D1sclaimer

I'm in the process of pulling my engine and replacing it with a "new" long block. Currently I have the cylinder head and transmission off of the engine in the car. I will be pulling out the short block and putting in the long block through the top. This is the first time pulling an engine so sorry if this seems like a silly question.

Where at are the best places to bolt up the chains for the engine hoist/crane? I figured buying a load leveler would help out so I think I will buy one of those. For the short block, I was thinking of using the stock head bolts and washers. For when I put the long block in, I was thinking of buying some nice bolts from the hardware store and putting them into the exhaust manifold and intake manifold bolt holes with washers. Sound like a bad or good idea?

Billman250

If the head is off, use 2 head bolts and thread them right into the two center head bolts holes. This is the strongest point to lift from as is balanced.

Stratocaster

I don't think you can install the long block from the top. The manual wants the head off and I assume that is for clearance. I have never tired it. I think billman leaves the head on and has a custom spark plug mounted bolts to pull the motor. Personally I drop the engine and tranny out the bottom. It is just faster. But then I have access to a lift

D1sclaimer

In my service manual, it shows removal/installation through the top with the head still on the block. Page "5-6."

Upon further inspection, the low quality pictures in the service manual look like they attach hooks to an exhaust stud/bolt and the intake manifold to pull the engine.

Billman250

The factory lift points for a complete engine:

-A threaded hole in between the exhaust manifold and the VTEC solonoid

-a threaded hole on the back of the intake manifold, it points toward the rear of the car.

A complete engine can be lifted out the top, as long as the trans is removed first.

Billman250

In the beginning I used to use these two holes....note the steel bracket I made for the hole, so the chain does not scratch the valve cover:

Billman250

I pull the engine completely assembled, and install it it the same way. After trans removal, I can have the engine out in 15 minutes. I think it makes the job super easy, as you can work with the wiring and hoses out in the light and be sure everything is routed properly.

If any coolant line is touching anything, vibration will wear right through it.

skool u

Super helpful as I was asking how to do this not too long ago. Does anynoe have any photos of how to unbolt the tranny from the engine? I'm awaiting my manual but I would love some high res photos.

Clark

Resurrecting old-ish thread. I pulled my engine like this a couple of times even with the trans in place There is enough room in the front to get it off the input shaft.

I am about to put one back in for the first time though and wonder if anyone has experience & can comment on whether do the reverse, or if I should just take out the trans.

I'm inclined to not remove the trans having it still in place and knowing it can be done (enough room in front and easily enough room to rotate the engine around. Though if one or more people tell me the horror story of a day wasted and wishing they'd just drop the trans I'll reconsider (and order some of those bolts. I hate those f@#kers, and this is an '00 with the trans never out).

Billman250

If the engine is out, how is the trans in the car? Theres nothing left holding but the rear mount with 3 bolts, so why leave it in and make it difficult?

R&R engine with the trans out is fastest, and easiest.