Q regarding EGT with FI
I have a few questions for those with FI and EGT gauges.
1. Did you mount the thermocouple in a primary header tube, such as #4 or sample from all 4 cylinders in the collector?
2. What was your normal operating range?
3. Any brand preference of gauge Greddy, Apex, Autometer, Blitz etc.
4. Or should I forget about EGT and buy a wideband O2?
I would like something that has a decent lifespan, I don't want to have to replace O2's or thermocouples every few months. I have some experience with EGT's on 2 stoke shifter karts, which needed to be replaced twice a year.
TIA
1. Did you mount the thermocouple in a primary header tube, such as #4 or sample from all 4 cylinders in the collector?
2. What was your normal operating range?
3. Any brand preference of gauge Greddy, Apex, Autometer, Blitz etc.
4. Or should I forget about EGT and buy a wideband O2?
I would like something that has a decent lifespan, I don't want to have to replace O2's or thermocouples every few months. I have some experience with EGT's on 2 stoke shifter karts, which needed to be replaced twice a year.
TIA
Vortech is on the way. I'm mainly interested in keeping an eye on overall engine health, Not tuning by EGT. The nearest dyno with a wideband is 120 miles away so a turbo is impractical for me.
If you want overall health of your motor, get:
1. Oil pressure gauge
2. Boost
3. some kind of a/f, doesn't always have wideband. A greddy unit is fine.
4. Egt if you really have money to blow.
I would chose top 3.
1. Oil pressure gauge
2. Boost
3. some kind of a/f, doesn't always have wideband. A greddy unit is fine.
4. Egt if you really have money to blow.
I would chose top 3.
I'm already equipped with H20 temp and Oil pressure, boost gauge has been ordered. I'm debating EGT vs wideband. To the best of my knowledge the AF gauges that wire into the stock O2 don't have the resolution that a wideband does. You don't know how lean or rich the AF actually is. 15:1 looks the same as 20:1 on a AF gauge. I would also like to use the second 02 port in the Toda header as well.
Well, if you can spend the money, get the wide band. That is the most accurate way to detect A/F.
I have also used Greddy unit and it come with it's own high heater O2 sensor which you use that soley for the gauge. It's actually quite nice and pretty accurate.
Right now I'm using FJO unit w/ O2 sensor which cost around 600 with monitor just for AEM EMS.
I have also used Greddy unit and it come with it's own high heater O2 sensor which you use that soley for the gauge. It's actually quite nice and pretty accurate.
Right now I'm using FJO unit w/ O2 sensor which cost around 600 with monitor just for AEM EMS.
I've got an fjo for sale. Worked great for me but I need money.
http://cgi.aol.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBay...gory=46100&rd=1
http://cgi.aol.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBay...gory=46100&rd=1
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I have defi EGT, tapped into the first 3 inches of my downpipe instead of manifold. Reads about 1250 degrees farhenheit at 75mhp @4000 never gets above 1400 degrees even at WOT @8000rpm read and aveage of 1000 to 1300 degrees.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Slows2k
[B]I'm already equipped with H20 temp and Oil pressure, boost gauge has been ordered. I'm debating EGT vs wideband. To the best of my knowledge the AF gauges that wire into the stock O2 don't have the resolution that a wideband does. You don't know how lean or rich the AF actually is.
[B]I'm already equipped with H20 temp and Oil pressure, boost gauge has been ordered. I'm debating EGT vs wideband. To the best of my knowledge the AF gauges that wire into the stock O2 don't have the resolution that a wideband does. You don't know how lean or rich the AF actually is.






