I seem to be having a problem with the 3/8 pipe that screws into the tap in the oil pan on one end and into the 90 degree piece that comes with the kit on the other end. This is the second time I've had a problem with it. Both times I've noticed that there was oil leaking. When I'd get under the car to unscrew the pipe, the end that fits into the oil pan would break right off leaving half stuck inside the pan. Both times I've had to take off the oil pan and hammer the broken piece out. The second time happened yesterday. I already got it fixed and everything but it really is a pain in the ass having to take the oil pan off. Is there a reason for why this keeps on happening and what I can do to prevent it? Thanks.

 

Do you have the option of going to a high-end fitting (like Earl's) and having the piece welded at the oil pan?

-YS

 

I didn't have that same problem, but I did have a problem w/ the 90 degree fitting itself. It would leak pretty bad. I tried to use sealant on it (even though it says not too), and it still leaked. So I called vortech and said that I never got that piece. So week later I got a new one in the mail and to my suprise it was about twice as thick and weighed twice as much. A much more heavy duty piece. Have not had a problem since . Maybe you too got a weak piece. But if you say you already replaced it once, then I dont know why that would be happening.

Like YS said, you always have the option of having it welded to the pan.

 

This won't help you but maybe for those doing future installs.
When I ground down the fins on the oil pan, I elected to NOT grind them all the way flush with the side of the oilpan casing. I left approx. 2-3 mm of the fins on the pan. This provided better support for the fitting and gave the hole more thread. I have not had any problems to date (3 months now).

 

I figured if a little is good then..... so I added material between the fins and it has lots of threads .....

 

Is there a way to just ditch the Vortech peice and use something like the Comptech that uses the oil drain plug spot instead?

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Sideways
[B]I figured if a little is good then..... so I added material between the fins and it has lots of threads .....

 

I followed xvipers' advice and left some fin for support and have not had any leaks at all. The Comptech set up sucks IMO, as this is an unpressurized oil return line and the Comptech set up it has to make its way up into the oil drain plug and bottom fill the oil pan! I also think their setup interfers with oil changes. I have not owned a Comptech, but this is info I have gathered when comparing them for purchase. I think the Vortech is the correct way, you just have to use a lot of care when tapping the pan.

 

I agree that the return should be into the top of the oil pan. However, I haven't heard of any issues with the way the oil is returned. I guess I would also question how the return line is unpressurized if the supercharger oil feed line is pressurized. That is, if you are putting 40 PSI of oil pressure into the snail unit itself and it is returning out of the snail unit, how can there be no pressure? The feed line is smaller than the return line so the pressure wouldn't be as high, but there has to be some pressure.

Oil changes are pretty easy. The fact that you disconnect the hose from the fitting means that there is no wear and tear on the oil pan itself. If you wear out the AN fitting in the oil pan, you can just replace it. I do my oil changes after every track event (on a lift). But, if I had to, I can reach the fitting on the hose from above the car - not really an issue.

-YS

 

I'm not sure if the return line is pressurized after the 40psi in the feed line going into the snail. The question is, the oil in the return line hits a sea of oil in the bottom of the pan, how much pressure of oil is in the snail?? Supposely, that's how the snail start breaking seal. It's doesn't always happen, but it happens.