30'
fnt lt cam 1.5*
fnt toe 1.5mm in total-even split

rear rt cam 2*
rear lt cam 2*
Toe IN 4.4mm total-even split

Car handles more neutral, with less throttle steer, more high speed stability(80-100mph sweeping turns), and a little more slow speed twitchyness(20-35mph transitions)but nothing to cry about

NOTICE the rear toe in WAS 10mm in before changed to 4.4
the large toe in measurement caused the rear to feel less stable at high speeds in the turns, say if a bump came along. Thats why the car is more stable now at speed. When the rear sus is compressed the rear toes in to reduce oversteer but to much initial toe will make the back end a little jumpy. I reduced front caster to compensate for more camber - when you turn the front wheels more caster turns into camber, so thats something else to thik about depending on your cornering speed.

 

FRONT:
-1.5

 

As currently aligned:

Front Camber: L=-1.0* R=-1.0*
Front Toe In: 0.00"
Front Caster: L=5.8* R=5.7*

Rear Camber: L=-2.0* R=-2.0*
Rear Toe-in: 0.25"


My next alignment:

Front Camber: L=-1.2

 

This is my daily driver (65%), autox(5%) and track car(30%). stock wheels, a034r or ra-1 rubber.

CURRENT ALIGNMENT
front camber: -1.3 -1.3
front caster: 4.4 4.5
front toe OUT (thanks Mike for the tip): .04 .05

rear camber: -2.4 -2.4
rear toe: .23 .22

PREVIOUS ALIGNMENT
front camber: -1.2 -1.2
front caster: 5.4 5.5
front toe: .01 .01

rear camber: -2.2 -2.3
rear toe: .18 .21

 

FRONT
Camber -1.0, -1.0
Caster 5.5, 5.6
Toe 0.0
REAR
Camber -2.0, -2.0
Toe .20, .20; .4 total

 

Front Camber negative 1.90
Rear Camber negative 1.70
Caster stock F&R
Front Toe 1/8" - 1/4" out
Rear Toe 0"
Tires TOYO RA-1 205/55-16 Front (7.7" width) 245/45-16 rear (9.5" width)
Height, lowered .75" front .60" Rear (H&R Sport Springs)

I constantly play with the camber, I have the smartcamber tool.

Sidenote:
H&R Sport springs to stock shocks. I been quite happy with these springs. I've had them for a year and half now. At first, the ride is more comfortable but they will settle and make the ride rougher. The performance is better than stock. A lot less dive and squat, less roll, little or no wallowing over rises, bumps, turns etc. H&R seem to have gotten the spring rates just right for aggressive sport driving.

Correct me if I am wrong, but here's my theory. Putting progressive springs on digressive shocks would cause the following.

As the suspension compresses the lower rates of the progressive spring allows the suspension to compress at the fast rate. The digressive shock would in turn allow the shock to compress at the fast rate. As the suspension compresses further, the spring rate increases thus slowing the rate of compression, the digressive shock would in turn supplement the slower piston rate by a stiffer damping rate. So what happens is that the suspension is only allowed to compress to a certian point at a fast rate and is slowed down accordingly. It will bottom out at a much slower rate. Which I believe is key, the change in suspension geometry is slowed down to a point, that it becomes preditable.

 

Some have more camber in the front some have more in the rear. Why the diff?

 

More negative camber in the front is supposed to decrease understeer. More negative camber in the rear is supposed to decrease oversteer. I guess it depends on your driving style.

 

To many variables, there's no oneway about it. As for me, those camber settings were derived from tire wear patterns and tire pyrometers. My goal was to maximize the contact patch when cornering. Toe settings maybe more effective in adjusting over/understeer. Then again, camber does affect over/understeer as well.

 

I drive the car on nice days and during track events. I run Toyo Proxes RA1s all the time! (tread wear rating - 50!)

Up front:
.75 degrees neg camber
6 degrees castor
O toe

Out back:
1.5 degrees neg camber
1/4" total toe in

Tires wear even, car handles great.