AusS2000

The prop shaft is held in with 6 bolts front and rear. On the AP1 the rears are quite soft material and prone to stripping when removed. I believe the AP2 is different.

My question is, what should I replace the rear bolts with? Are they the same length as the fronts (so I could just buy extra fronts)? Are they the same specs as AP2? Or can I just replace with high grade bolts from a fastener supplier?

And why are they made out of quite soft brass like material to begin with?

hypforlife32

i was just very careful with mine. they do better with a quick snapping force just to break loose. i got all mine out quiet easily. just kinda fudged one up a little bit but got one from puddy dad just incase for reinstall. i would talk to him about those bolts as well. he probably could reccomened a better bolt(stronger).

Suzuka_Joe

they are under $2 for each bolt at the dealer. replace with all new ones. thats what i recently did when i changed my clutch

Suzuka_Joe

ap2 is different

AusS2000

Maybe in the US Joe.

If I remember correctly in Aus they are $8 and probably a 3 week wait. For a crappy soft metal M8 bolt I can pick up from a fastener shop for a few bucks.

AusS2000

Cheers. That's all my questions answered.

I'll drop into Honda this afternoon and if they have them in stock I will buy them. Otherwise I'm off to the fastener shop.

Suzuka_Joe

gotta pay to play.


i forgot you weren't state side

Slows2k

I don't think the AP1 bolts are inherently "soft". I think the small internal hex size coupled with the difficulty getting a decent hex driver clear access without hitting the propshaft is the problem.

All fasteners under the car will take more breakaway torque to loosen them, compared the originally installed torque values.

Combine that with limited tool access = stripped internal hex.

I use a Snap-on 1/4 drive hex socket and ratchet with another wrench doubled up for more leverage on AP1 bolts. Unless someone else has previously chewed the bolts up, I don't have a problem removing them.

Sears, Matco, Mac, and all of cheaper Hex drivers I have found will strip the internal hex of the bolts.

Slows2k

Corrosion is a nasty thing. Every prop shaft bolt I've removed has had some on it. Which makes removal even more difficult. Combine that with the normal heat cyvles = much higher force needed to loosen than originally tighten.

I've had axle nuts (36mm) that required over 800ft lbs of force to remove. That originally torqued to 180-220 ft lbs.

AusS2000

Ok, got them off. Only stripped one but that was showing signs of damage from the last time I removed the tail shaft.

I will replace all.

Curious thing though. When I disconnected the tail shaft some diff oil leaked out. I'm guessing my front seal is a bit leaky.