Pulling Head - While we're in there?
#1
Pulling Head - While we're in there?
I had a misfire on cyl. 4 and found that I'm losing compression through the exhaust valves. Head will be going out to Inline Pro to get refreshed and replace anything that needs replacing. My car is an 06.
What else should I address while I have the head off? I'm looking for things like vacuum/coolant hoses around the manifold that others have found going bad, etc. Do exhaust studs get re-used or replaced?
What else should I address while I have the head off? I'm looking for things like vacuum/coolant hoses around the manifold that others have found going bad, etc. Do exhaust studs get re-used or replaced?
#2
Obviously check condition of cyl walls. Clean off carbon buildup on piston tops.
#3
I replaced all the heater/coolant hoses I could get my hands on while the IM was off.
Thermostat.
Water pump.
Some of the vacuum hoses.
Did a billman TCT.
Replaced any broken or missing wiring loom clips.
Thermostat.
Water pump.
Some of the vacuum hoses.
Did a billman TCT.
Replaced any broken or missing wiring loom clips.
#4
It would be a good time to upgrade head studs if you ever plan on forced induction. Even replacing studs is a good idea as the clamping force is much higher than oem torque to yield bolts. Oem bolts can be reused as long as they measure certain specifications. I’ll check the service manual tomorrow and see what the specs are.
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SkidPad (05-26-2022)
#6
hmmm I don't think it makes sense that the factory bolts are TTY (torque to yield).
The factory bolts are reusable as long as they are not yielded. This is why you measure their diameter to see if they can be re-used.
If the head has lifted and they stretch...they'll be "necked" and you need new bolts.
TTY bolts aren't reusable. They will yield when tightened and stretch out at a prescribed point.
I chose to buy new factory head bolts. That way, I could use the factory manual's torque spec.
But yes...for FI, you'd want to use bolts with higher clamping force and clamping capability.
The factory bolts are reusable as long as they are not yielded. This is why you measure their diameter to see if they can be re-used.
If the head has lifted and they stretch...they'll be "necked" and you need new bolts.
TTY bolts aren't reusable. They will yield when tightened and stretch out at a prescribed point.
I chose to buy new factory head bolts. That way, I could use the factory manual's torque spec.
But yes...for FI, you'd want to use bolts with higher clamping force and clamping capability.
#7
Thank you for that!
For anyone with experience doing this... Looking through the process in the manual, I'm seeing the note about using a sealant around the chain case.
For that purpose, is there anything special about the Honda product such that other products should not be used? Is it necessary to order the Honda part # specified here (08718-0009) or is any gasket sealer fine?
For anyone with experience doing this... Looking through the process in the manual, I'm seeing the note about using a sealant around the chain case.
For that purpose, is there anything special about the Honda product such that other products should not be used? Is it necessary to order the Honda part # specified here (08718-0009) or is any gasket sealer fine?
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#8
Thank you for that!
For anyone with experience doing this... Looking through the process in the manual, I'm seeing the note about using a sealant around the chain case.
For that purpose, is there anything special about the Honda product such that other products should not be used? Is it necessary to order the Honda part # specified here (08718-0009) or is any gasket sealer fine?
For anyone with experience doing this... Looking through the process in the manual, I'm seeing the note about using a sealant around the chain case.
For that purpose, is there anything special about the Honda product such that other products should not be used? Is it necessary to order the Honda part # specified here (08718-0009) or is any gasket sealer fine?
#9
^Disregard. At first, I couldn't find a tube of it. I bought it and will give it to the shop. Still wondering about exhaust manifold nuts. Are people re-using them or replacing?
I've got a TCT to go in and am deliberating on the waterpump. I really haven't seen any instances of one of those going bad. I may save the money on that and try to do a new OEM radiator sooner than later. Last thing I want to do is have all this done and overheat it due to a 16 y/o radiator.
I've got a TCT to go in and am deliberating on the waterpump. I really haven't seen any instances of one of those going bad. I may save the money on that and try to do a new OEM radiator sooner than later. Last thing I want to do is have all this done and overheat it due to a 16 y/o radiator.
#10
^Disregard. At first, I couldn't find a tube of it. I bought it and will give it to the shop. Still wondering about exhaust manifold nuts. Are people re-using them or replacing?
I've got a TCT to go in and am deliberating on the waterpump. I really haven't seen any instances of one of those going bad. I may save the money on that and try to do a new OEM radiator sooner than later. Last thing I want to do is have all this done and overheat it due to a 16 y/o radiator.
I've got a TCT to go in and am deliberating on the waterpump. I really haven't seen any instances of one of those going bad. I may save the money on that and try to do a new OEM radiator sooner than later. Last thing I want to do is have all this done and overheat it due to a 16 y/o radiator.