Problem with Koni SHock
Well I figured out what the problem is, but I not really sure how to fix it. The problem is nothing related to the shock, the shock is fine.
I took the car for a spin, everything was fine, then I hit a dip in the road which compressed the suspension, then I heard the clunk again from the right front corner. Got home, and once again the right front corner is a quarter inch lower than the left side. Now im puzzled.
So I begin taking the assembly apart again. I start with the bolt that holds the shock to the Lower A arm. Now remember the whole assy is now sitting a quarter inch lower than the left side. I go to take the rear bolt off the upper a arm, and I heard the same exact clunking noise, and then the assy drops a quarter inch. It appears the upper a arm is binding up when it gets compressed. So now I have no idea what to do. I torqued everything to specs as indicated. For the upper a arms, the torque spec was 75.9 ft lbs.
I need an expert at this point. Should I lube up the bushings, or the bolt before I install it. HELP!!! The left side was torqued to the same exact specs and its fine. THe problem is only to the rear bolt on the upper a arm.
I took the car for a spin, everything was fine, then I hit a dip in the road which compressed the suspension, then I heard the clunk again from the right front corner. Got home, and once again the right front corner is a quarter inch lower than the left side. Now im puzzled.
So I begin taking the assembly apart again. I start with the bolt that holds the shock to the Lower A arm. Now remember the whole assy is now sitting a quarter inch lower than the left side. I go to take the rear bolt off the upper a arm, and I heard the same exact clunking noise, and then the assy drops a quarter inch. It appears the upper a arm is binding up when it gets compressed. So now I have no idea what to do. I torqued everything to specs as indicated. For the upper a arms, the torque spec was 75.9 ft lbs.
I need an expert at this point. Should I lube up the bushings, or the bolt before I install it. HELP!!! The left side was torqued to the same exact specs and its fine. THe problem is only to the rear bolt on the upper a arm.
I think I found the answer, I need to load the suspension before tightening the upper A arm bolts. Going to go try that now.
According to what I just read, I need to load the right front corner suspension using a jack, then tighten all the bolts to spec. Cant hurt to try. It makes sense, if I torque it under no load, then its bound to bind. But it does not explain why only the right side did it. Any idea's
According to what I just read, I need to load the right front corner suspension using a jack, then tighten all the bolts to spec. Cant hurt to try. It makes sense, if I torque it under no load, then its bound to bind. But it does not explain why only the right side did it. Any idea's
Well I just finished preloading the suspension. I got this from another thread.
Front suspension:
Flange nuts that attach shock asembly to car (upper most nuts that stick into engine bay) - 49Nm/ 36lbf-ft
Damper bottom where bottom of shock bolts to lower a-arm: 64Nm / 47lbf-ft
Upper arm bolts: 103Nm / 75.9lbf-ft
Rear suspension:
Flange bolt at bottom of damper (the bolt that goes through the bottom of the upside down 'U'): 64Nm / 47lbf-ft
Upper arm bolts (if you touched them): 132Nm / 97.6lbf-ft
This is what it says in the service manual: First install all the suspension components and lightly tighten bolts and a nut, then place jack under the lower arm, and raise the suspension to load the weight before fully tightening to the specified torque specs.
I think this should be added to the DIY shock and spring install below.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...0&#entry5868135
If you take apart the upper A arms, you have just let the preload off them, therefore you have to preload them again when putting it back together, this from what I understand can lead to handling problems and the problem I had which is the bushing's binding up.
Front suspension:
Flange nuts that attach shock asembly to car (upper most nuts that stick into engine bay) - 49Nm/ 36lbf-ft
Damper bottom where bottom of shock bolts to lower a-arm: 64Nm / 47lbf-ft
Upper arm bolts: 103Nm / 75.9lbf-ft
Rear suspension:
Flange bolt at bottom of damper (the bolt that goes through the bottom of the upside down 'U'): 64Nm / 47lbf-ft
Upper arm bolts (if you touched them): 132Nm / 97.6lbf-ft
This is what it says in the service manual: First install all the suspension components and lightly tighten bolts and a nut, then place jack under the lower arm, and raise the suspension to load the weight before fully tightening to the specified torque specs.
I think this should be added to the DIY shock and spring install below.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...0&#entry5868135
If you take apart the upper A arms, you have just let the preload off them, therefore you have to preload them again when putting it back together, this from what I understand can lead to handling problems and the problem I had which is the bushing's binding up.
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Butch777
Archived Member S2000 Classifieds and For Sale
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Jul 5, 2010 03:13 PM



