I had problems with my ap1 after installing VAFC II.


Before the install.
-The car has problems with idling.
-And there was also a CEL.
-Changed the Coolant Temperature Sensor,Cleaned the IAC valve, But the idling was still around 2k rpm.
-Even though the CEL came off after replacing the Coolant sensor, the idling didn't come back to normal.

-When freewheeling from a gear to neutral it only go down to 2k rpm and only go down when the car was at full stop and it fell at 300 rpm. The car almost stalls.



After the VAFC install (which took the shop almost the whole day just to install).
-The idling won't go down to normal, It stays only at about 2k rpm and sometimes goes even higher at almost 2,400 rpm. Temperature has only 1bar.
And the limiter cuts off at 3k rpm.

After removing the VAFC II,
-The idling went back to its problem before the install,Idling does now go down, The 3k cut off was gone,


I just want to ask if it's because of bad connections/wirings of the VAFC to the ECU or maybe because I have problems with idling before the install of the vafc that made it more worse?

Hope you guys could make some very helpful inputs. Thanks !

 

Its the wiring, if you wire it wrong it will screw up the ECU. You should have gotten a plug and play harness for like $150 and would not require splicing of the ECU wires.

But...then again it would be hard to say since you had a pre existing problem prior to the install.

 

Vaccum Leak. Look for one/ change your PCV etc.

Worked for my camaro, did the same thing- high idle, especially @ speed, sometimes stalls,

 

i dont get why you would pay a shady shop to chop up your wiring instead of buying a plug and play harness and "installing" it yourself

 

Why would you decide to install a VAFCII when the car ran like crap before?

That just further complicates the running like crap.

 

agreed!

 

probably vac leak but you said the idle does drop low when the car stops. get the car to run correctly before installing the VAFC. how did you remove the VAFC, did you just unplug it? there are two wires that were cut that you need to reconnect, not just unplugging the VAFC.

 

I had the CEL diagnosed while the VAFC was still installed.

-And it showed the code 6,7, 10 Coolant temp sensor, IAT, TPS,


After removing the VAFC

-The CEL now only threw code 60, which is the air pump.
-Code 6,7,10 was gone.
-And now the idling was back to its state prior to the install of the vafc,
-Also when a cold start,
The idling goes up and down. 1k rpm to 1,3k rpm, and it looks like someone is pressing the gas.
-Some misfire also noted..
-Hesitation/kangaroing at 1st gear low rpm..
- The temp bar now reaches 3 bars( normal temp). As only to 1bar before..
What seems to be the problem?



Why I did not use a PLUG and PLAY?

-The shop had it installed by spilicing the wires because I do live here in the Philippines and there's no available plug and play that can be sold seperately here,unlike you guys do in the US,
The vafc which I bought 2nd hand also didn't come with the socket/harness..

Thanks for answering guys!
Now the problem is the Air pump code 60 that the CEL is throwing.
But there was still the whizzing sound after several seconds of starting the car which I believe is the Air Pump is still functioning and its not broken?
I have also checked the Air pump fuse (7.5), Air Pump connections. (From the intake tube).


Tnx S2ki!!

 

could be a stuck thermostat, which means the coolant wasn't circulating. probably why the temp gauge didn't show the right temp and the hot coolant not getting to the IAC (idle air control) value. it thinks your engine is still cold and idle high.

 

Phillipines is still able to get mail right?

The idle "surging" may be an IACV problem