Post your Alignment
#43
Thanks Brian. The UK's settings are at the top of my list of potential improvements. I'm looking out the window at snow, but I suspect and hope some of our owners in the warmer climates will give these new specs a go and provide feedback.
#44
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Location: Los Angeles
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I've tried almost every setting. I just had my car aligned yester day by West End Alignment and had him do the most aggressive set up I've tried yet:
Front camber -2 degrees (previously -1.75)
Front Toe-Out 1/8 (previously about straight)
Caster +6 (same)
Rear camber -3 degrees (previously -2.25)
Rear Toe-In 1/4 (previously 1/8).
I'm running Hoosiers on the track. Most people won't be able to get these settings; my car is weird and allows for these extremes of camber. I can get up to 2.25 negative camber in the front.
Can't wait to see how it works with the Hoosiers this weekend.
Front camber -2 degrees (previously -1.75)
Front Toe-Out 1/8 (previously about straight)
Caster +6 (same)
Rear camber -3 degrees (previously -2.25)
Rear Toe-In 1/4 (previously 1/8).
I'm running Hoosiers on the track. Most people won't be able to get these settings; my car is weird and allows for these extremes of camber. I can get up to 2.25 negative camber in the front.
Can't wait to see how it works with the Hoosiers this weekend.
#45
Registered User
Hey guys, just for giggles, get down on your knees and check to position of the adjusting bolts.
You can have the same alignment specs(at rest) but very different handling!
brb, with a diagram explanation.
You can have the same alignment specs(at rest) but very different handling!
brb, with a diagram explanation.
#46
Registered User
Here:
OEM, all bolts should be in the upper position, but sometimes they get around . . .
Basically if you want the most toe action, adjust the main arm eccentric to the upper location and the toe eccentric to the lower.
In contrast if you want less toe action, then do the opposite, however these changes also affect your camber.
I would suggest if your car is lowered and/or has stiffer springs, to position the main arm eccentric in the lower position and the toe eccentric in the upper, this would compensate a bit for the changed geometry. This setting would deliver more camber action with less toe, with a lowered stance toe is magnified so it needs reduction. Also the camber action is reduced because of less travel, so that is increased by this setting.
If anyone has the suspension arms out and can measure centers and subframe mounting locations relative to each other, I could give you all precise numbers.
The lower position of the toe adjustment could result in a couple mm more toe than the upper position under the same load.
OEM, all bolts should be in the upper position, but sometimes they get around . . .
Basically if you want the most toe action, adjust the main arm eccentric to the upper location and the toe eccentric to the lower.
In contrast if you want less toe action, then do the opposite, however these changes also affect your camber.
I would suggest if your car is lowered and/or has stiffer springs, to position the main arm eccentric in the lower position and the toe eccentric in the upper, this would compensate a bit for the changed geometry. This setting would deliver more camber action with less toe, with a lowered stance toe is magnified so it needs reduction. Also the camber action is reduced because of less travel, so that is increased by this setting.
If anyone has the suspension arms out and can measure centers and subframe mounting locations relative to each other, I could give you all precise numbers.
The lower position of the toe adjustment could result in a couple mm more toe than the upper position under the same load.
#49
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finally got my first REAL alighnment; i guess it was a LITTLE OVERDUE!
BEFORE:
RIGHT LEFT
FRONT camber -0.8 -1.5
toe in 1/8
caster around 6
REAR camber -1.4 -1.7
toe in 9/16(sic)!!!
i've driven Laguna Seca, SOW, Buttonwillow, and Sears Point on this set up......and lived to post about it.......woohoo!!!!!
CURRENT:
FRONT camber -2.25 -2.25
total toe 0
caster 7 7
REAR camber -2.0 -2.0
toe in 1/4
Sphincter says pillow biting feather puffer, er, i meant there appears to be a TAD! of improvement after a brief foray via stunt caynon and associated malibu connecting ribbons. Except for a massage with hand finish, that was the best spent 75 clams hoisted out of my wallet in god knows when.
BEFORE:
RIGHT LEFT
FRONT camber -0.8 -1.5
toe in 1/8
caster around 6
REAR camber -1.4 -1.7
toe in 9/16(sic)!!!
i've driven Laguna Seca, SOW, Buttonwillow, and Sears Point on this set up......and lived to post about it.......woohoo!!!!!
CURRENT:
FRONT camber -2.25 -2.25
total toe 0
caster 7 7
REAR camber -2.0 -2.0
toe in 1/4
Sphincter says pillow biting feather puffer, er, i meant there appears to be a TAD! of improvement after a brief foray via stunt caynon and associated malibu connecting ribbons. Except for a massage with hand finish, that was the best spent 75 clams hoisted out of my wallet in god knows when.
#50
Originally posted by mstw
What does toe (+,-) setting do to the handling?
What does caster (+, -) do to the handling?
Whats the term for the different angle between the front and rear?
Thanks
What does toe (+,-) setting do to the handling?
What does caster (+, -) do to the handling?
Whats the term for the different angle between the front and rear?
Thanks
http://www.howstuffworks.com/framed.htm?pa...ire%2Balignment