propellar/drive shaft alignment query
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propellar/drive shaft alignment query
Hi, I wondering whether someone with technical knowledge could please offer some advice on how to reinstall a propellar shaft correctly after its been removed? My mechanic marked it and reinstalled it but I have a suspicion it may not be aligned correctly as the tech pin holes don't seem to line up on the front drive shaft near where the 6 hex bolts reside, however the rear tech pin holes line up in the rear section of the propellar shaft? I heard from a honda technician some time ago these tech pin holes should be lined up as thats the factory oem position but I dont think theres any mention of this in the honda workshop manual?
Could you please offer your thoughts as I believe this is causing the vibration im hearing on acceleration from the transmission tunnell area that I've noticed when getting my car back.
Thanks
Could you please offer your thoughts as I believe this is causing the vibration im hearing on acceleration from the transmission tunnell area that I've noticed when getting my car back.
Thanks
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The service manual shows to mark the propeller shaft and the companion flanges on the trans and diff before removal. There are also white paint marks on the propeller shaft and flanges for alighnment purposes if the shaft is not original to the car (replacement part). If your mechanic marked it and reinstalled it according to his marks, it should be right.
Was he working on it because of the vibration or is this a new problem? It is possible to install the propeller shaft backwards causing vibrations that get increasingly worse as your speed increases. The bolts at each end are different, I'm unsure but it maybe possible to to mix them up causing one end of the shaft to be impossible to torque down properly. There are three "washers" at either end that are cressent shaped and link between two of the bolts each. If one or more of these were missing, it would cause an out of balance condition.
I hope any of this helped.
Was he working on it because of the vibration or is this a new problem? It is possible to install the propeller shaft backwards causing vibrations that get increasingly worse as your speed increases. The bolts at each end are different, I'm unsure but it maybe possible to to mix them up causing one end of the shaft to be impossible to torque down properly. There are three "washers" at either end that are cressent shaped and link between two of the bolts each. If one or more of these were missing, it would cause an out of balance condition.
I hope any of this helped.
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The prop shaft was removed due to removing the transmission to have it rebuilt. the prop shaft is the original one that came with the car...he did tell me he marked up the prop shaft before removal as per the workshop manual but the front tech pin marks on the prop shaft dont appear to be lined up like the rear ones?
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Originally Posted by SgtB,Dec 12 2010, 01:26 PM
If it's not vibrating don't worry about it.
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As long as the shaft is installed properly as far as front to rear, the timing of the bolt holes does not matter.
Match marking of shafts originally started because of rust. If a flange has an open hole, the driveshaft will have a rust "bump" where the hole is. If the driveshaft is re-installed from its original position, the rust bump would sit on a flat, and it would not mount flush.
This also holds true for brake rotors.
But with the s2k, driveshaft matchmarking is not important. If you have a vibration, there is a slight change that re-timing the driveshaft could cure it, but i highly doubt it.
See if your vibration only happens during accel, and goes away on decel.
Match marking of shafts originally started because of rust. If a flange has an open hole, the driveshaft will have a rust "bump" where the hole is. If the driveshaft is re-installed from its original position, the rust bump would sit on a flat, and it would not mount flush.
This also holds true for brake rotors.
But with the s2k, driveshaft matchmarking is not important. If you have a vibration, there is a slight change that re-timing the driveshaft could cure it, but i highly doubt it.
See if your vibration only happens during accel, and goes away on decel.
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Originally Posted by Billman250,Dec 12 2010, 07:55 PM
As long as the shaft is installed properly as far as front to rear, the timing of the bolt holes does not matter.
Match marking of shafts originally started because of rust. If a flange has an open hole, the driveshaft will have a rust "bump" where the hole is. If the driveshaft is re-installed from its original position, the rust bump would sit on a flat, and it would not mount flush.
This also holds true for brake rotors.
But with the s2k, driveshaft matchmarking is not important. If you have a vibration, there is a slight change that re-timing the driveshaft could cure it, but i highly doubt it.
See if your vibration only happens during accel, and goes away on decel.
Match marking of shafts originally started because of rust. If a flange has an open hole, the driveshaft will have a rust "bump" where the hole is. If the driveshaft is re-installed from its original position, the rust bump would sit on a flat, and it would not mount flush.
This also holds true for brake rotors.
But with the s2k, driveshaft matchmarking is not important. If you have a vibration, there is a slight change that re-timing the driveshaft could cure it, but i highly doubt it.
See if your vibration only happens during accel, and goes away on decel.
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Originally Posted by Billman250,Dec 13 2010, 05:32 AM
Re-timing=bolting it in a different clock position.